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Discussion Starter #1
Modding a SERPA for a USPF with the GG&G adapter? Plus Safariland 6004 modding tips.

Has anyone modded a Blackhawk SERPA CQC holster to accommodate a GG&G adapter (with no attachments, of course) on a USP full size? I looked at using a heat gun but was concerned that the change needed is a bit drastic. Now I'm thinking a bandsaw is in order to lose most of the lower front end (including the triangular section with the tension screw) and just keeping the top end and retention area.

I'd like to use the holster for IDPA but don't want to have to remove the GG&G mount just for matches. Getting it on was a tight fit and I don't want to put undue wear on the screws and threads. I know Comp-Tac can make a custom one, but I just got the SERPA for Christmas and want to use it if possible.

Modding my Safariland 6004 (made for USPF + UTL) for use with the GG&G adapter and a TLR-2 required quite a bit of heat gun work and replacing the plastic upper adjustment screw spacer with a length of fish tank air tubing to protect the TLR-2 from the screw threads and to allow more clearance. It works really great! I also used the heat gun to accommodate my HK factory threaded O-ring barrel with CCF titanium flash suppressor.

Thanks!

Chase
 

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Sounds interesting. I'd like to see your results if you proceed. I also received a Blackhawk holster for Christmas. I normally have a GG&G mount with a Surefire X200B on my USPc for home defense.

When I get to the range, I usually slide the Surefire off and shoot with the GG&G mount left on. I've been kicking around the idea of getting Comp-Tac because the Blackhawk is pretty much useless to me right now. Shame too, its a nice holster and I like the retention system. Plus the carbon fiber looks neat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I modded my SERPA to fit my USP40 with tall adjustable Meprolight night sights and the GG&G adapter. It isn't pretty, but I got it done.

The first step was to add height for the tall front sight. I started with a heat gun, some wood blocks, popsicle sticks and a small flag pole with the little bullet thingy at the end to use as a stretching mandrel. I also fully decided to void the warranty, as this holster was useless to me without all of the required mods. I jammed the wood blocks into the holster and secured them by sliding the popsicle sticks in. Then I heated up the top of the holster with the heat gun and pushed the flag pole and the bullet tip in to stretch the top upward. This polymer does not act like Kydex at all. It must be a thermoset polymer, as it didn't soften up much. It sucked up the heat and distributed it all over the holster. I had to hold it with a towel while pressing in the bullet. The holster top got shiny and deformed a bit, which required some sanding to dull it. I have no pictures of this process, as it was frustrating enough without taking pictures. The tall front sight will clear, though.

Then I gave it to a buddy with a big band saw and lots of pneumatic grinding tools. Many thanks to him for getting most of the heavy material removal done. Once I figured out where the interfering trouble spots were, I bought a round bastard file at Home Depot and worked it over until the USP and adapter slid in and out as easily as possible. It draws nice and smooth. The trigger guard lock engages quite positively and the button feels the same when pressed. The slide stop lever relief is the only thing keeping the pistol from rotating forward in the holster, though. Once you force it past that relief, it will rotate forward. However, the trigger guard lock still engages and releases.

Pictures of the final product:






The slide stop lever relief can be seen at left in the picture below. This keeps the USP from rocking forward until the pistol is pushed hard enough to overcome it.









Now on to the Safariland 6004 mod to accomodate a USP with GG&G adapter and a TLR-2. All I can say is use a heat gun and slide the gun in, finding the interferences. Using a towel to protect your fingers from the hot Kydex and leather interior, push and pry the material to contour where needed. An overhead picture below shows the fish tank tubing as stated in the original post above to allow TLR-2 laser clearance. It's hard to see in the overhead picture, but I have a long aerospace lock nut of some sort (I don't have the MS number handy) threaded onto the tension adjustment screw torqued down to the factory tension nut to keep the screw from going anywhere and to act as a rounded surface that isn't as abrasive/sharp as the screw threads should my hand accidentally come in contact with it. The pictures below also show how I used the heat gun to reshape and stretch the rotating hood to accomodate the tall adjustable Meprolight rear night sight. No modification was needed to accomodate the front sight. The factory front sight relief is adequate.

The modded Safariland 6004 pictures:



Here's the fish tank tubing and the lock nut (toward the left side of picture at the aft end of the holster where the TLR-2 laser would go):





Rotating hood clearance at fully open position:


Rotating hood clearance at halfway closed position:


Rotating hood clearance at closed and locked position:


By the way, for those of you that haven't seen my other thread, the jet funnel magazine adapter you see in lieu of a jet funnel can be seen in a thread about this project I'm doing here:
http://hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73600

Hope this helps!

Chase
 

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Sorry to grave dig an older thread, but I wanted to ask since you modded a safariland holster.

Im about to purchase a USP 45 and add a TLR1 to it; the only holster I've found is the Safariland 6280.
Do you know if a Safariland 6360 (als) for a P2000 can be modded to fit the USP? I haven't held a P2000 in person, so I'm not sure how much larger the USP is.
I've heated kydex (raven concealment) holsters before for different sized glocks, but never have tried it with a Safariland duty holster.
Thanks
 
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