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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I got this Troy Micro BUIS on my MR223 A3. Great sight and zeroed @100 meter and it hits right on spot.

But then I tried to do a 50 meter zero and the front post seems impossible to adjust low enough to zero it at 50 meters. Is it really true that the Troy Micro can not be zeroed @50 meters??

At 50 meters it shoots too low and since the rear sight is reponsible for the windage the front post is for elevation. And the lowest setting is not low enough to raise my point of impact.

Anyone out there with a Troy micro BUIS? I would love to know how to set this sight.
 

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Ok so I got this Troy Micro BUIS on my MR223 A3. Great sight and zeroed @100 meter and it hits right on spot.

But then I tried to do a 50 meter zero and the front post seems impossible to adjust low enough to zero it at 50 meters. Is it really true that the Troy Micro can not be zeroed @50 meters??

At 50 meters it shoots too low and since the rear sight is reponsible for the windage the front post is for elevation. And the lowest setting is not low enough to raise my point of impact.

Anyone out there with a Troy micro BUIS? I would love to know how to set this sight.
I gave up on my Troy BUIS that came with an MR556 due to too many issues adjusting the front site post.


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I gave up on my Troy BUIS that came with an MR556 due to too many issues adjusting the front site post.


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Now that you saying this did you also experience difficulties with that tiny plunger that need to be pressed while you screw that needle in the front post? I have wrecked my front post finish due to the very tight space design on that thing.
 

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Now that you saying this did you also experience difficulties with that tiny plunger that need to be pressed while you screw that needle in the front post? I have wrecked my front post finish due to the very tight space design on that thing.
That's exactly why I gave up on them. That thing just didn't work for me. I scuffed the devil out of the post and still couldn't get the darn thing to work right.

But I can't shoot BUIS anyway. At 48 my eyes are shot and the focal points on my trifocals make it close to impossible for me to focus on the front sight while maintaining the correct sight alignment with the rear sight and a clear sight picture in front of the rifle.


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Ok so I got this Troy Micro BUIS on my MR223 A3. Great sight and zeroed @100 meter and it hits right on spot.

But then I tried to do a 50 meter zero and the front post seems impossible to adjust low enough to zero it at 50 meters. Is it really true that the Troy Micro can not be zeroed @50 meters??

At 50 meters it shoots too low and since the rear sight is reponsible for the windage the front post is for elevation. And the lowest setting is not low enough to raise my point of impact.

Anyone out there with a Troy micro BUIS? I would love to know how to set this sight.
Never had any problems with my Troy Micro Sights (3 sets total), but then again, I only use 100 meters zero on all my rifles. BTW which aperture did you use?

Now that you saying this did you also experience difficulties with that tiny plunger that need to be pressed while you screw that needle in the front post? I have wrecked my front post finish due to the very tight space design on that thing.
Sight Adjustment Tool is your friend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Never had any problems with my Troy Micro Sights (3 sets total), but then again, I only use 100 meters zero on all my rifles. BTW which aperture did you use?

Sight Adjustment Tool is your friend.
Well I used both focus flaps on the micro's rear sight post. Didn't work either of them. I used a leather man but the point is to get it to 50 meter zero I need to screw the front post downwards and it looks like there is simply no more "adjustment room". The front post needle has hit the bottom. :-(
 

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I have Troy's on both my MR556's and my MR762 but I have them all zeroed at 100 yards. I haven't tried zeroing @50.

Is there a specific reason for wanting to zero @50 vs. 100?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have Troy's on both my MR556's and my MR762 but I have them all zeroed at 100 yards. I haven't tried zeroing @50.

Is there a specific reason for wanting to zero @50 vs. 100?
I like the spectrum of the trajectory of @50m zero. 0-200 just hold on.

I used to do 100m zero but everything is "hold over" and that is just too annoying for me. The Iron sight need to be sighted in so I need to hold under. In an optic hold over is OK, as you have space enough to see the picture. But holdover with an Iron sight is just covering up the target.
 

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Well I used both focus flaps on the micro's rear sight post. Didn't work either of them. I used a leather man but the point is to get it to 50 meter zero I need to screw the front post downwards and it looks like there is simply no more "adjustment room". The front post needle has hit the bottom. :-(
I hear what you're saying about the adjustment, obviously the Sight Adjustment Tool wouldn't help with that. I was actually referring to your previous remark about wrecking the front post finish.

I like the spectrum of the trajectory of @50m zero. 0-200 just hold on.

I used to do 100m zero but everything is "hold over" and that is just too annoying for me. The Iron sight need to be sighted in so I need to hold under. In an optic hold over is OK, as you have space enough to see the picture. But holdover with an Iron sight is just covering up the target.
To maintain awareness of the target at distances that would otherwise obscure the target with the front sight, you might want to zero the iron sights 5 centimeters high at 100 meters. Also, keep in mind that 50 meters zero leaves a large margin for possible error in adjustment; at 200 meters wind begins to make a distinct effect on the bullet, which can cause a lot of issues with deviation adjustment. That being said, backup iron sights are called "backup" iron sights for a reason. If my primary optic went down I would have a hard time placing accurate shots at distances exceeding those discussed above, especially in low light conditions outside the classic range. You can't hit what you can't see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I hear what you're saying about the adjustment, obviously the Sight Adjustment Tool wouldn't help with that. I was actually referring to your previous remark about wrecking the front post finish.

To maintain awareness of the target at distances that would otherwise obscure the target with the front sight, you might want to zero the iron sights 5 centimeters high at 100 meters. Also, keep in mind that 50 meters zero leaves a large margin for possible error in adjustment; at 200 meters wind begins to make a distinct effect on the bullet, which can cause a lot of issues with deviation adjustment. That being said, backup iron sights are called "backup" iron sights for a reason. If my primary optic went down I would have a hard time placing accurate shots at distances exceeding those discussed above, especially in low light conditions outside the classic range. You can't hit what you can't see.

Aha you talking about the finish. Yes I should have used proper tool. But then again I never thought that front post was that difficult to adjust. :-(

As for the zero I know the wind kicks in at 200 but I said 0-200 only to an emphasize that it was a "no hold over/under" method. Just adjust and leave it as it is. I never shoot that far anyway. My original idea was to make a perfect 50 meter zero dead on with the aimpoint and a 50mm high at 50 m with the iron so the iron won't obscure the target.

By the way have you guys ever shot at a target 2 to 4 meters away with a 100 zero with your BUIS? I couldn't hit a thing. You really need to hold over a lot.
 

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Why not remove the front sight post and shave it down? Job done.

I agree with the OP, for irons or a RDS a 200Y/50Y zero is really the best way to go, but as stated for BUIS if you aren't already skilled at shooting long distances, or otherwise anticipate having to do that, it's not going to matter much.

ghostmode - you have to stack the sights (irons) at that distance. Anywhere closer than your first LoS crossing you will be hitting lower because you are inside the distance between your bore and your sights (height over bore).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Why not remove the front sight post and shave it down? Job done.

I agree with the OP, for irons or a RDS a 200Y/50Y zero is really the best way to go, but as stated for BUIS if you aren't already skilled at shooting long distances, or otherwise anticipate having to do that, it's not going to matter much.

ghostmode - you have to stack the sights (irons) at that distance. Anywhere closer than your first LoS crossing you will be hitting lower because you are inside the distance between your bore and your sights (height over bore).
Well...hmm...shaving the front sight is my last solution :-(
 

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I only use troy and have had zero issues. There's math to get you a 200m zero without hitting at 50m. That's what you're going for anyway right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I only use troy and have had zero issues. There's math to get you a 200m zero without hitting at 50m. That's what you're going for anyway right?
Well actually it is the opposit. I don't shoot that much at all out to 200m. I want the 50m dead on and if possible actually to make it a "hold under" at 50m.

I'm checking out the Magpul Pro BUIS. Any of these can get to 50m with ease?
 

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Well actually it is the opposit. I don't shoot that much at all out to 200m. I want the 50m dead on and if possible actually to make it a "hold under" at 50m.

I'm checking out the Magpul Pro BUIS. Any of these can get to 50m with ease?
I'm going to get a set of KAC 600 micros and try them.


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