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Discussion Starter #1
Just took this HK93 rifle home. Don't know much about it at, other than it shoots well (a couple magazines of XM193). From the pictures below can anyone help identify if there is anything special about it? Also - can anyone suggest a gunsmith/cerakote applicator that could help me restore the finish? It's my plan to replace some of the plastic parts and refinish the metal to bring it back to life. I would also like to consider changing the trigger housing out for a plastic model, maybe this would remove some of the rattle? Any suggestions to reduce the magazine rattle?






 

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Congrats on your purchase, the HK93 is a great rifle.

I would first determine your bolt gap and make sure everything is in spec.

http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-reference-library/56875-bolt-assembly-bolt-gap-instructions.html

For refinish:

Member - ghilliebear2000 - Jeff Walters. He can trouble shoot any issues that you're having and then refinish. Give him a call: 918-696-8715, 918-781-3939

Member - gunplumber - Arizona Response Systems, LLC. Home Page. Products & Services for the Armed Professional. Can do the refinish just like HK, but he does not do cerakote. He too can take care of any problems that you're having.

The plastic trigger housing does look good, but will not do anything for a loose mag well. ARS can take care of that too.

Best,

TC
 

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Also, make sure that your A3 retractable stock has a buffer if the bolt carrier is non buffered, which I would expect with the "lC" or '82 date code. Your A2 fixed stock is buffered. If your having trouble determining the buffer status, post some pictures of the interior of the stocks and the back of the bolt carrier.

Best,

TC
 

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A few notes to get you started:

Manuals:
Manual for the HK93: http://stevespages.com/pdf/hk_93.pdf
Armor's Manual for G3 (in 308 and full auto but similar to HK93): http://www.ar15.com/content/manuals/G3_Armorer_Manual.pdf

Sight Adjustment:
How to adjust your sights (link is for HK91, however, ~2" high at 100 yrds is go start for the "2" setting with XM193) http://mg-42.net/sight_adj.htm
For adjusting your sights can use a hemostat ($5 at gun shows) instead of the HK tool:
http://www.issmc.com/jt/images/hk_notes/index.html
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-clone-talk/139990-how-adjust-sights-pictures-ptr91.html

How to measure bolt gap:
http://164.58.173.38/hot51/hot51.com/headspace.htm
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-reference-library/56875-bolt-assembly-bolt-gap-instructions.html (this one has already been posted)
Photos of bolt gap at: http://www.issmc.com/jt/images/hk_notes/index.html

General FAQs:
Robert RTG HK FAQ: http://www.robertrtg.com/g3qa.html

Buffered Carrier vs Non Buffered Carrier
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-nfa-talk/89180-difference-between-hk-93-33-carriers-will-work-ok.html
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-long-...w-i-have-real-one-too-but-have-questions.html

A3 Stock With and With Out Buffer:
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-long-gun-talk/145512-german-hk-93-a3-stock-without-buffer.html
With Buffer: http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/catalog/hk93a3stock-3_1033_detail.jpg

Extra Parts:
I would recommend having two extra extractor springs, as these due fail (anytime you cases are not thrown down range and/or you can move the extractor by finger, time to check and replace). You change the extractor spring by rotating the spring with a punch.

Two of many places to get parts:
Robert RTG: http://www.robertrtg.com
HK Parts: http://www.hkparts.net

Cleaning:
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-long-gun-talk/145005-how-clean-h-k-really-quick.html
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-rookie-corner/146992-cleaning-my-hk-93-a.html
Chamber face brush at: http://www.elmfg.com/store/brushes.html#Anchor-46919
 

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If you are sending it out to be refinished. You may want to add the paddle mag release. Once you have it you can't do without.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow, thanks for all of the responses. I am thinking of just sending it out to one of the memebers/smiths mentioned above and asking to have the gun inspected, paddle added, and refinished. Also I failed to mention it seems like the lower grip assembly (metal) is a little loose. Would replacing it with a plastic one tighten it up?
 

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Wow, thanks for all of the responses. I am thinking of just sending it out to one of the memebers/smiths mentioned above and asking to have the gun inspected, paddle added, and refinished. Also I failed to mention it seems like the lower grip assembly (metal) is a little loose. Would replacing it with a plastic one tighten it up?
I would take everything apart and clean, in particular the chamber and bore, then do a little more shooting to see how it shoots and groups with a couple different types of ammo. While like the Federal XM193 I am finding that some lots are not that accurate, with groupings of over 2 MOA using scoped rifles that shoot under a MOA. What is even more surprising is the Wolf 55gr ammo has been shooting close to a MOA under the same conditions. My control "low cost ammo" is Federal American Eagle in the Red Box (FMJ but use to not be the M193). Reason for doing the testing now is that if you ever needed to have a barrel replaced, then when you send it out for a refinish it the perfect time. Note would consider having the A3 stock refinished at the same time.

Note if just the plastic grip is loose, look for a screw to tighten up, if the whole plastic grip and trigger housing / frame (part the comes off and has the trigger pack in it) is loose, then would check with the HK smith of your choice, if you are sending it off anyway.

Have heard good about both smiths listed (I have close friend now days that does my work, since Terry is semi retired, excluding what I get from Mike and his team), I would check on the delivery time of the project as good HK smiths tend to get back logged (i.e. in the old days that could mean years ;-). I know that Jeff has been getting great reports on turn around time, pricing and quality of work.
 

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Get with ghillie. The ceracoat company rep I talked to on Friday tells me they need the gun completely disassembled.. that's OK for me because I want my new nitrided barrel installed anyway and I don't want it bead blasted and ceracoated but the rest of the gun will be
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
10-4 any other HK smiths out there to suggest? Blitzkreig, your comment answers my next question. I want the entire thing coated, that said I assume someone needs to take this thing pretty far apart right? Same with the A3 stock, would they have to take it entirely apart?

Add - the bipod is naturally pretty loose right? too me it seems like more of a annoyance than anything, it doesn't neatly fold up. Is there a similar wide for end available without the bipod grooves?
 

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10-4 any other HK smiths out there to suggest? Blitzkreig, your comment answers my next question. I want the entire thing coated, that said I assume someone needs to take this thing pretty far apart right? Same with the A3 stock, would they have to take it entirely apart?

Add - the bipod is naturally pretty loose right? too me it seems like more of a annoyance than anything, it doesn't neatly fold up. Is there a similar wide for end available without the bipod grooves?
I would have them disassemble the stock for the refinish to ensure adequate coverage.

What is wrong with the bipod? Does it not stay locked up to the forearm? Could be aftermarket.

That is the only wide forearm, but there are other slim line and railed versions available.

HK93 Slim handguard for all HK 93 HK33 T43 and G3K rifles, MKE, RTG Gun Parts



Best,

TC
 

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10-4 any other HK smiths out there to suggest? Blitzkreig, your comment answers my next question. I want the entire thing coated, that said I assume someone needs to take this thing pretty far apart right? Same with the A3 stock, would they have to take it entirely apart?

Add - the bipod is naturally pretty loose right? too me it seems like more of a annoyance than anything, it doesn't neatly fold up. Is there a similar wide for end available without the bipod grooves?
Yes it has to be completely disassembled and yes the factory bipod on my A3 7.62 G3 type is loose, it needs to be so it swivels in the groove. Now if it comes out on it's own, you got issues
 
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