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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I finally picked up my optic. I loved the S&B scopes I looked through. Even my novice eyes could see that they gathered light amazingly and were super crisp and well made.

I ended up with a super deal on a 2.5 to 10X32 Nightforce NXS Compact and some Burris rings (420165 High 3/4" (19mm) Height).
Here's a pic of how it is looking before anything is torqued down.

I'd just like to ask your advice:
Are these rings too high (parallax issues)?
I adjusted the scope forward for about the right amount of eye relief. Does it appear it should be moved forward or backward?
Are the rings in about the right places? Move forward or back?
The scope and rings were about $1300. Could I have done much better for that money?

Thanks to you all for the advice given here!
 

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Whether the rings are too high or whether the scope needs to be moved forward or back depends mostly on what works for you with whatever stock and cheek position is comfortable for you. It's not about how it looks on the gun. If the eye relief is good and you don't have to raise your head to line up with the optic, then it's fine.

Also, I wouldn't move the front mount any farther forward. You'll want to keep it on the receiver rail, and not put it on the handguard rail. Otherwise, you'll have to remove it if you want to remove the handguard to clean the gas piston.
 

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The rings look good. As far as the scope being to high you will have to do a couple things to determine this. One you want to expand your buttstock to its correct length for you. Two get down behind the rifle in a nice supported, sand bags or bipod, position. Three lay your cheek on the buttstock in a relaxed manner and look through your scope. If you have to raise your head up to see the reticle and can feel a slight neck strain you have your scope too high. You can fix this by shorter rings or by building up your cheek piece to the right height. Rings do not have anything to do with parallex. Your parallex Is having your objective aligned with your reticle. You should have a parallex adjustment on the scope. Essentially when you are looking at your target and move your head up and down and right and left the target should not move if your parallex is adjusted properly.The scope looks good for eye relief but this too has to be adjusted when you are laying behind the rifle. When you are laying behind the rifle in a good comfortable position close your eyes. Open them as you are looking through your scope. If you see scope shadow you need to adjust your eye relief. This is best done with loose rings so you can slowly move your scope forward and back until there is no scope shadow. Close your eyes after each adjustment and open them and look through the scope until you are comfortable with your eye relief. Hope I was not confusion and was able to help.
 

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Also, if I may add... After you close your eyes, take a very deep breath and exhale and relax. Then open your eyes. This is where I have found my optimal shooting position on the rifle and set my optics accordingly.

Great looking setup btw. If you get a moment, please consider posting photos of it in the Club 762 thread :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
One more question all. There is a particularly good deal on a new S&B 4-16X50 Klassik Varmint scope. I could pay about $600 more and have the S&B instead of the NF.

Appreciate any opinions.
Primary use of the scope for me is paper and steel targets with an occasional deer hunt. The S&B has no illumination, but would probably gather much more light.
Is the S&B overkill?
Thank you!
 

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One more question all. There is a particularly good deal on a new S&B 4-16X50 Klassik Varmint scope. I could pay about $600 more and have the S&B instead of the NF.

Appreciate any opinions.
Primary use of the scope for me is paper and steel targets with an occasional deer hunt. The S&B has no illumination, but would probably gather much more light.
Is the S&B overkill?
Thank you!
While it is a Schmidt & Bender (my favorite), that scope would not be a good fit for your rifle. The varmint model utilizes a BDC reticle calibrated for high-velocity rounds like the .223 and 22-250; thus, it would likely not match your 7.62 ballistics for some holdover markings on the scope. If I recall, there is also considerably less elevation adjustment compared to the PMII series and Nightforce tactical scopes. Finally, this thing is huge. It's considerably larger, longer and heavier than your current scope and it will lack some of the capabilities.

I think you made a good choice with the 2.5-10x32 NF. It is an excellent match for a rifle like the MR762, EMC, or MWS.
 

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This is what it would look like:



Crosshairs with dots instead of sharp intersections are not ideal/popular in most precision shooting applications
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for the advice! I believe this one has the A8 reticle, so slightly different than what you posted, but similar. Regardless, the points you made in your post certainly give me plenty of caution about this particular S&B. It's a steal of a deal though.
 

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Thank you for the advice! I believe this one has the A8 reticle, so slightly different than what you posted, but similar. Regardless, the points you made in your post certainly give me plenty of caution about this particular S&B. It's a steal of a deal though.
The reticle above is the "A8 Varmint" reticle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Very appreciative for the advice here. Pointblank...especially you.
I did give in to the desires for more light gathering, more magnification, and more clarity.
The NF is a great scope, and well featured, and of course a great size. But this deal on the S&B, I could not pass it up.
BTW, this one has the A7 reticle (I was wrong above)
Hoping to get it sighted in this weekend. Will report on how it goes.

 

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If you find that the scope is still too high, with a 50mm obj lense you can go as low as 15mm rise although you wont be able to fit a cap over the end as it gives about 1mm of clearance.

Looks great BTW!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you for that...I would say that there's currently about 5 to 6mm of clearance (about .25").
 

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I had about 1/2" with my Burris PEPR mount (1" rise) and it was just too high for my liking.
 

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I'm glad you are satisfied with your purchase as jumping on any "deal" with a S&B is never a bad decision.

I'm calling it now, I look for it to be about 6 months before you're looking to trade in both for a PMII because THIS is how it starts...trust me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I could see that happening. However, I just looked up the price of that sucker and it's literally twice what I paid for the Klassik.
Again, very appreciative for all of your help!
Hoping to shoot this rig tomorrow.
On the hunt for an inch pound torque wrench today.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, had a great time shooting this weekend. I had no luck finding a inch pound torque wrench locally , so I went through the usual method:

Torque until it strips and then back off half a turn (kidding). Actually, I think I did a great job snugging it down just right...some blue locktite on the screws as well.

I sighted in initially from about 50 ft prone with 4x magnification. It took about 9 shots to get it centered on bullseye.
I then walked back to 100 yards and put the magnification to 12.
The first two shots were actually touching each other. However, they were at the top of the target rather than at bullseye. To get the followup shots lower, I had to adjust the elevation again.
By this time, I had shot a good bit of rounds and was a bit shakey, so no groups to brag about. Also basically my first time shooting an AR with high magnification.

I'm anxious to go back again and see if having it zeroed correctly for 100 yards right off the bat allows me to make a few tight groups right away.

Any concerns that I would have needed to adjust the elevation like that moving from 50ft at 4x to 100 yards at 12x?

My shoulder is sore! You can tell I'm a handgun shooter!
 

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Being a Schmidt & Bender which i'm fairly sure that model is first focal plane, there should be no difference in POA/POI between magnifications. I'm taking a wild guess here in that you were about 2" high at 100y?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It was more like 8" high. Only other thing that could matter. At 50 feet, I was prone on the ground. At 100 yrds, I was at a bench sitting up.
 
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