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I'm pretty new to HK but I've always wanted an MP5 and I'm looking for some advice in the best way to go about it. I definatly want it as an SBR not a pistol. And I'd really like it to be as close as possible to a factory HK as I can get. So any advice on how to go about getting one or who to have build one would be appreciated.
 

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If u can get one, MKE.
If you want high-end, Dakota Tactical
If you want a good gun but are on a budget, DJF

If price is really no issue, buy an HK94 and have me covert it to an MP5 or try to find one already done by TSC or RDTS.

Examples of my work can be found in my photo gallery or by simply doing a search.
 

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Whatever you finally get, just don't call it an MP5... because it's not. Actual MP5s are fully automatic sub-machineguns made that way originally from the factory. Everything else is just a conversion of a semi 94 or a clone (whatever flavor) made to impersonate an MP5.

It's a personal sticking point. I once had a possible customer come in asking if I'd be interested in buying his MP5. I asked, "A real MP5 as in full auto?" and he said, Yup. Knowing full well there actually are about 11 REAL MP5s that somehow became transferable, I said, sure... bring it in. He asked how much it was worth, and I said if it was a real MP5, it would be worth possibly up to $20K (remember this was back in the early '90s when sears were $450 and RR guns were $1800-2000). SO off he went and burst through the door about 2 hours later. And of course it was a RR gun, not a real MP5 and he got pissy about the offer I made and stormed back out.
 

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Since you only joined this month, a quick over view. A decent deal on a used US made semi auto clone will start at $1,200- $1,400 and it might or might not run. So you might spend another $200 in parts to make it run. You'll spend around that same money or maybe a little more for a used MKE pistol. To convert it to a carbine you'll need to deal with 922(R) compliance so some extra money in US parts. Plus with the full size MKE pistol, there would be the cost for barrel work. Then upper teens for a DJF gun, but it will be US made so 922(R) won't be a problem. DT clone well over $2,000. A HK94 will be around $4,000 +/-. Full MP5 conversion of the HK94 will be another $1,500 +/-. You might be able to find a used converted 94 in the $4,800 range. These will all be semi auto guns. To run full auto a registered sear would be around $14,000+. These prices are just guesses on my part. You might run into a deal. On the other end, my guesses could be low as to what you'll actually find. So your mileage may vary.

Scott

Be aware. The NFA Branch has ruled that changing the model # on a NFA registered firearm is not approved. If your carbine is remarked "MP5", it needs to be done before registering as a SBR. Personally, I wouldn't bother. As "Shattered" said, unless you buy a factory MP5 that was imported before the Gun Control Act of 1968, the gun will just be a conversion. Like making a purse out of a sow's ear, whatever conversion you buy above, will never actually be a "MP5". It might look like one and function like one, but it will never be one. Good luck with your "MP5" project.
 

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Since you only joined this month, a quick over view. A decent deal on a used US made semi auto clone will start at $1,200- $1,400 and it might or might not run. So you might spend another $200 in parts to make it run. You'll spend around that same money or maybe a little more for a used MKE pistol. To convert it to a carbine you'll need to deal with 922(R) compliance so some extra money in US parts. Plus with the full size MKE pistol, there would be the cost for barrel work. Then upper teens for a DJF gun, but it will be US made so 922(R) won't be a problem. DT clone well over $2,000. A HK94 will be around $4,000 +/-. Full MP5 conversion of the HK94 will be another $1,500 +/-. You might be able to find a used converted 94 in the $4,800 range. These will all be semi auto guns. To run full auto a registered sear would be around $14,000+. These prices are just guesses on my part. You might run into a deal. On the other end, my guesses could be low as to what you'll actually find. So your mileage may vary.

Scott

Be aware. The NFA Branch has ruled that changing the model # on a NFA registered firearm is not approved. If your carbine is remarked "MP5", it needs to be done before registering as a SBR. Personally, I wouldn't bother. As "Shattered" said, unless you buy a factory MP5 that was imported before the Gun Control Act of 1968, the gun will just be a conversion. Like making a purse out of a sow's ear, whatever conversion you buy above, will never actually be a "MP5". It might look like one and function like one, but it will never be one. Good luck with your "MP5" project.
I appreciate people like you and your expertise, it is what makes this site what it is. I may own 8 clones/ HKs but I am still a "rookie" and appreciate good info and all the input on this site.
 

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Whatever you finally get, just don't call it an MP5... because it's not. Actual MP5s are fully automatic sub-machineguns made that way originally from the factory. Everything else is just a conversion of a semi 94 or a clone (whatever flavor) made to impersonate an MP5.

It's a personal sticking point. I once had a possible customer come in asking if I'd be interested in buying his MP5. I asked, "A real MP5 as in full auto?" and he said, Yup. Knowing full well there actually are about 11 REAL MP5s that somehow became transferable, I said, sure... bring it in. He asked how much it was worth, and I said if it was a real MP5, it would be worth possibly up to $20K (remember this was back in the early '90s when sears were $450 and RR guns were $1800-2000). SO off he went and burst through the door about 2 hours later. And of course it was a RR gun, not a real MP5 and he got pissy about the offer I made and stormed back out.
I love how this is your soapbox. You are correct of course. I also get a kick out of people who think they own an "m16" when it is realy an AR15. And you you always have the century golani, not really a galil. We spend money on replicas because we can't afford the real deal.
 

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Most everything I've learned about the roller locked platform, I've learned right here on this site. Others where kind enough to share their knowledge with me. I'm just trying to give back some of what I've gotten here. I'm still learning. "G3Kurz" mentioned that a rifle extractor spring could be used for a .40 caliber (.40 S&W or 10mm AUTO). I had heard from several that you could use a rifle spring in a 9mm. The rifle springs are less money and it is handier to have to only stock one spring for all my HK sear hosts.

Scott
 

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Be aware. The NFA Branch has ruled that changing the model # on a NFA registered firearm is not approved. If your carbine is remarked "MP5", it needs to be done before registering as a SBR. Personally, I wouldn't bother.. ...
Neither would I. Really, what's in a name because that is what this is all about. You can have a sear in a converted HK94 that will look and work just like an MP5, minus the swing down capability but for all pratical purposes, an MP5 or hypothetically a 94 that has had the shelf removed and the front push pin exposed and utilized and a FA pack put in (all illegal mind you,) but there you go MP5 in every aspect including mfg. except it is stamped HK94. Remove that, restamp MP5 and you would be hard pressed to prove it's not an MP5 from visual exam. That is an extreme example but there you go. Personally, I could care less if it even has HK on it as long as function is 100%.
 

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I also get a kick out of people who think they own an "m16" when it is realy an AR15.
I get a kick out of all the people who think they have a AR15 when it's actually an off-brand and not even an AR15 at all. Just a clone. If it isn't a Colt, or a very early Armalite, it isn't a true AR15.
 

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Most everything I've learned about the roller locked platform, I've learned right here on this site. Others where kind enough to share their knowledge with me. I'm just trying to give back some of what I've gotten here. I'm still learning. "G3Kurz" mentioned that a rifle extractor spring could be used for a .40 caliber (.40 S&W or 10mm AUTO). I had heard from several that you could use a rifle spring in a 9mm. The rifle springs are less money and it is handier to have to only stock one spring for all my HK sear hosts.

Scott
Are you referring to this: German Rifle Extractor Spring, HK91, G3 Extractor spring, HK 93, 33 extractor spring - HKPARTS.NET
I had heard what you stated so I asked a reputable seller several months ago about "one spring works for all" and he told me not to use the above spring in my 9mm?

How are they working for you?
 

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Are you referring to this: German Rifle Extractor Spring, HK91, G3 Extractor spring, HK 93, 33 extractor spring - HKPARTS.NET
I had heard what you stated so I asked a reputable seller several months ago about "one spring works for all" and he told me not to use the above spring in my 9mm?

How are they working for you?
I have both and don't really pay any attention when I need to replace one. They both work about the same. But then again, I haven't have to replace one for quite a long time. They don't wear out very fast if you have the bugs worked out of your gun. The main thing that causes them to fail is a Failure to Eject problem when a new round pushes up against the old empty case when trying to go forward into battery again. This causes enough force against the old round that it pushes outwardly against the extractor (and spring) hard enough to fatigue it.

So if you get your ejection problems taken care of, it shouldn't be a problem...usually. YMMV.

Oh, to answer your question, Yes, that's the one he was referring to. Check out Adam's description:

HK German Rifle Extractor Spring. This will work with all HK 91/G3/51, HK93/33/53's. This is also a great upgrade for those that want to upgrade the copper extractor spring to this stiffer silver extractor spring. This spring is also a great way to upgrade your HK MP5,94 & MP5K,SP-89 or other clone to have a cleaner, stronger extraction as well as prolonged extractor spring life over the copper colored (9mm) extractor springs. Many HK gunsmiths recommend using this extractor spring on all HK 90 Series HK's.
 

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Thx Retro, I suspected as much about hiccups causing quicker wear on the springs. I guess when I get'em running right I'll switch to the rifle springs. I did read the description but should just put a couple of bucks down to test them out!
 

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The rifle extractor springs have worked fine in my 9mm guns. The last time I bought springs, I purchased 25 rifle extractor and 25 .40 caliber springs. So I haven't put a rifle spring in a .40 caliber yet. I have many more 9mm and rifle calibers than I do .40 caliber. I don't know whether I could use a .40 caliber in a rifle caliber host. Since they are more money each, I'll use the .40 caliber springs for .40 caliber until I only have a few left. Then I'll try a rifle spring. It is not like I'll send the .40 caliber springs back. I'll just use them up. YMMV.

Scott
 

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what's the springs for and why the wearing out so much on you. I ask because i just got the 40 cal.
The extractor spring is the one that holds the extractor in place. It needs to hold it firmly there to keep a tight grasp on it while the bolt is traveling rearward. You don't want it to let go until the case makes contact with the ejector lever. If the spring gets fatigued, the case can prematurely pop out of the bolt head and then doesn't get ejected correctly by the ejector lever. So then it's stuck in there and keeps the next found from going into battery.

In cases where there is an ejection problem (problem with the ejector lever or whatever else), the empty case can stay locked in the bolt face of the bolt head. When this happens, the bolt assembly travels forward and picks up the next round out of the magazine. But then you have two cases (one loaded and one empty) trying to occupy the same space. The loaded round pushes upward and can slight dislodge the empty case, but make it bind on the extractor, causing the extractor to push outward on the spring farther than normal. This can fatigue the extractor spring, leading the way to even more ejection problems and essentially a cascading effect at this point.

So, until you get the bugs worked out of the guns ejection problem, you can continue to damage these extractor springs. In this scenario, the damaged/weakened extractor springs are not the problem... they are a symptom of the problem.
 
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