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NOTICE: As I'm leaving the P2000sk and going to USPc DA/SA (Variant 1), I will no longer be maintaining this FAQ. However, whatever finds you do have, just freely reply to this thread if it's relevant. Thanks! (I'm not hating on the LEM/P2000/sk, its just I have come to some personal preferences in terms of going USP, which are discussed in this thread)
With all the same P2000 and P2000sk questions just flooding this forum, I promised you guys that I'd make an FAQ. Anyways, if there's anything else to add, please feel free to post here to keep this thing going, and the clutter down bigtime. Rookies, please read here, then search, before pushing the post button.
If you find this helpful, rate this accordingly.
P2000/sk FAQ:
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What are the key differences between the P2000/sk and the USPc?
1. P2000's have no safety - intended to be a service firearm of the German police, it was designed to be carried cocked and loaded with the LEM modification.
2. USP's are full size and compact, while P2000 is a compact and the P2000sk is a sub compact (sub-kompakt)
3. Interchangable backstraps on the grip on the P2000. 4 for the P2000, and 2 for the P2000sk.
4. No o-ring or threaded barrel for the P2000/sk
5. Magazines on the USPc/P2000 and SK are all interchangable. On the SK the USPc/P2000 mag will stick out about an inch, but it's very solid. I use these for my range mags to save my "stock" (flush SK mags) for home. 9mm/40SW mags are the same on the USP/c as the newer mags on the bottom now say USPc/P2000 on them for 40 and 9mm. There's discussions that the lip on the mags for the stock 40 vs. 9mm are different, however this doesn't adversely/negatively affect performance. Rumors stated that getting the 40 SW mags and replacing them with 9mm would yield more capacity, but was confirmed by members here as not the case.
6. In terms of what to buy? If you need ambidexterous P2000. If you want a safety USP. If you want the option for a supressor USP. If you need a match trigger for competition shooting, USP Match/SOCOM/Tactical. Otherwise go and try each out at a range and try them all out.
What is this LEM (Law Enforcement Modification) trigger thing?
1. It's a hybrid trigger between DA/SA (Sig tried to replicate this with their DAK trigger). Essentially the slide will "precock" the spring. The trigger pull still has to pull the hammer back (with very light weight), until it hits a critical point where you will feel additional pressure where the gun is basically SA. This point is actually the reset point. The trigger pull is essentally all from that critical point onward. People will call it a DAO but it's really just for safety reason that the hammer has to come all the way back before going into SA mode. This is the main reason why this gun has no safety.
2. Variants: V1 & V2: LEM with V2 with a heavier 8.5 lb. (vs. 5lb) trigger that's ATF approved, V3 is SA/DA with decocker (again, no safety)
3. If storing the gun for a long time, dry fire the trigger to set it in full DAO mode (resets the spring and undoes the "pre-cocked" spring)
4. The trigger can be moddified to the equivalent of the V1 (please consult local laws. This would make your gun illegal in NY): http://www.hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40627
Can the LEM "go off" if dropped?
The hammer needs to come back then forward to disengage. There's actually a mechanism that prevents this from happening. You'll notice the difference after you dry fire it. (try pulling the trigger again afterwards, you'll see). The slide moving back resets it to the 1/2 cocked position, but will not be able to fire in this setting. The hammer needs to come all the way back, and then the trigger needs to release the mechanism to allow the hammer to engage the firing pin. Personally I feel safer with this mechanism than a manual safety with the hammer cocked. If the thumb engaged safty gets hit (sometimes it could), the hammer is already cocked and could disengage. With LEM it will never fire unless some wants it to by pulling the trigger.
Can I dryfire without hurting the pin?
Short answer: yes. However, general best practice consensus is to use snap caps to ensure that there is not a live round chambered and to lessen the overall wear on the gun. Also with the LEM, you'll have to rack the slide back after every shot since there's no live ammo to "pre-cock" the trigger. Otherwise you'll be pulling an insanely hard full DAO trigger which is not the true pressure of the trigger.
Can I "cheat" on the LEM trigger by pulling the trigger where its light and hold at the point where it has resisitance?
Yes. The LEM is actually DA in the sense that the hammer has to come back to fire. That's the "soft" pull on the trigger, and at the point where you feel resistance is the SA portion of the hybrid trigger. Note that this is also the trigger's reset point. Most people who target shoot will aim, pull to that reset point, readjust aim, then squeeze.
So should I get LEM or DA/SA?
While most prefer the LEM as its ideal for carry, ultimately this decision is up to the shooter. One should go to a shop and dry fire both if possible. Most people can get used to the LEM. Others simply hate it. The choice is up to you and what you like best.
Do USP nightsights, barrels, or rail accessories fit the P2000/sk?
No. P2000 nightsights fit the P2000sk. Standard rail accessories fit the P2000/sk.
What about holsters?
There are a lot now, but here's a few highlights... (most will also fit the USPc for the P2000. Some P2000sk ones will work in some USPc holsters). Most P2000 holsters will fit the USPc, but not all USPc holsters will fit the P2000 since the ambi slide lock on the right will get stuck, especially in kydex ones that were not made to fit all variants of the USPc. Always check with the manufacturer's website to be sure.
1. Shoulder Holsters: Galco Miami Classic II, Alessi Bodygard
2. Conceal IWB: comp-tac, Galco
3. Kydex: Galco
4. Tactical: Safariland
Another thread where I was searching for a specific type of IWB holster:
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59572
I can't aim for crap on the P2000sk? Help!
First make sure you have your eye dominance in check with your shooting hand:
Look for an object in the room that's about 10 feet away. With both eyes open, make a circle with your thumbs and your index finger. Surround this object and slide your index finger and thumbs over each other until you completely tightly surround the object with your fingers so you basically see the object inside the hole with both eyes open. Hold your hands there. Close one eye, then switch (basically look at the circle with each eye only, with the other eye closed). You dominant eye should show the object in the circle, and the non-dominant you should see something totally different. Now depending how off your non-dominant eye is from the object, then you can tell to what degree your dominant eye is. If you have to move your circle an inch to the left or right, then it's very dominant. You should be shooting with both eyes in this case, as your dominant eye will skew your aim.
With a long barrel or rifle (or scope) it's a different story as you have a longer line of distance where the brain needs to perceive this as a line (as a flat picture) and only one eye is needed. With short barrels with pistols for short distances, you really need parallax if you have dominant eyes. With near balanced eyes, you could easily shoot with only one eye. With the P2000sk, it's a shorter barrel sight distance and thus parallax is critical to aiming accurately.
![]()
Also note that the P2000/sk sights are European style. Aim the front dot ON TOP of the target. Not at the 6:00 position. Also practice practice practice. Use snap caps to see what mistakes you are making.
Also for more about eyes, aiming, etc. check out these links:
1. Eye Dominance
2. Changing Eye Dominance
3. Front Sight Focus with both eyes open
4. How to learn to keep both eyes open
5. Correcting cross eye dominance
6. Eye Dominance - Vision Plan
Finally don't limp wrist and grip correctly... Like this:
![]()
![]()
Finally, practice, practice, practice. You can download and print these targets that will tell you what you're doing wrong:
Right Handed: Link
Left Handed: Link
Why are casings ejecting straight back at me and hitting my forehead instead of to the side?
1. Stop holding the gun thug/ghetto style (just kidding)
2. Most likely you didn't reassemble the angled locking surfaces on the bottom of the barrel and the recoil spring assembly. Make sure you push it in until it locked in there snugly. This was diagnosed here: http://www.hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?p=372048#post372048
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(continued below - I maxed out the character limit here)
With all the same P2000 and P2000sk questions just flooding this forum, I promised you guys that I'd make an FAQ. Anyways, if there's anything else to add, please feel free to post here to keep this thing going, and the clutter down bigtime. Rookies, please read here, then search, before pushing the post button.
If you find this helpful, rate this accordingly.P2000/sk FAQ:
What are the key differences between the P2000/sk and the USPc?
1. P2000's have no safety - intended to be a service firearm of the German police, it was designed to be carried cocked and loaded with the LEM modification.
2. USP's are full size and compact, while P2000 is a compact and the P2000sk is a sub compact (sub-kompakt)
3. Interchangable backstraps on the grip on the P2000. 4 for the P2000, and 2 for the P2000sk.
4. No o-ring or threaded barrel for the P2000/sk
5. Magazines on the USPc/P2000 and SK are all interchangable. On the SK the USPc/P2000 mag will stick out about an inch, but it's very solid. I use these for my range mags to save my "stock" (flush SK mags) for home. 9mm/40SW mags are the same on the USP/c as the newer mags on the bottom now say USPc/P2000 on them for 40 and 9mm. There's discussions that the lip on the mags for the stock 40 vs. 9mm are different, however this doesn't adversely/negatively affect performance. Rumors stated that getting the 40 SW mags and replacing them with 9mm would yield more capacity, but was confirmed by members here as not the case.
6. In terms of what to buy? If you need ambidexterous P2000. If you want a safety USP. If you want the option for a supressor USP. If you need a match trigger for competition shooting, USP Match/SOCOM/Tactical. Otherwise go and try each out at a range and try them all out.
What is this LEM (Law Enforcement Modification) trigger thing?
1. It's a hybrid trigger between DA/SA (Sig tried to replicate this with their DAK trigger). Essentially the slide will "precock" the spring. The trigger pull still has to pull the hammer back (with very light weight), until it hits a critical point where you will feel additional pressure where the gun is basically SA. This point is actually the reset point. The trigger pull is essentally all from that critical point onward. People will call it a DAO but it's really just for safety reason that the hammer has to come all the way back before going into SA mode. This is the main reason why this gun has no safety.
2. Variants: V1 & V2: LEM with V2 with a heavier 8.5 lb. (vs. 5lb) trigger that's ATF approved, V3 is SA/DA with decocker (again, no safety)
3. If storing the gun for a long time, dry fire the trigger to set it in full DAO mode (resets the spring and undoes the "pre-cocked" spring)
4. The trigger can be moddified to the equivalent of the V1 (please consult local laws. This would make your gun illegal in NY): http://www.hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40627
Can the LEM "go off" if dropped?
The hammer needs to come back then forward to disengage. There's actually a mechanism that prevents this from happening. You'll notice the difference after you dry fire it. (try pulling the trigger again afterwards, you'll see). The slide moving back resets it to the 1/2 cocked position, but will not be able to fire in this setting. The hammer needs to come all the way back, and then the trigger needs to release the mechanism to allow the hammer to engage the firing pin. Personally I feel safer with this mechanism than a manual safety with the hammer cocked. If the thumb engaged safty gets hit (sometimes it could), the hammer is already cocked and could disengage. With LEM it will never fire unless some wants it to by pulling the trigger.
Can I dryfire without hurting the pin?
Short answer: yes. However, general best practice consensus is to use snap caps to ensure that there is not a live round chambered and to lessen the overall wear on the gun. Also with the LEM, you'll have to rack the slide back after every shot since there's no live ammo to "pre-cock" the trigger. Otherwise you'll be pulling an insanely hard full DAO trigger which is not the true pressure of the trigger.
Can I "cheat" on the LEM trigger by pulling the trigger where its light and hold at the point where it has resisitance?
Yes. The LEM is actually DA in the sense that the hammer has to come back to fire. That's the "soft" pull on the trigger, and at the point where you feel resistance is the SA portion of the hybrid trigger. Note that this is also the trigger's reset point. Most people who target shoot will aim, pull to that reset point, readjust aim, then squeeze.
So should I get LEM or DA/SA?
While most prefer the LEM as its ideal for carry, ultimately this decision is up to the shooter. One should go to a shop and dry fire both if possible. Most people can get used to the LEM. Others simply hate it. The choice is up to you and what you like best.
Do USP nightsights, barrels, or rail accessories fit the P2000/sk?
No. P2000 nightsights fit the P2000sk. Standard rail accessories fit the P2000/sk.
What about holsters?
There are a lot now, but here's a few highlights... (most will also fit the USPc for the P2000. Some P2000sk ones will work in some USPc holsters). Most P2000 holsters will fit the USPc, but not all USPc holsters will fit the P2000 since the ambi slide lock on the right will get stuck, especially in kydex ones that were not made to fit all variants of the USPc. Always check with the manufacturer's website to be sure.
1. Shoulder Holsters: Galco Miami Classic II, Alessi Bodygard
2. Conceal IWB: comp-tac, Galco
3. Kydex: Galco
4. Tactical: Safariland
Another thread where I was searching for a specific type of IWB holster:
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59572
I can't aim for crap on the P2000sk? Help!
First make sure you have your eye dominance in check with your shooting hand:
Look for an object in the room that's about 10 feet away. With both eyes open, make a circle with your thumbs and your index finger. Surround this object and slide your index finger and thumbs over each other until you completely tightly surround the object with your fingers so you basically see the object inside the hole with both eyes open. Hold your hands there. Close one eye, then switch (basically look at the circle with each eye only, with the other eye closed). You dominant eye should show the object in the circle, and the non-dominant you should see something totally different. Now depending how off your non-dominant eye is from the object, then you can tell to what degree your dominant eye is. If you have to move your circle an inch to the left or right, then it's very dominant. You should be shooting with both eyes in this case, as your dominant eye will skew your aim.
With a long barrel or rifle (or scope) it's a different story as you have a longer line of distance where the brain needs to perceive this as a line (as a flat picture) and only one eye is needed. With short barrels with pistols for short distances, you really need parallax if you have dominant eyes. With near balanced eyes, you could easily shoot with only one eye. With the P2000sk, it's a shorter barrel sight distance and thus parallax is critical to aiming accurately.
Also note that the P2000/sk sights are European style. Aim the front dot ON TOP of the target. Not at the 6:00 position. Also practice practice practice. Use snap caps to see what mistakes you are making.
Also for more about eyes, aiming, etc. check out these links:
1. Eye Dominance
2. Changing Eye Dominance
3. Front Sight Focus with both eyes open
4. How to learn to keep both eyes open
5. Correcting cross eye dominance
6. Eye Dominance - Vision Plan
Finally don't limp wrist and grip correctly... Like this:
Finally, practice, practice, practice. You can download and print these targets that will tell you what you're doing wrong:
Right Handed: Link
Left Handed: Link
Why are casings ejecting straight back at me and hitting my forehead instead of to the side?
1. Stop holding the gun thug/ghetto style (just kidding)
2. Most likely you didn't reassemble the angled locking surfaces on the bottom of the barrel and the recoil spring assembly. Make sure you push it in until it locked in there snugly. This was diagnosed here: http://www.hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?p=372048#post372048
(continued below - I maxed out the character limit here)
