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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished the P7PSP. It was challenging to put it back together since I took every part and spring off. Not sure I recommend trying that unless you have another one to look at.

It was blued and rusty had tool marks. I ground off the toolmarks (that were on the sides of the trigger guard) and did it with GunKote.



www.silencertests.com
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, I did it myself. Sure it took a few hours, but it beats paying two-way Fedex and waiting a few weeks. Trust me, if it was just the $130 I would not do it myself. The refinishing people are well worth it. But the time and shipping kills me.
 

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Very nice! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

And ditto on MV's question.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I want to say that the original blue job and prep on the PSP was much inferior to my factory P7M8s. It was keeping me from liking the pistol. I had to do something.
 

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RS; Can you describe the steps you performed? I'm assuming it went something like this...

Complete disassembly of slide including sights, frame, trigger mechanism, squeeze cocking mech, down to the exploded diagram of parts.

Stripping of pre existing finish and rust and grinding of tool markings.

Refinishing all previously finished parts.

Re assembly according to exploded diagram.

Question: How did you strip the finish off if you do so?

Thanks!

M
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I took the sights off. I took everything off including the trigger and the grip parts. I left the take-down button in place. I did not remove the barrel but masked it.

I stoned the took marks off with an India stone. Took 10 minutes or so.

Normally one would grit blast with 120 Aluminum Oxide. I did that for the magazines and some of the lower. I did not really grit blast the upper because I did not want to erode the markings. I painted right over the blueing.

Ideally one would now Parkerize or use KG Coatings K-Phos. I skipped this. This means my finish will not adhere as well as possible. But hey, if you coat stainless steel, it is the same deal.

I cleaned it in water and then paint thinner. Don't touch it as you will add oils. Wear latex gloves. Buy the powder free kind or else you will leave Talc on it.

I heat in a toaster to 100+ degrees. Pick up parts with Bamboo tongs and spray. Paint evaporates on contact and no runs. Don't spray too heavy or it will get glossy.

Then bake in toaster at 300-325 for 1 hour.

The exploded diagram helps to put it back together, but a second pistol helps even more. Taking photos would be a good idea if you do not have a second pistol.
 

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BTT. There are a lot of new members that may get something out of this.
 
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