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Discussion Starter #1
I want to put together a kit of HK45c parts that are most likely to break or wear out over time and shooting and need replacing. Can you also recommend some simple gunsmithing tools that will assist me in breaking down the frame and slide if need be (I do understand this voids the warranty)? Also, I understand that GGI does some kind of nickel plated coating on the internals... Does this make the internals less prone to wear and breakage compared to "uncoated" internals? And ONE more question... Are the internals of the USP and the HK45c identical? I'd like to get one of those USP mats if so. My Glock mat helped me to gut my G26 and understand it a bit better just wondering if the USP internals mirrored the HK45c.
 

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In my experience it is generally my wallet. Hiyooooooooo!
 

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Maintenance-relevant data from Todd Green's P30 extreme test

I collected these data, because I've got two P30 pistols. Todd also tested an HK45. If you like, you can collect the data:
pistol-training.com » HK45
But I think, the critical parts are nearly the same for both pistols.


PS: I found something about the HK45 in my notes (pistol-training.com » Blog Archive » HK45 Endurance Test: Week Seven):
Once we hit the 12,500 mark, it was time to pull some preventative maintenance. Parts replaced include:

trigger return spring
sear spring
firing pin spring
firing pin block spring
elbow spring (aka “hammer rebound spring”)
recoil spring assembly

The first two got changed based on experience from the P30 test, while the rest were just parts HK said I should replace “at or before 20,000 rounds.” Since ease of detail disassembly and reassembly remains a major omission from the USP/P2000 design, I’m hoping to keep the detail stripping to a minimum during the test. Heck, it only took me eight tries to get the trigger return spring in the gun this time. I’m becoming an expert!
HK45C videos: Disassembly ("detail strip") Reassembly
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Maintenance-relevant data from Todd Green's P30 extreme test

I collected these data, because I've got two P30 pistols. Todd also tested an HK45. If you like, you can collect the data:
pistol-training.com » HK45
But I think, the critical parts are nearly the same for both pistols.


PS: I found something about the HK45 in my notes (pistol-training.com » Blog Archive » HK45 Endurance Test: Week Seven):


HK45C videos: Disassembly ("detail strip") Reassembly
Great info. Thank you. Can someone please explain to me how in the hell can the firing pin spring break and the gun still functions? Either I'm not understanding how firing pins work or HK truly makes amazing guns.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
TRS and magazines. RSA every 20k, but most on here never shoot that much to document.[/QUOTE

Thanks, I got the spare magazine issued covered and I'm pretty sure I'll order more. As far as the RSA I suppose I can wait for that, I don't think I'll reach 20,000 rounds for a long time.
 

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1997 USP 9mm Full Size, too many upgrades to list.
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Mine keeps going through ammunition, every bullet I put in comes out empty.
 

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1997 USP 9mm Full Size, too many upgrades to list.
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Great info. Thank you. Can someone please explain to me how in the hell can the firing pin spring break and the gun still functions? Either I'm not understanding how firing pins work or HK truly makes amazing guns.
The spring could snap but still work, think of it this way, take a slinky cut it in half and put it in a pringles tube. It would still work as a slinky as long as both ends were sealed. the firing pin channel is that pringles tube and is tight enough that even if the spring breaks into two (or more) pieces it would still provide some rebound to the firing pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The spring could snap but still work, think of it this way, take a slinky cut it in half and put it in a pringles tube. It would still work as a slinky as long as both ends were sealed. the firing pin channel is that pringles tube and is tight enough that even if the spring breaks into two (or more) pieces it would still provide some rebound to the firing pin.
Totally understand now. Thanks
 

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When you're ordering all those springs, don't forget to order the roll pins. It's not that they break, but you really shouldn't reuse those when you're replacing other parts in the slide.

Also, in regards to the gun still firing with a broken FPS - the FPS just returns the pin away from the primer after firing. It has nothing to do with the mechanics of igniting the primer when the trigger is pulled. However, it is a necessary part of the safety features along with the pin block and it's spring, preventing it from igniting the primer when you don't pull the trigger (drop test, or slam fires). These are hammer fired guns, not strikers fired like the Glocks. You'll have to recondition your brain around those mechanics, now.

EDIT: There's an animation of the internal functions floating around somewhere. Also, I prefer parts explosion diagrams on the wall over a mat that I constantly cover with extra parts, tools, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
All great info. Thanks. Can anyone list a couple of the tools I should have on hand. Like what size punch and other tools if necessary.
 
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