[74orange]

delete

 

[CB_HK]

Hey there.

I'm not sure exactly how to answer your question since I've never handled a Wilcox LAM, but I'm almost certain that if no one here can answer your question (which I doubt, I'm sure someone around these parts will know the answer) you might want to give Wilcox a call and ask them for technical help. I imagine if the unit is close to new they shouldn't have a problem giving you a hand.

Also, if you don't mind my asking, I live in California as well and I'm curious as to how you lucked out and got a Mark 23. If you're willing to say, please let me know... I've always wanted one.

 

[74orange]

delete

 

[CB_HK]

Wow... that's a bit of a "luxury tax" if I do say so.

Regardless, it's pretty cool that you managed to get one into the PRK. Congrats on that, and believe me, if I had that much laying around I might just go ahead and get one too. But since that's not the case I'll continue dreaming.

Good luck with Wilcox, I'm sure that with a little coaxing they'll give you a hand. Be sure to let us know how it goes. Oh, and might I add, let's see some pics if you feel so inclined.

 

[kattman]

I got caught up in the "had to have" WILCOX stuff when it first came to my attention ???years ago, probably around 98 or so. Got it all through CFI. I have the LIGHT and the visible LAM units with mount for a USP. Sold a M23 mount a couple years ago because I didn't think I'd ever fire the weapon anyway, but still have the USP mount NIB. I also picked up a couple of WILCOX's NIGHTSTALKER POWER-GRIP PLUS vertical fore grip units that have the light and visible laser combo with the function display on the under side of the unit. (wish I knew how to post pics) This unit is huge and heavy, but built like a tank. Also, unless you used it every day---you would have to carry the instruction manual with you because they are a tad on the complicated side to operate. They both came with AR style front sight base barrel clamp mounts which were pretty useless to me, so after having them siting on the shelf in the box for some time, I called Wilcox to get their rail mounts for them which is a bolt on swap. Wilcox sales woman gave me a bunch of crap about them not being available with a really long lead time (months-maybe--if at all) because we were at war and all their efforts were going towards military orders. (1st Bush war) I had to plead with her to even accept an order to put the parts on a backorder status. The parts showed up 3-4 days later, which give you an idea of how gooned up WILCOX is towards civilian sales. Anyway---its cool stuff, this post actually reminded me that I still have the WILCOX stuff on the shelf in the gun room---that I really have never used but had to have.

Kattman from Michigan

 

[SFCat66]

Wilcox stuff is only good for sexy magazine layouts.

 

[kattman]

SFCat66

Well put------I would have never thought of that, but tend to agree.

Kattman from Michigan

 

[74orange]

delete

 

[gemarsh]

I don't remember if the manual tells how to install the batteries, too damn cold outside to go look, but everytime I try, I put them in upside down. My device has it displayed above both battery compartments, and I assume they would go in so the +- would be equal to what is molded on the unit. Not so, what is molded on the outside is what goes in first! Will not display on the LCD, if they are installed wrong. Give it a try, I thought mine was FUBAR'ed also a few times.

Here... a photo is worth a thousand words..

Also, I think I was one of the first to have my FFL dealer constantly hound Wilcox for the modules. Looks like I was one of the lucky few!...

Be Safe
Gayle

 

[kattman]

I do have to say that all that stuff is cool. I did a week long training recently at Backwater North, and after the first 3 hours with the carbine---all the cool stuff becomes just "heavy" stuff. Did some major re-configuring on my M4 that night at the motel and took off most the cool stuff and just left on the stuff I needed to get through the course. It will be even lighter for future events!!!!!!!

I hope Wilcox fixes your stuff----in a "timely" manner. Good luck!

Kattman

 

[kattman]

Damn---wish I could post with pictures!!!!!!!!!

Kattman

 

[74orange]

delete

 

[SFCat66]

Should I put my noob flamesuit on?

This has been a prime example of too much technoengineering for a weapon or accessory.

Nobody ever saw on the training schedule "How to operate your new techno- goodie to put on your XXX".

Take some time with the gadget and get comfortable with how it operates in all modes of operation. Put on some easy listening music and light a candle. Learn, manipulate and do it again and again in a low stress environment.

Once you can do it while listening to Michael Bolton with your eyes closed...

Blindfold yourself, listen to the soundtrack to "Braveheart" as loud as you can, do 50 pushups and jog in place for 5 min...

Then try it...

 

[HKAZ]

74, I don't think they tell you in the instructions that the "+" and the "-" on the module indicate the end that goes in FIRST. That cost me a few batteries. It will work the other way but the caps get warm and the batteries die real fast. Pray to God that you don't have a repair issue with your's. I have the BEEMER and the Laser and a SOCOM and a USP mount. The 23 switch didn't work from new and it took almost 5 years to get it fixed and sent back. They didn't even want to do that but I had a VISA receipt showing that the mount came directly from them. They said "we don't do civilian sales any more" .Yes the switch should work with either or both units. They also don't tell you that these things will kill the batteries even it they are turned off!!! (like 2 days). In one of my discussions with them they admitted that. So you can't put it on you home defense gun like a HK UTL and have it work for years. Does the indicator light up on the bottom? If it does then the units should work. Check to see if the little pins on the units aren't damaged or where they contact the mount. You should be able to check the switch by putting an ohmmeter across the contacts and pressing the switch. Like wise, if you connect the two posts on the unit it should go on. I'll double check mine Monday and make sure.