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Discussion Starter #1
Just got it in last night. I know, I know, pictures. I'll take some and post them tonight after work. Haven't shot it yet, but initial impressions are good. Welds look good. Cocking tube gap is on the small side but at least it's there. Bolt Gap is about .012" but I haven't shot it yet or measured the rollers. Bolt has not been ground down and the 53 carrier conversion looks clean. It has a maylasian SUO fcg housing and a pretty good clip job.
Ejection by hand flips cases all the way across the room. Buttcap is EXTREMELY tight. Had to pry it off with a screwdriver and hammer it back on. Came with 2 40 round aluminum mags and a mini padded rifle case.

Can't wait to shoot it. I'll post a report when i get to fire it up this weekend.


Two questions:
The carrier doesn't have those serrated "forward assist" cuts. What might this indicate about its origin?

Also, it has the half-moon shaped buffer on the back of the carrier which i suspect is spring loaded. However, i pushed that buffer against a table with all my weight (200lbs) and it never compressed. Doesn't seem like it would "buff" :) being that ridgid. Is this normal?
 

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Just got it in last night. I know, I know, pictures. I'll take some and post them tonight after work. Haven't shot it yet, but initial impressions are good. Welds look good. Cocking tube gap is on the small side but at least it's there. Bolt Gap is about .012" but I haven't shot it yet or measured the rollers. Bolt has not been ground down and the 53 carrier conversion looks clean. It has a maylasian SUO fcg housing and a pretty good clip job.
Ejection by hand flips cases all the way across the room. Buttcap is EXTREMELY tight. Had to pry it off with a screwdriver and hammer it back on. Came with 2 40 round aluminum mags and a mini padded rifle case.

Can't wait to shoot it. I'll post a report when i get to fire it up this weekend.


Two questions:
The carrier doesn't have those serrated "forward assist" cuts. What might this indicate about its origin?

Also, it has the half-moon shaped buffer on the back of the carrier which i suspect is spring loaded. However, i pushed that buffer against a table with all my weight (200lbs) and it never compressed. Doesn't seem like it would "buff" :) being that ridgid. Is this normal?
Yes. You have to put it in a vise to compress that spring.
 

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Who did you order it from?
Mine did not come with the case you mentioned. Everything on mine is as you described although, I have throughly cleaned and lubed mine and it did have quite a bit of grit in it. Action works well now that it's cleaned and lubed however, the cocking lever is a real bitch to open the action. I have not taken measurments of anything so far just cleaned and lubed it. Mine was missing a cocking tube cover and the hardware to attach it which has been requested from CIA and waiting for delivery of said.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got it from Buds although i'll never make that mistake again. Took two weeks for them to ship it even though it was in stock the whole time.
 

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I got it from Buds although i'll never make that mistake again. Took two weeks for them to ship it even though it was in stock the whole time.
Wow, you had to wait a whole 2 weeks for your gun to ship? That's horrible. It must have been at least 3 weeks before you got it. I'd never wait that long for a gun! How do they get away with that???
 

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How bout pictures? What are you waiting for!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, I ordered it on a tuesday and it arrived at my ffl the second tuesday after that. I called to cancel after the first week and they said it would be a $70 (10 percent) restock fee so I waited it out. I had actually found it cheaper in the meantime but it wasn't bad at $700 shipped. The Buds website says it will ship 3-7 business days later. They started processing the order on wednesday and counted 7 business days from that point and shipped it the next friday. REDICULOUS!


The cocking tube is canted like that because of the way they installed the tube to the receiver and left the original pin hole. The handle pin hole is all the way back into the receiver section so it had to be rotated so you could get the pin out. I can't actually see any of the weld from where they attached the CT to the receiver though so that's at least a decent grind job!

I'll get to the pics. On the way back home from picking her up tues i stopped to pick up a new clutch for my truck and have been working on that ever since. haven't had but about five minutes while waiting in the gun store to hold her.
 

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The front sight is blocked by the cocking handle when in the locked open postion. I really don't see any problem with it though as when the charging handle is locked to the rear I would not be using the sights anyway.
 

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After throughly cleaning the pistol twice and lubricating with synthetic oil / grease I had the opportunity to shoot it today. Fully expecting some minor problems after having read about these I still wasn't prepared for what followed.
Total of maybe 30+ Winchester and Federal 55 Gr. rounds fired from the standing position.

Magazine locked up well with no problems
Charged firearm as normal for an H&K
Selector on SAFE pulled trigger and as expected trigger is locked up and firearm safety is definately working.
Moved selector to fire and pulled the trigger...The C93P let out a roar sending a round downrange as anticipated,
What was not anticipated is what happened next!

Pulled the trigger for the second time and ....Nothing NaDa the hammer strikes the firing pin in the carrier moving the carrier forward about a millimeter or two and that's it.

Pull the mag place the firearm on Safe and go to work on the charging handle which was a real bear to break loose.
Finally get the charging handle pulled to the rear and locked in the verticle position, reinsert the mag and charge the firearm preparing for the next shot. Pull the trigger and the C93P again lets out a roar sending the round downrange. Pull the trigger again and again the carrier moves forward a bit and nothing.

OK, thinking that this is a new build and needs broke in I continued to do this procedure for another 30+ times. Charge the chamber, fire the round, pull the trigger ...only to have it do nothing again and again and again.

Figuring that this just needs broke in and loosened up a bit before it starts operating properly I just keep firing the pistol one shot at time from a 40 round magazine. Basically acting as a single shot bolt action pistol for the remainder of over 30 rounds I fired.

It never did get any better so after about 30 rounds I stopped and put it away. I'll clean it again and take some measurements.

One thing I did note is that the firearm never did eject a spent case as it's supposed to. Each case had to be manually ejected with a pull of the charging handle, not at all like any other H&K I fired before.
This one might need some TLC before I take it to the range again. LOL
It looks cool though. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, here's some hope for you. hkspecialist is across town from me so i usually get orders really quickly. They had #3 locking pieces in stock and i got one. (also ordered a #15 RCM lp too for comparison) The day it came in i picked up some Federal 62 grain green tip 5.56 and popped off a few rounds in the back yard. ran 100 percent. I know, i know, four rounds isn't conclusive, but I don't want to bother the neighbors too much. I'll go to the range next week and really try both locking new pieces thoroughly.

Anyway, sounds like you might have a similar short-stroking situation happening. Make sure the chamber flutes are really cleaned out, but definitely try a different locking piece.
 

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Keep us posted on which LP seems to work best.
This "Bolt action" semi-auto got old really fast. BTW the chamber flutes had been cleaned throughly but, you can bet I'm going to make sure they get some special attention before the next range day.

I might have to look into swapping out some parts to see what the problem is. Thanks.
 

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Keep us posted on which LP seems to work best.
This "Bolt action" semi-auto got old really fast. BTW the chamber flutes had been cleaned throughly but, you can bet I'm going to make sure they get some special attention before the next range day.

I might have to look into swapping out some parts to see what the problem is. Thanks.
what does your brass looklike afterword? just carbon line ? or deep gauling? i had to send a 93 back because the chamber was too tight, and the brass from mine would not eject and it was a bear to get the charging handle back after firing a round. once you got the spent brass out you could see where the case swelled up into the flues, very badly.
 

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Although mine ran great out of the box, I've had to change two things on my C93P. In an attempt to get the gun to run with my AAC 762SDN-6 can, I replaced the #8 locking piece, correct for a Malaysian HK33, with a #15, which is correct for a factory HK53. That did help somewhat but I still got FTE's every so often. It just did not eject the round and would attempt to feed another. What fixed my issues was to change the ejector lever from the long to the short model. They are supposed to interchange and either should work. But the short one did the trick. And it is a cheap item to replace and super easy to install for testing.

Does anyone know why there is a long and short ejector? Does the ejector pop up as the bolt moves rearward and actually push the side of the case to throw the case out? I get a little ding in spent cases on the side.
 

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short is factory for the 53's only. but i too had in issue with the carrier dragging. swapped the 53 style and was smooth as butter. but i also wondered why they have diff ejectors for 33 and 53 when its the same parts just a shorter barrel and diff locking piece?
 

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I just put the long ejector back in and compared them. With the bolt pulled back to where the face of the bolt is flush with the face of the ejector the long one has a .180" gap between the top of the ejector and the top of the slot in the bolt. I can push up on the long ejector in this position and feel the movement. The short ejector has almost no movement in the same position and is in a much better location while looking at the bolt face. So it's almost .180" higher on the bolt face. It fixed my issues.

Why don't they all use the short ejector? Hopefully someone who knows will chime in.
 

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What? Still no pics?
 

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I just put the long ejector back in and compared them. With the bolt pulled back to where the face of the bolt is flush with the face of the ejector the long one has a .180" gap between the top of the ejector and the top of the slot in the bolt. I can push up on the long ejector in this position and feel the movement. The short ejector has almost no movement in the same position and is in a much better location while looking at the bolt face. So it's almost .180" higher on the bolt face. It fixed my issues.

Why don't they all use the short ejector? Hopefully someone who knows will chime in.

Guessing the long ejector came with the G33 parts kit ....
 

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I imagine it did come with the G33 parts kit. But why are they interchangeable if they really do function differently? The short one would have a much larger contact area with the spent case because it moves higher into the bolt face. Thus better ejection functioning.
 
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