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4,145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
NOTICE: As I'm leaving the P2000sk and going to USPc DA/SA (Variant 1), I will no longer be maintaining this FAQ. However, whatever finds you do have, just freely reply to this thread if it's relevant. Thanks! (I'm not hating on the LEM/P2000/sk, its just I have come to some personal preferences in terms of going USP, which are discussed in this thread)

With all the same P2000 and P2000sk questions just flooding this forum, I promised you guys that I'd make an FAQ. Anyways, if there's anything else to add, please feel free to post here to keep this thing going, and the clutter down bigtime. Rookies, please read here, then search, before pushing the post button. :p If you find this helpful, rate this accordingly.

P2000/sk FAQ:

What are the key differences between the P2000/sk and the USPc?
1. P2000's have no safety - intended to be a service firearm of the German police, it was designed to be carried cocked and loaded with the LEM modification.
2. USP's are full size and compact, while P2000 is a compact and the P2000sk is a sub compact (sub-kompakt)
3. Interchangable backstraps on the grip on the P2000. 4 for the P2000, and 2 for the P2000sk.
4. No o-ring or threaded barrel for the P2000/sk
5. Magazines on the USPc/P2000 and SK are all interchangable. On the SK the USPc/P2000 mag will stick out about an inch, but it's very solid. I use these for my range mags to save my "stock" (flush SK mags) for home. 9mm/40SW mags are the same on the USP/c as the newer mags on the bottom now say USPc/P2000 on them for 40 and 9mm. There's discussions that the lip on the mags for the stock 40 vs. 9mm are different, however this doesn't adversely/negatively affect performance. Rumors stated that getting the 40 SW mags and replacing them with 9mm would yield more capacity, but was confirmed by members here as not the case.
6. In terms of what to buy? If you need ambidexterous P2000. If you want a safety USP. If you want the option for a supressor USP. If you need a match trigger for competition shooting, USP Match/SOCOM/Tactical. Otherwise go and try each out at a range and try them all out.

What is this LEM (Law Enforcement Modification) trigger thing?
1. It's a hybrid trigger between DA/SA (Sig tried to replicate this with their DAK trigger). Essentially the slide will "precock" the spring. The trigger pull still has to pull the hammer back (with very light weight), until it hits a critical point where you will feel additional pressure where the gun is basically SA. This point is actually the reset point. The trigger pull is essentally all from that critical point onward. People will call it a DAO but it's really just for safety reason that the hammer has to come all the way back before going into SA mode. This is the main reason why this gun has no safety.
2. Variants: V1 & V2: LEM with V2 with a heavier 8.5 lb. (vs. 5lb) trigger that's ATF approved, V3 is SA/DA with decocker (again, no safety)
3. If storing the gun for a long time, dry fire the trigger to set it in full DAO mode (resets the spring and undoes the "pre-cocked" spring)
4. The trigger can be moddified to the equivalent of the V1 (please consult local laws. This would make your gun illegal in NY):

Can the LEM "go off" if dropped?
The hammer needs to come back then forward to disengage. There's actually a mechanism that prevents this from happening. You'll notice the difference after you dry fire it. (try pulling the trigger again afterwards, you'll see). The slide moving back resets it to the 1/2 cocked position, but will not be able to fire in this setting. The hammer needs to come all the way back, and then the trigger needs to release the mechanism to allow the hammer to engage the firing pin. Personally I feel safer with this mechanism than a manual safety with the hammer cocked. If the thumb engaged safty gets hit (sometimes it could), the hammer is already cocked and could disengage. With LEM it will never fire unless some wants it to by pulling the trigger.

Can I dryfire without hurting the pin?
Short answer: yes. However, general best practice consensus is to use snap caps to ensure that there is not a live round chambered and to lessen the overall wear on the gun. Also with the LEM, you'll have to rack the slide back after every shot since there's no live ammo to "pre-cock" the trigger. Otherwise you'll be pulling an insanely hard full DAO trigger which is not the true pressure of the trigger.

Can I "cheat" on the LEM trigger by pulling the trigger where its light and hold at the point where it has resisitance?
Yes. The LEM is actually DA in the sense that the hammer has to come back to fire. That's the "soft" pull on the trigger, and at the point where you feel resistance is the SA portion of the hybrid trigger. Note that this is also the trigger's reset point. Most people who target shoot will aim, pull to that reset point, readjust aim, then squeeze.

So should I get LEM or DA/SA?
While most prefer the LEM as its ideal for carry, ultimately this decision is up to the shooter. One should go to a shop and dry fire both if possible. Most people can get used to the LEM. Others simply hate it. The choice is up to you and what you like best.

Do USP nightsights, barrels, or rail accessories fit the P2000/sk?
No. P2000 nightsights fit the P2000sk. Standard rail accessories fit the P2000/sk.

What about holsters?
There are a lot now, but here's a few highlights... (most will also fit the USPc for the P2000. Some P2000sk ones will work in some USPc holsters). Most P2000 holsters will fit the USPc, but not all USPc holsters will fit the P2000 since the ambi slide lock on the right will get stuck, especially in kydex ones that were not made to fit all variants of the USPc. Always check with the manufacturer's website to be sure.
1. Shoulder Holsters: Galco Miami Classic II, Alessi Bodygard
2. Conceal IWB: comp-tac, Galco
3. Kydex: Galco
4. Tactical: Safariland
Another thread where I was searching for a specific type of IWB holster:

I can't aim for crap on the P2000sk? Help!
First make sure you have your eye dominance in check with your shooting hand:
Look for an object in the room that's about 10 feet away. With both eyes open, make a circle with your thumbs and your index finger. Surround this object and slide your index finger and thumbs over each other until you completely tightly surround the object with your fingers so you basically see the object inside the hole with both eyes open. Hold your hands there. Close one eye, then switch (basically look at the circle with each eye only, with the other eye closed). You dominant eye should show the object in the circle, and the non-dominant you should see something totally different. Now depending how off your non-dominant eye is from the object, then you can tell to what degree your dominant eye is. If you have to move your circle an inch to the left or right, then it's very dominant. You should be shooting with both eyes in this case, as your dominant eye will skew your aim.

With a long barrel or rifle (or scope) it's a different story as you have a longer line of distance where the brain needs to perceive this as a line (as a flat picture) and only one eye is needed. With short barrels with pistols for short distances, you really need parallax if you have dominant eyes. With near balanced eyes, you could easily shoot with only one eye. With the P2000sk, it's a shorter barrel sight distance and thus parallax is critical to aiming accurately.

Also note that the P2000/sk sights are European style. Aim the front dot ON TOP of the target. Not at the 6:00 position. Also practice practice practice. Use snap caps to see what mistakes you are making.

Also for more about eyes, aiming, etc. check out these links:
1. Eye Dominance
2. Changing Eye Dominance
3. Front Sight Focus with both eyes open
4. How to learn to keep both eyes open
5. Correcting cross eye dominance
6. Eye Dominance - Vision Plan

Finally don't limp wrist and grip correctly... Like this:

Finally, practice, practice, practice. You can download and print these targets that will tell you what you're doing wrong:
Right Handed: Link
Left Handed: Link

Why are casings ejecting straight back at me and hitting my forehead instead of to the side?
1. Stop holding the gun thug/ghetto style (just kidding)
2. Most likely you didn't reassemble the angled locking surfaces on the bottom of the barrel and the recoil spring assembly. Make sure you push it in until it locked in there snugly. This was diagnosed here:

(continued below - I maxed out the character limit here)

4,145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·

How do I switch the backstrap?
Get a brass or nylon punch, and gently hammer the lanyard pin out. 3.32 brass punch is what some members have used with success. Try not to use a steel punch.

Can the P2000/sk take the same kind of abuse the USP can?
Yes. In fact it's been stress tested by Greg Bell. You can see his thread on his test here:

Any suggestions on a mag loader? I wish I can load my mags faster!
Yes, I posted a review of the Maglula's UpLULA here:

I bought USP/c & P2000 mags for my P2000sk. I don't like the gap between the grip and the mag. Is there anything I can do? Anything similar to the funnel kit for the USP?
You're in luck. You can now order the X-Grip from HK directly:
They're $15 each from HK (Part number: 702539)

How do I switch my mag bottoms to the flat "flush" one using the $6 kit?
Take a bullet, push the little button on the bottom, and slide the floorplate off by pushing the floorplate towards the front of the gun.
But try to keep pressure on the spring that's directly behind the floorplate as you take the fplate off. Usually, those can end up shooting across the room if you don't ease the spring out manually. On these smaller mags, it's less of a problem.
Photos by Ken Lunde (lunde) - Used with Permission

Can I shoot +P in my SK? It says not to on page 20 in the manual.
You can shoot +P (as the gun was designed to as a service firearm shooting stuff like gold dots). HK just don't recommend shooting it exclusively (ie: all the time) as it will wear the gun more over time. Think of it as getting a car with turbo. Yes it's fine and will work as designed. However, the engine will wear down faster than normal than a car without turbo (or a person with a heavy foot for that matter). Think of +P the same. More power, faster rate of wear, but the gun can handle it fine. If you want to practice shooting +P rounds, but don't want the wear, try the Speer Lawman. They have practice rounds that are designed to replicate the recoil of the +P gold dots without a +P charge. Thus you get the practice of handling the recoil of +P without putting the wear of shooting +P charges in your SK.

Why does the slide close after the last round is fired?
1. Check your grip - limp wristing, thumb riding the slide lock (usually always the case)
2. Make sure the angled locking surfaces are notched and pressed in correctly as in the above question.
3. Last resort is the mag spring may be too soft. Some have recommended wolf springs
4. Also This most likely happens with the mags with the pinky finger rest. What is actually happening is that you're exerting a lot of downward force on the mag. This downward force is just enough to move the lip of the mag by about 2mm downward, which is just enough to prevent the slide from staying open. A possible option is to ease your grip to a sqeeze, rather than a choke (which is what is exerting the downward force). In other words, evenly apply your grip across all your fingers rather than most of the force being on your 4th finger and pinky.

Cleaning instructions:
Part I:
Part II:

What about a laser/flashlight options for the P2000sk?
The rail is fairly small, but Insight X2 fits perfectly, and has options for just flashlight only or the laser and flashlight combo. It looks like this on the gun:

More info:
I personally own the X2 and love it. Mind you you can't have the light off and the laser on, but what I did is removed the light bulb as the laser will still light up (it also saves the batteries). It can be had for ~$170 if you look online, and for that price is cheaper than just the rail laser alone from other manufacturers. Plus it will fit on most other standard rail pistols as well. I used it to improve my trigger control while I dry fire so I know if I'm pulling, flinching, etc.
EDIT: I've sold this. Main reason being that it's a bit wobbly on the rail as this X2 has a tighter fit on the Glocks. I tried it on a Sig and it's also wobby there. Also the switch mechanism is fairly weak. After 1-2 shots the vibration from the slide movement turns the switch off (might have something to do with being a tad wobbly? I don't know). I found this incredibly annoying after awhile and had corrected my trigger technique so sold it off.

Are there extended or threaded barrels? Can the P2000 barrel fit the SK?
No and no. For the P2000 in the SK, won't work as the spring and locking notches won't line up. If you want extended or threaded, stick with the USP. The P2000/sk were designed as service pistols, not tactical weapons.

Is it ok to leave rounds in the mag for extended periods of time?
YES. Check this out: LINK
Magazine spring madness: 'creep' to your 'elastic limit' to un-earth the urban legend of 'spring-set'
John S. Layman

The shooting sports are full of some of the most knowledgeable and capable people you'll meet anywhere. I've been impressed consistently with the abilities of those I meet at the range to diagnose and fix a gun problem with as little as some spray lube and a cotton swab. However, sometimes a myth will creep into the folklore.

The magazine spring myth has been around for many years and is growing in popularity. It goes something like this: "You should unload your magazines when they're not in use or the spring will weaken causing failures to feed." This has gone as far as shooting competitors actually unloading their magazines between stages to extend the life of their springs. A variant of this myth is: "You should never load a magazine to capacity and should always leave it one round short." What if you need that round some day?

Recently, I read an article in a gun magazine suggesting you rotate your magazines so the ones not in use can "recover and rest." The same author uses the phrase "spring-set" to describe weakness of a spring because it was compressed for a long time. Hogwash. There's nothing further from the truth. Springs don't care how long they're compressed and don't require rest, recreation or even a vacation from time to time.

Shameful Spring Benders

To put this one to rest, you have to understand creep. Creep is the slow flow of a non-ferric metal like copper, brass and lead under force. At temperatures outside of a furnace, steel doesn't have any appreciable creep. Under most conditions, steel flexes and then returns to its original shape. When pushed past its elastic limit, steel will bend and not return to its original shape. All designers of well-made magazines make sure the spring never approaches the elastic limit when the magazine is fully loaded. Honest. This means the spring will not weaken when the magazine is fully loaded -- not even over an extended time. Like 50 years. American Handgunner recently ran a story about a magazine full of .45 ACP that had been sitting since WWII and it ran just fine on the first try. So there you go.
While is down, here's some other useful resources on gunlaws and CCW laws, as the P2000sk is ideal for CCW:

NOTICE: As I'm leaving the P2000sk and going to USPc DA/SA (Variant 1), I will no longer be maintaining this FAQ. However, whatever finds you do have, just freely reply to this thread if it's relevant. Thanks! (I'm not hating on the LEM/P2000/sk, its just I have come to some personal preferences in terms of going USP, which are discussed in this thread)

Don't fret, my P2000sk Range report is available HERE and take a look at my comparison of the USPc vs. P2000sk

And finally:

52 Posts
So just to be clear, as far as the United States is concerned, only V2 and V3 are available for the P2000sk. V2 is the "LEM" which mimics DAO and has a trigger pull of 8.5 pounds.

V1 is not available in the U.S. but has a trigger pull of 5 pounds. To convert one's V2 P2000sk trigger pull to the V1's 5 pounds, just follow the instructions here.

Are the above statements accurate?

41 Posts
Austin -

You are correct as far as the V1/V2 P2KSK in the US. I have my P2KSK set up with the light TRS (HK Parts #209266) and the 'new style' FPBS (HK Parts #209296) with a standard LEM (heavy/16#) HS. I installed those 2 springs myself with no issues. The trigger breaks EXACTLY at 5# 10 times out of 10 according to the scale. I've been carrying it for about 2 years and is quickly became my fav after converting to the V1. Hope this helps.

lakeland - GO WINGS!!!! going to be up late tonight!

199 Posts
I think this belongs in this FAQ: I received some questions from a few folks on this forum about how I came to own a V1. Well, I ended up having to call HK so that they could locate a dealer in my area that would be willing to essentially special order the V1. Once found, the dealer sent in the request for the V1 and HK took a V2 off the factory floor and modified it to a V1 before shipping it onto the dealer. Inside the case, it still says V2, but they included the internal factory paperwork showing it was modded to a V1.

137 Posts
Here are a few tidbits from my recent research I didn't see mentioned here:

1. There are also now X-grip adapters for the use of 15 round P30 and VP9 mags in the P2000SK.
2. The HK part #'s for the springs to go from V2 to V1 are: 209266 (TRS), and 209296 (FPB spring).
3. Other available upgrades/options with HK parts to the P2000SK are:
a. HK nickel plated match sear flat spring (215691),
b. HK 45C extended mag release lever (234270),
c. HK 45C slim slide release levers.
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