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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just finished her up...after have parts sitting around in boxes & bins for a few years,I decided to make something out of it,as cheap as possible.

I have successfully made a Mutt from an assortment of Cetme,Hk,Century and my own handmade parts and some other misc stuff.








I found a Muzzle brake on a Mauser barrel I had never used,much to my suprise,it was theaded 15x1.

I landed the sar8 stock set from AK.I did some reshaping and refinished the buttstock via Black spray-on bedliner.I origially puchased a Falcon made Psg-1 style grip from Midway...but I hated it.So I sent that back and traded for the Unmentionable Promag Hk copy bipod.I actually like it,after I recut the detents for a more positive lock up against the forearm and pinched the pivot "ears" together to remove some wobble.
I attached it to the forearm with two long machine screws after drilling out and tapping the holes.I welded a steel "eyelet" to the underside of the cocking tube to attach the forearm to.

I also machined of the rear sight and left off the triple...so the barrel is "free" floating.I drilled and tapped the receiver for a scope base and installed a scope I had that was collecting dust. I may change it to a Weaver Grandslam system later (marlin 336).

I set the barrel in and drilled it out for the cross pin.I set the bolt gap to mid specs.I played around with the trigger parts to get a better trigger pull with minimum creep.I also added the paddle release buy using the original parts(paddle,bushing,pin) and a solid pin made to fit inside the original pin.With the receiver drilled and everthing installed and held in place by the small pin.I welded the pin holes over and machined off the welds.

I also didn't "clip and pin" the trigger housing...I chose to weld the pin holes closed,but left the ears.

All in all....Spare parts and a little time...made me a nice plinker.
 

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Looks good. You gotta love the junk bin / buttom drawer / mutt builds like that, cause they don't really cost anything and and you just have fun with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
nice, now you need to drop a sear in that bad boy.
with all the modifacations and parts replaced to make this a "legal" semi-auto only....There is no way to ever go back to a full auto set-up.With the price of ammo on the rise,I have no wish to own a full-auto even though it would be real fun......:55:
 

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with all the modifacations and parts replaced to make this a "legal" semi-auto only....There is no way to ever go back to a full auto set-up.With the price of ammo on the rise,I have no wish to own a full-auto even though it would be real fun......:55:
Thats why you get the Dillon 1050 have fun
 

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You welded up the holes on the trigger housing, but does it have a full-auto pack inside?

Housings that fit semi-auto receivers even with the holes aren't a problem, full auto packs that do the same are.

But regardless, that's a great build. I love taking a bunch of "worthless" junk and making something useful out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You welded up the holes on the trigger housing, but does it have a full-auto pack inside?

Housings that fit semi-auto receivers even with the holes aren't a problem, full auto packs that do the same are.

But regardless, that's a great build. I love taking a bunch of "worthless" junk and making something useful out of it.
Nope....It's all been converted to semi-auto. only,and has been cut for the receiver shelf.Full auto parts have been removed and it has a different hammer and trigger and selector.Plus a groove has been cut in the bolt carrier to further keep it from being Full auto.

I welded the holes because...clipping the ears off looks terrible and putting "fake" pin sections in the holes is just for show and open holes makes it look like something is missing. ;)
 

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Nope....It's all been converted to semi-auto. only,and has been cut for the receiver shelf.Full auto parts have been removed and it has a different hammer and trigger and selector.Plus a groove has been cut in the bolt carrier to further keep it from being Full auto.

I welded the holes because...clipping the ears off looks terrible and putting "fake" pin sections in the holes is just for show and open holes makes it look like something is missing. ;)
I am under the impression that if you have cut the front lower corner of a full auto pack, you can get into deep doo-doo even without the f/a carrier, hammer or selector.

Whether anyone would notice is a different issue, but I think having a full-auto trigger assembly box that has been modified to fit a semi-shelf is a bad idea unless you also weld up the catch hole and relocate the sear spring hole to the semi-auto position.

Since the full-auto parts can be very easily replaced, they would constitute an illegal machine gun conversion device, and I think the pack housing is the key element.
 

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Theres a ATF letter to someone, I can't remember who, that states that as long as you cut the pack back so far, remove the sear, grind of the sear notch on the hammer and install the semi-auto pin and spring. Your good to go.
 

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Theres a ATF letter to someone, I can't remember who, that states that as long as you cut the pack back so far, remove the sear, grind of the sear notch on the hammer and install the semi-auto pin and spring. Your good to go.
I think I know the one you're talking about, at least, I've seen one similar. The one I'm thinking of stated that you have to cut it back so far that you cut out the axle hole for the catch so that it cannot be reinstalled. What the ATF is looking for is how easy it is to convert it back to full auto. If it only takes swapping out some parts, carrier, hammer, catch, trip lever, etc, then you are asking for trouble if you are ever checked. You must modify the pack housing so that it is not possible to put the full auto parts back in, and of course, it takes nothing to swap a full-auto carrier back in.

Edit:

Ah yes, here it is, on investmentgradefirearms. #3 and #4 are the applicable steps, and it details what I was talking about - cutting it back .540" and .410" up completely removes the factory catch pivot hole (what they call the "sear"), and the new hole in step 4 is the location of the factory semi-auto sear spring hole. And yes, if you only remove the parts but leave the original hole, you have created an unregistered machine gun conversion device.

This is a quote from Jayson in investmentgradefirearms.com:


"
The following is the written response I received from the B.A.T.F. regarding various methods of converting a G3 trigger pack to semi auto only. The main question I had was if it would be legal to weld over or weld a piece of round stock into the existing auto sear pin hole (with the auto parts removed of course) which would eliminate the possibility of installing the automatic fire control parts.​

Department of the Treasury
Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Washington, DC 20226
Sept 28, 2001​

Mr. Jason Cotter
Mountain Home, AR 72653

Dear Mr. Cotter
This is in reply to your letter in which you have requested proper procedure for modifying a Heckler and Koch G-3 machinegun trigger, into a semiautomatic trigger.
To properly convert a G-3 machinegun trigger into a semiautomatic only trigger there are several modifications needed. The modifications are listed as follows:
1. Remove the automatic sear.
2. Grind off the automatic sear notch from the face of the hammer
3. Cut away the front corner of the trigger housing where the automatic sear is mounted, .410-inch from the bottom and .540 inch from the front towards the rear.
4. A new hole has to be drilled to accommodate the trigger spring. The hole dimension is .200 inch drill that hole .165 inch from the front of the new corner and .250 from the bottom of the new corner. These dimensions are for the center of the hole.
5. The trigger spring should be replaced with a semiautomatic trigger spring but the G-3 trigger spring will work.
6. The trigger over travel stop has to be moved towards the rear tang of the trigger .150-inch
-2-
Mr. Jason Cotter
7. It will also be necessary to modify the trigger housing. Modify the housing by cutting off the tabs for the front assembly pin. Then adjust the fit of the housing into the receiver.
Title 26, United States code, Chapter 53, section 5845 (b), defines the term machinegun as any weapon which shoots, is designed to shoot, or can be readily restored to shoot, automatically more than one shot without manual reloading with a single function of the trigger. The term shall also include the frame or receiver of any such weapon, any part designed and intended solely and exclusively, or combination of parts from which a machinegun can be assembled if such parts are in possession or under control of a person.
If you do not properly modify the G-3 machinegun trigger pack and install it in your semi automatic rifle, and that weapon fires more than one shot automatically with a single function of the trigger, you would be in possession of an unregistered machinegun.
We trust that the foregoing has been responsive to your inquiry. If we can be of any further assistance, please contact us.

Sincerely yours,
Curtis Bartlett
Chief Firearms Technology Branch

"
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
As I stated before...This is a permanent conversion.There is no way of ever re-installing the full auto parts.The trigger group "box" has been cut for the shelf,which removed the whole area where the auto sear/pin would be located and a "plate" welded into that position to rest on the receiver shelf.

This is how 99 % of all builds are done.
The other 1% way is installing a factory HK semi-auto trigger group.
 

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As I stated before...This is a permanent conversion.There is no way of ever re-installing the full auto parts.The trigger group "box" has been cut for the shelf,which removed the whole area where the auto sear/pin would be located and a "plate" welded into that position to rest on the receiver shelf.

This is how 99 % of all builds are done.
The other 1% way is installing a factory HK semi-auto trigger group.
Ok, just wanted to be sure. You did say it was a permanent conversion, but permanent means different things to different people. I've bought several used packs before that had the notch cut for the shelf that did not take out the catch pivot hole and had obviously been used illegally until I had them fitted for my registered sears.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, just wanted to be sure. You did say it was a permanent conversion, but permanent means different things to different people. I've bought several used packs before that had the notch cut for the shelf that did not take out the catch pivot hole and had obviously been used illegally until I had them fitted for my registered sears.
I thank you for being concerned that it was actually done correctly....your right,you never know what might be out there.
 

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Hehe...It's funny you mention that....I have never reloaded any ammo.But I always keep all my old cases ,just in case I decide to some day.
I broke down the other day and got a 550, and within three hours I pumped out over 700 rounds of 40 S&W, its easy and fun. Wal-Mart sells 40 S&W $22 per 100 plus tax. The bullets I made cost about $4.50 per 50.
Keep saving your brass.
 
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