[kwesi]

I've used a product on my Glocks called RZ-50. This is a spray on dry lube that dries in a few seconds. My Glocks have not had a drop of oil, just this product. The guns function flawlessly and when friends see the gun broken down they say "this looks NIB" and are usually surprised when I tell them the guns has had about 3,600 rounds.

This product produces a slick roller bearing type of finish that builds up over time but it does not like oil.

Anyone know why I shouldn't use it on FA for my MP5K? I stripped all the oil out of it with brake fluid then put several coats of RZ-50 on it. I want to get it out for a test run.

Any advice?

 

[kwesi]

What is most likely to happen if the heat build up becomes an issue with my favorite lube?

 

[JTinIN]

If you lube fails due to heat build up or usage (a full auto may shoot a case of ammo in a day, which is more than most handguns) you may get excessive wear, in particular at the various wear points pointed out in the manual (i.e. the slightly wet lube areas) or have functional issues.

I would watch for any signs of wear on the various internal contact points and stop using if new / larger wear points show up and/or you have functional issues when shooting (in particular if the functional issues are corrected with a spray of Break Free at the range ;-).

For typical private uses of NFA firearms (i.e. subgun matchs, range usages and just go old everyday tin can blasting) I tend to error on the side of a little extra lube just keep wear down, as we typically don't have issues with excessive dust (at least in the Midwest). Besides using Break Free (one of two lubes listed in one of the manuals), I have also been spot lubing with an older Break Free product that has a slightly higher viscosity and is very slippery (20 mm cannon lube) on the bolt & trigger group contact points (i.e. sear trip), all with good luck for the last dozen cases of ammo.

 

[cheshier2]

I use break free oil on my FA stuff with no problems.
Good luck