For those who care, a great way to clean up any stock trigger is to remove the pins and then chuck them up lightly in an electric drill and run it while applying a fine seel wool to the pin to polish it. Then take a .17 bore brush, wrap with same said fine steel wool, chuck up in the electric drill and run through the pin holes of the hammer, trigger, and disconnect for about 30 seconds. Then run same said steel wool wrapped bit in drill over the sear engagements just enough to shine them nicely. Make sure the spin direction of the steel wool wrapped bore brush is away from the edge of the sear, not towards it. No need to break down the edge, even just a little.
Re-assemble with a good quality grease (I prefer Brownells moly grease), and it will run a heck of a lot smoother.
Of course this only takes out the "grit" and does nothing for slack, over-travel, etc. It will "feel" like it's a little bit lighter in the trigger though simply because it's so much more smooth.
Of course you can always simply just use the LPK until it wears itself in, but that might take awhile. Others have gone so far as to completely dissassmble their LPK, degrease, then re-assemble using flitz (a polishing compound) as the lube and then work the trigger and hammer by hand for an hour or so while watching a movie, then dissassemble again, clean up the parts and lower, then re-assemble using grease. I've even heard of others using toothpaste for this and working the trigger around 3K times by hand to polish in the pieces (they say it does the same thing with less wear then the polishing compound, just takes longer is all).
In essence, all that's really being done is the outer layer of parkerizing is being removed and polished to make the trigger run smoother. No more, no less.
This