HKPRO Forums banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First let me say thank you to the regulars here. I have been a member for years and have read thousands of post and I am at the junior level of HK Pro! You are an awesome freedom loving community.

Now that we are all buttered up I have a hard question that no amount of reading has solved.

I have a NFA Registered Fleming Sear in an trigger pack and have put tens of thousands of rounds down range over the last 8 years. I have several hosts but the MP5 is my fav (I have an A3 variant Clone with all German internals). Last week at the range after dumping a few beta mags of 9mm a small piece of metal dropped out of the SMG. See attached picture. It was the HK Trip Lever head (top) that broke in half. I did a little research and bought a new FRICTION Trip Lever (right side of the picture).

I reassembled the trigger pack and things were not working right. I did not have to depress the trip lever to release the hammer. The sear was not resting in the grove on the hammer. It was too high (too close to the front of the trigger housing). I then got the two pieces of the old part and put them together and noticed it was fairly different. You can see all the metal that was removed from the broken trip lever where the sear arm would rest allowing it to come down far enough to sit in the hammer shelf. Depressing the old lever was required to release the hammer (as it should).

Now the questions... Do i need a ROLLER Trip lever (PICTURE ON THE RIGHT)? In pictures it has material removed where this broken Trip Lever has material removed but I am not sure it is enough as the broken one looks pretty thin there where the sear arm would rub up on the Trip Lever arm. The broken one looks like the material was removed by someone (not factory) with a Dremel or something. Kind of shoddy frankly but this gun ran like a top for a LONG time! Also, I have read here where Fleming registered sears all use FRICTION type Trip Levers like the one on the right but unless I installed it incorrectly a few times then this can't be as the thickness of the FRICTION type is too thick.

Any ideas? Do I try to replicate the broken part using the FRICTION Lever in the picture on the right? Do I just buy a ROLLER Type Trip Lever and see if that works (and assume that the guy that sold me the gun just didn't want to go through the trouble of finding a surplus Roller type so he fabricated what he had out of a FRICTION type). The final OR is, should I use this opportunity to turn this into a 4 position Navy pack? Please help and i know I could do the Navy upconversion but I want to get this SEF running too and find out what the problem is here.

edit... OK I just saw a ROLLER on the inside of a trigger pack and I do NOT have a roller there. It is just the rounded arm of the Fleming Sear that sticks up and touches the Trip Lever.
Arggg...

IF YOU READ ALL THAT... THANKS AGAIN IN ADVANCE. IMG_2336.jpeg roller-type-trip-lever-1.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
226 Posts
All of my (Fleming / Qualified) conversion sears sit in 4-position lowers and all have roller trips installed...they work without issue. I think the roller trips were just left in there when the 4-position packs were converted by the C2 for the conversion (friction) type sears. It's been years since I goofed around with trip levers and sear combinations, but IIRC the friction trips were really tight to the point it was really tough to re-install the registered sear had I removed it...so I just left the roller trips in the pack. No problems.

I think matching the type of sear to the trip matters more with factory sears and factory geometry...the difference of geometry of the conversion (friction) sears allows them to work / fit with the roller trips in my experience.
.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top