[TheCommander]

Howdy peeps! I got a new MKE AT-94K and put an SP89 handguard on it. Took it to the range and it ran fine with the factory MKE mag. A few rounds into a Korean made mag and it stopped firing. At first I thought it was a failure to feed or bad ammo. After pulling the cocking handle back just enough a few times then firing, I realized the trigger was not fully going all the way forward. I had to flick it forward and manually reset it each time I shot. This was now the case with the MKE mag as well. Not what I expected out of a weapon system of this price.

I called the ATI warranty hotline and they were completely worthless with their shipping requests and turnaround time of more than a month. This is certainly not my first rodeo with a firearm, so I pulled out the trigger pack, cleaned & oiled it, filed the trigger hole in the lower for better trigger clearance, then put the pack back in the lower. With the trigger pulled, I bring back the hammer, let the trigger go and get a crunchy feeling. Seems like the friction of the sear spring roller against the sear is the culprit.

So when I put the whole thing together, hold the trigger down, pull the cocking handle back and let it go, the trigger gets stuck halfway. With no finger on the trigger, cocking handle cycled, trigger pulls back and lets go with no problems. I would rather just get parts from RTG and do the job myself. Any ideas what I should get besides a new sear spring and sear? Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Guyver]

I pulled the MKE trigger pack, removed the hammer spring and ejector, and threw the rest of the pack in a drawer, pulled out a PTR Trigger pack (I got this in a trade), which uses german parts, ordered the US made PTR trigger, sear, and Hammer.... I know you don't need to, but it might help in the future anyway if you go for an SBR. The cost is $90ish including shipping.

I took 2000 grit sand paper to the contact points on the Sear to polish them a little, (ok, more than a little), replaced the .308 ejector and hammer spring with the 9mm ones from the original MKE trigger pack, lubed and assembled. The trigger is flawless.

I also replaced the Grip with the US made grip from HKParts. With the new Grip and the new selector from the PTR trigger pack, it really improved the overall performance of everything. The selector doesn't take 20lbs of force to rotate, like the MKE did. The trigger is like budda, no gritty feeling at all, like the MKE had, and It's 4 pieces to 922r compliance.... It's a win-win.

So, the moral of the story, at least in my case... The entire MKE grip pack that comes from the factory, is junk.... I spent a little time and money replacing it, and I haven't looked back.

 

[BIG50]

you can send it to me I will do one of my fancy dancy trigger jobs to it and it will be smooth as glass.
BIG50

Howdy peeps! I got a new MKE AT-94K and put an SP89 handguard on it. Took it to the range and it ran fine with the factory MKE mag. A few rounds into a Korean made mag and it stopped firing. At first I thought it was a failure to feed or bad ammo. After pulling the cocking handle back just enough a few times then firing, I realized the trigger was not fully going all the way forward. I had to flick it forward and manually reset it each time I shot. This was now the case with the MKE mag as well. Not what I expected out of a weapon system of this price.

I called the ATI warranty hotline and they were completely worthless with their shipping requests and turnaround time of more than a month. This is certainly not my first rodeo with a firearm, so I pulled out the trigger pack, cleaned & oiled it, filed the trigger hole in the lower for better trigger clearance, then put the pack back in the lower. With the trigger pulled, I bring back the hammer, let the trigger go and get a crunchy feeling. Seems like the friction of the sear spring roller against the sear is the culprit.

So when I put the whole thing together, hold the trigger down, pull the cocking handle back and let it go, the trigger gets stuck halfway. With no finger on the trigger, cocking handle cycled, trigger pulls back and lets go with no problems. I would rather just get parts from RTG and do the job myself. Any ideas what I should get besides a new sear spring and sear? Any help would be appreciated!

 

[TheCommander]

So I used Guyver's advice and sanded and polished the bottom side of the sear. I figure if I messed it up I could still get a new one pretty cheaply. The trigger now actually lets out and I don't need to flick it forward. This is only dry firing but I imagine it will do the same at the range.

you can send it to me I will do one of my fancy dancy trigger jobs to it and it will be smooth as glass.
BIG50

Any tips or pointers on what to do as far as smoothing the trigger? It's still pretty gritty compared to other platforms out there. I might just order some RTG parts and/or polish/sand the FCG and see what I can improve here and there.

 

[Guyver]

Polish all of the contact points of the Trigger, sear, and hammer.
Espicially the top side of the cutout on the sear.

Not too much though, I wouldn't use anything larger than 2000 grit. When I was finished with mine, the finish was just starting to look like I was getting through it, having a more metalic than black, glossy appearance, but not "silver".

German groups are normally bare metal where the contact points are, having been ground and polished. At least the ones on my AT94 were.

 

[TheCommander]

Guyver, I believe you have done it again! I didn't realize how gritty the hammer/sear contact is. I did use 600 grit sandpaper for underneath the sear and that seems to have worked nicely so far. If it doesn't run nearly flawless next time I shoot it, I might just end up getting German parts. Thanks again!

 

[Guyver]

Go back with 2000 grit.... You will get a more polished surface.... and a better feel.

The PTR pack that I used was made completely with german parts, and was fantastic from the start, they polish the contact points well,...
After polishing and installing the US made PTR Trigger, Hammer, sear.... I cannot tell the difference.

My stock ATI pack was german as well, but it felt like crap and the selector swtch was hard to manipulate.

When I put the US made grip on the gun, which came with the PTR trigger pack as a unit, my selector problems went away as well.

If you have the means, I highly recommend the PTR Grip pack unit... If you don't, maybe polish the internals on the selector switch as well, and dremel and angled ramp from the dentent holes, to make it a little easier. Be really careful though, a dab will do ya.