Hello Carrera
I’ve been, and i’m, a user fan of HK770 as many friends of mine, for more than thirty-five years. We use this semiauto carbine in beaten with wild boar hunting.
The only difficulty with this rifle is the stripping of the receiver and remounting if you don’t have the owner manual. Now that the site of Stevespages.com with hundreds of firearms manuals is closed (or at less it seems to be!) when he passed away few years ago: https://stevespages.com/page7.htm) you could refer to this Italian site:
http://www.tiropratico.com/manuali-pdf/2011/H-H&K_630-770-940-rifle.pdf
Look that if you have never disassembled the receiver of an HK of this type it could be a mind stressing affaire!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDlNFvXAKlo
The differences related to the years of production are in the material of trigger pack
(the box of the oldest was made of metal, while that of the most recent in plastic.)
The buffer plate (recoil rubber buffer) was made in two different model with nipples and without but with a metallic shield maintaining in place and are available here:
https://www.mcssl.com/store/rockymountainwildlifeproducts/buffer-plates
I’ve produced, DIY, the front sight with the fiber optic as you can see here:

That are not produced nor available on the market.
Just these days I'm mounting a red point Falke LE 2 Gen with a Weaver Picatinny base produced by an Italian firm just for the 770 with the characteristic of being very low and suitable to be used with the metal sights by removing the red dot.
https://www.erreditrading.com/tiro-sportivo/408-base-weaver-per-hk-770.html
https://www.falke-germany.com/reflex-sights/falke-le-ql-gen-2/?lang=en
For the magazine: yes the two round magazine was for german (domestic) use.
For other countries it was available in two, three and 10 rounds. If you want to increase the capacity from two to three, just remove the latch that you found on the bottom of the magazine follower with a grindstone.
I hope I was helpful.
Fabrizio
Milan -Italy

 

Hello,
I just did a break down, similar to the video. It was pretty straightforward. Mine is the rubber part with nipples, no metal shield.

I can post some photos later if you want to see. It is really clean!

I am not going to touch the magazine, I want everything to remain original.

Is there a separate armorer manual for the SL7/770 or does everyone just use the G3?

Last item - where do you lubricate this, how much and is there any particular lubricant to avoid?

-Ryan

 

Ryan
The manual I have posted is specific for 630 — 770 — 940.
http://www.tiropratico.com/manuali-pdf/2011/H-H&K_630-770-940-rifle.pdf
This one has the “exploded design that someother don’t show.
Look here:
HK770/SL7 Archive - GFB - Mechanik & Systemtechnik
If you aren’t a deutsche sprache “follower use the translator…
As far as lubrication is concerned, one only advises if you use the carbine in very cold climates: do not overdo the lubricant or you will be able to experiment with the percussion blocks as in all weapons.
I use the Break Free
Another item you could find of great interest.
This is a talking with an expert of this kind of weapon and I called him for help:

“Good morning, Mr. M.
Knowing you as an admirer of the H & K 770 in 308, which I too own and have been using (and use) for many years and having a certain maintenance practice on this type of weapon, for many difficult "to be treated” and that many of my friends have long trusted me for cleaning ...
I have a problem that I can not solve with the click fit of the group. The same is fixed to the castle with the screw 23 of the exploded: "raised countersunk head screw" and in the near hole of the same castle engages a spring "24" clamping sleeve that protrudes from the back of the forced release pack in the same near the trigger pin head from which it deviates a few tenths and with which in the past, without apparent mechanical cause, it had collided and hindered the free movement of the trigger, blocking its rotation. At the time I had remedied by extracting a few tenths of the same elastic spine. Now the problem has returned and I noticed that tightening the screw with force 23 (I do not know any torque tightening data!) There is a hardening of the shot up to the block.
Honestly I can not give an explanation of the mechanical architecture and the function of this plug if not the alignment of the block to the castle, or a possible function in maintaining the centrality of the trigger that has two "coaxial" ears ". However I do not explain how the same can deepen in its housing in which it is firmly stuck without any mechanical concussion that can somehow provoke the immersion.
Unfortunately there are not many experts of this weapon and it is not easy to ask and get advice on certain particularities.
I would be grateful if you could give me some explanation and advice.

Regards
Fabrizio Brioschi


Good morning to you Fabrizio

The trigger assembly of the legendary 770 and also of the 940 has always been a topic a little "thorny".,.
Excellent in some respects, a little less under others
I had to "weigh" the shots because they started the shot in the closing phase of the heavy shutter, how to lighten others!

Perhaps you have seen the TWO types of shot packs adopted over the years:
the one in synthetic material and the one in metal used on the first models
The two parts described by you: the set screw and the elastic positioning pin are VERY important because they are really part of the group
So the SCREW must be tight BUT NOT TO DEATH and maybe sprinkled with a drop of threadlocker, while instead the elastic pin must "come out" as much as possible from the shot pack in order not to disturb the internal components.
What is very important is to position the shutter unit in the most coaxial way possible to the weapon so that the safety pin works perfectly perfectly perpendicular.
Surely I would have seen that there is always a peak side game between package and castle, even if infinitesimal ....

Use these little tricks and then let me know
Cordial greetings
M.

I hope you wil find this of some interest
Fabrizio

 

Hello Carrera,
The previous reply seems to have use a computer translator program and is a little difficult to read. German hunting law restricts all semi-autos used for hunting to two round magazines. As you say, breakdown is pretty straight forward. I break my HK 630 and 770 down for cleaning each time they are fired. I use a long handle hex bit driver which extends past the butt of the stock to make it easy to turn the hex screw for removing and replacing the bolt cover. I used my 770 for deer hunting in WI and remove all excess oil for the bolt and action with compressed air before use.

As for scope mounting, I find the 05 mounts for the 630 and 770 are hard to find and expensive, so I made my own scope mount. I made two little inserts with beveled edges and rectangle top to mount inside the receiver top, drilled and tap them for an 8x40 screw. Below is a picture of the two before drilling and tapping. These were a tight fit and had to be set in-place with a brass punch. I used steel inserts for the 630 and aluminum for my 770, they both work fine. A weaver or picatinny rail is set on top of the rail cover and screwed to the inserts with 8-40 screws. I used a Weaver 88 base for the receiver top and cut several slots for tactical rings. The 88 base has a radius bottom which matches the rounded forward portion of the receiver top the rear section is milled flat. This is a very solid mount. I mostly use fixed mounts on my rifles.

 

^ Nice work! To the OP, I believe that 5 and 10 round magazines for SL7 will work with your 770 as well. They aren't easy to come by and quite expensive, but they exist.