MP5 Clone Cleaning and Lubricating
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975 Posts
Nothing speical, just a gun. Use whatever gun cleaner/copper cleaner/lube you like. Personally, I spray my receiver inside and out with cheap wal-mart super tech engine degreaser, let sit for an hour, then drop it in the solvent tank and brush the crap out of it. I'm also at the point I just run synthetic motor oil as lube. My machine guns get run hard and this works and it's fast/cheap.....
I ended up breaking it down, covering every thing in a healthy coat of CLP and scrubbing the [email protected]#$ out of it with a toothbrush for a while, then wiping it all down. Man was that sucker dirty.
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2,844 Posts
I clean using proper brushes for the receiver, chamber, chamber face and bore, usually with a bore cleaner (Hoppies 9, MPro7 or Break Free if in a bind), rinse in solvent, dry and spray with Break Free, drip dry and them spot lube the bolt carrier and trigger contact points with Break Free Auto Cannon Lube (similar viscosity to Model 1).
Would check out the following threads:
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-clone-talk/155018-whats-trick.html
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-clone-talk/152012-do-you-remove-your-mp5-extractor-cleaning.html
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-rookie-corner/153832-hk-93-cleaning-help.html
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-clone-talk/112176-proper-lubing.html
And for sure get a E&L Manufacturing chamber face brush.
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Would check out the following threads:
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-clone-talk/155018-whats-trick.html
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-clone-talk/152012-do-you-remove-your-mp5-extractor-cleaning.html
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-rookie-corner/153832-hk-93-cleaning-help.html
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-clone-talk/112176-proper-lubing.html
And for sure get a E&L Manufacturing chamber face brush.
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2,881 Posts
I do this.
1) Clear weapon
2) Field strip weapon
3) Disassemble bolt group
4) Hose down bolt group componets with Balistol, scrub with nylon brush, more Balistol, scrub some more.
5) Bolt group parts get washed with brake cleaner or electronics cleaner then blasted with compressed air
6) Inspect bolt group parts, repeat above is needed.
7) Once bolt parts are clean and dry they get reassembled with a liberal application of Balistol
8) Receiver and trunnion get hosed with Balistol
9) Using chamber face brush the trunnion gets a good scrubbing (by hand)
10) Receiver gets a good scrubbing with a nylon toothbrush
11) Barrel and chamber gets a good hosing with Balistol
12) AR type chamber brush gives the chamber a good scrubbing (I spin the brush in the chamber with a section of rod)
13) Using a bore guide and Dewey caliber specific rod the bore gets a good scrubbing with a Dewey brush
14) Entire receiver/barrel assembly gets washed out with brake cleaner/elec cleaner followed by a blast of compressed air
15) Bore gets patched out until dry
16) Inspection of barrel and receiver
17) Bore gets a single pass run through with a jag and a patch soaked with Birchwood Casey Sheath, followed by a dry patch to remove excess.
18) Receiver rails get a shot of Balistol
19) Trigger groups get looked over, ejector cleaned
20) Weapon is reassembled and wiped down with a rag soaked with Sheath
1) Clear weapon
2) Field strip weapon
3) Disassemble bolt group
4) Hose down bolt group componets with Balistol, scrub with nylon brush, more Balistol, scrub some more.
5) Bolt group parts get washed with brake cleaner or electronics cleaner then blasted with compressed air
6) Inspect bolt group parts, repeat above is needed.
7) Once bolt parts are clean and dry they get reassembled with a liberal application of Balistol
8) Receiver and trunnion get hosed with Balistol
9) Using chamber face brush the trunnion gets a good scrubbing (by hand)
10) Receiver gets a good scrubbing with a nylon toothbrush
11) Barrel and chamber gets a good hosing with Balistol
12) AR type chamber brush gives the chamber a good scrubbing (I spin the brush in the chamber with a section of rod)
13) Using a bore guide and Dewey caliber specific rod the bore gets a good scrubbing with a Dewey brush
14) Entire receiver/barrel assembly gets washed out with brake cleaner/elec cleaner followed by a blast of compressed air
15) Bore gets patched out until dry
16) Inspection of barrel and receiver
17) Bore gets a single pass run through with a jag and a patch soaked with Birchwood Casey Sheath, followed by a dry patch to remove excess.
18) Receiver rails get a shot of Balistol
19) Trigger groups get looked over, ejector cleaned
20) Weapon is reassembled and wiped down with a rag soaked with Sheath
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2,881 Posts
All the above takes me about ten minutes.
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2,881 Posts
Yeah, John, someone told me the Sheath name is no longer used but that the product is still available under a different name. I don't remember what they told me. The can I have is a full size aeresol that I've had for years. Maybe some google fu would yield the new name.
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2,844 Posts
Appears for gun usage that Sheath has been replaced by Barricade which forms a film, which I am guess is similar to Boreshield etc. Do see Sheath is still around for industrial usage in gallon to drum size lots. Birchwood Casey - Rust Preventives
Interesting test that finds WD 40 works well (short term testing): GunTech : Gun Cleaning Clinic: Knowing the Limits of Rust Preventatives - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS ... not a recommendation to use WD40, just a foot note.
Interesting test that finds WD 40 works well (short term testing): GunTech : Gun Cleaning Clinic: Knowing the Limits of Rust Preventatives - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS ... not a recommendation to use WD40, just a foot note.
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2,881 Posts
Yeah, that's it! Barricade. Not heard of Boreshield but Boeshield is an excellent product also, that I use whenever the whim strikes. Either of these products I'll use to restore the outside appearance of the weapon but the only place I use them inside is to protect the bore during storage. Since HK surface finishes (and quality clones) are painted they really don't need the oil for protection but they sure look nice when coated after cleaning and handling.
WD40 is actually an excellent rust preventative. My dad used to spray the bed of his old Ford with it after hauling sand and gravel. We hauled a lot of sand and gravel and the floor of the bed was bare steel. When he got rid of that truck the bed was shiney silver, not a rust spot anywhere. Do NOT use it in firearms. The stuff forms a varnish that will gum up the works and it's thin enough to kill primers, were any to get on the casings.
WD40 is actually an excellent rust preventative. My dad used to spray the bed of his old Ford with it after hauling sand and gravel. We hauled a lot of sand and gravel and the floor of the bed was bare steel. When he got rid of that truck the bed was shiney silver, not a rust spot anywhere. Do NOT use it in firearms. The stuff forms a varnish that will gum up the works and it's thin enough to kill primers, were any to get on the casings.
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975 Posts
Yeah, machine gun copper fouling takes more than ten minutes to get scrubbed out. 1000 rounds of tula ammo takes a bit scrubbin too....
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2,844 Posts
Goes faster on the MM23eK, just swap barrels ;-).
Have at times gotten the well fired 223s back to "almost no copper" but was a winter project and was wondering how far gone the bores were (if they have rifling and can light tracers than they are good to go at least for KCR ;-).
Have at times gotten the well fired 223s back to "almost no copper" but was a winter project and was wondering how far gone the bores were (if they have rifling and can light tracers than they are good to go at least for KCR ;-).
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2,881 Posts
One cannot scrub out copper fouling, it takes chemicals. Typically copper is only a concern with accuracy so in a
machine gun why bother?
Point taken about round count though. My guns typically only see a couple hundred rounds before I clean. No sear here.
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2,844 Posts
Three reasons to worry about copper in machine guns:
- Some of them are actually fairly accurate and some of the crazy fools try target shooting with them.
- Not all of the machine guns are fire 100% of the time on full and in these case a reasonable accuracy helps (then again full auto is not best for match rifles ;-)
- Because the copper is there and it is Spring, time to shoot and finish the Spring house keeping ;-)
- Some of them are actually fairly accurate and some of the crazy fools try target shooting with them.
- Not all of the machine guns are fire 100% of the time on full and in these case a reasonable accuracy helps (then again full auto is not best for match rifles ;-)
- Because the copper is there and it is Spring, time to shoot and finish the Spring house keeping ;-)
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10,287 Posts
The Outers electronic bore cleaner works great on both copper AND lead fouling. It really helps when trying to figure out a new round nose lead combo for a new sub gun.
Sheath is now called Barricade IIRC
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2,881 Posts
Yeah, JT pointed that out eight posts ago.
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1,038 Posts
I would recommend that you do it the way HK says to do it.
Heckler & Koch MP5 Sub Machine Gun Family-operator Manual
Start at page 52. Everything else is just opinion.
Heckler & Koch MP5 Sub Machine Gun Family-operator Manual
Start at page 52. Everything else is just opinion.
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