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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I just got a one owner OM9-K for a screaming deal (in today’s market, but still would have been good otherwise). It was an online deal, so I only got to give it an in-depth once over now that I got the gun. The previous owner said he had some reliability issues with anything except hotter loads or steel case ammo. He sent the gun to Omega to get it fixed and by the time it got back he was ready to sell it. This means the problems he was having with extractions may already in fact be fixed but I haven’t shot it yet. I will report those findings as soon as I can.

1) I read that these were supposed to come with RCM barrels. To my not so much surprise, the barrel has no markings and has very shallow looking flutes compared to my RCM barrel in my full-size PSC9. I think maybe they ran out of RCM that day and decided to make a special gun with special weapons parts. The only marking I can find is on the trunnion which is "BG46" (see photo), any idea who the manufacture of the barrel may be? What is up with the flutes? they seem cut very light compared to my full-size clone flutes, is this a K specific thing? I’ll probably have an HK smith install a RCM barrel in the future if this one shoots poorly but I’m just trying to figure out what I got.
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The back of the hammer appears that it has encountered the trigger box in the past. I pulled the BCG back over the hammer with the back cap off and I could still push the hammer down a little so I don't think that the pack is sitting too high, maybe it is from hard recoil? I’m not sure, any thoughts?
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3) The pin holes in the trigger pack housing have an odd half-moon shape cut out on them that is not present on my full-size gun. It looks to have been done on purpose, so I assume this was a factory thing done to help start the pins? Or is my housing just won out in a way that it looks factory lol?

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4) With just the standard blackcap on the gun the trigger pack has some back and forth play that is noticeable. This leads me to believe that the rear pin holes on the receiver are a little worn but when I put on the brace adapter that was included with the gun everything fits snug. The holes look like they may have a little wear, if they are egg shaping can it be fixed by an HK smith? Maybe a small bead of weld and then ream them out?
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Overall, I am happy with the gun and the action is silky smooth. It also came with the MAD MAX bolt, so I am stoked about that and can’t wait to shoot it!


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Anyone? I am most concerned with the hammer contacting the bridge in the pack, If anyone has any insight on this it would be much appreciated!
 

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To answer your questions:

The barrel and trunion are certainly TB/Special Weapons/ETC tooling
The contact to the trigger box isn't necessarily worrisome, but I would check the bolt gap to make sure it's not too high
The lower looks to be potentially modified for the pin to go in smoother... as the rear pin being slightly off has been a common theme among versions of clone
This makes sense when I look at the receiver which should have a bushing between the holes.
The holes look like they have been crudely oversized and the bushing is gone.

What I believe you have is a weapon that was fidgeted with by an owner at some point.
You don't have it pictured, but if I were to hazard a guess, I would be willing to bet that someone switched the lower, possibly with an authentic HK or contract lower, found the rear pin to be a huge PITA to get aligned, and then began to modify everything to make it fit.

IDK how much money you have into the weapon, but if you are considering having a RCM barrel installed anyways, then I would also have a new bushing welded in, and the weapon refinished with a new lower... cost you some money up front, but then it should be tight and right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
To answer your questions:

The barrel and trunion are certainly TB/Special Weapons/ETC tooling
The contact to the trigger box isn't necessarily worrisome, but I would check the bolt gap to make sure it's not too high
The lower looks to be potentially modified for the pin to go in smoother... as the rear pin being slightly off has been a common theme among versions of clone
This makes sense when I look at the receiver which should have a bushing between the holes.
The holes look like they have been crudely oversized and the bushing is gone.

What I believe you have is a weapon that was fidgeted with by an owner at some point.
You don't have it pictured, but if I were to hazard a guess, I would be willing to bet that someone switched the lower, possibly with an authentic HK or contract lower, found the rear pin to be a huge PITA to get aligned, and then began to modify everything to make it fit.

IDK how much money you have into the weapon, but if you are considering having a RCM barrel installed anyways, then I would also have a new bushing welded in, and the weapon refinished with a new lower... cost you some money up front, but then it should be tight and right.

The bolt gap is about .017

The PO was the original owner and only messed with the ejector so if the lower was modified or changed it was Omega’s doing either originally or when he sent it in for repair.

I am a little confused about the bushing, It was my understanding that the K models do not have an internal bushing as it uses the stock,brace, or end cap as the “bushing” since they all attach internally of the receiver and not externally like the full-size.

Thanks!
 

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Actually... I may have been unnecessarily alarmist. Looking at the picture again, I think the warble in the grip frame is the result of a re-drill... pretty common to modify full size grip frames to "K" version and looking at a couple I have from RTG that were produced like that have SIMILIAR although not as pronounced warbling... possible it is how the metal interfaces with the plastic? IDK... but it doesn't look off now that I am comparing.

On the receiver, I basically just did a late night stupid. If I had paid attention to the lower "k" grip, or the title of your thread which clearly indicated a "k" I would have realized what you were working with. I didn't put 2 and 2 together so I apologize. You are correct... no bushing on the "k" models so that is correct.

I still believe the holes were modified to make fitment easier because the finish has ben removed and it appears the holes a roughly chamfered but I wouldn't be surprised if that was done from the manufacturer.

The bolt gap is in the higher range but not unsuitable... but in combination with hot loads, this might have produced the wear in the grip frame you are seeing... still... nothing alarming there at all so I think you are in good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Actually... I may have been unnecessarily alarmist. Looking at the picture again, I think the warble in the grip frame is the result of a re-drill... pretty common to modify full size grip frames to "K" version and looking at a couple I have from RTG that were produced like that have SIMILIAR although not as pronounced warbling... possible it is how the metal interfaces with the plastic? IDK... but it doesn't look off now that I am comparing.

On the receiver, I basically just did a late night stupid. If I had paid attention to the lower "k" grip, or the title of your thread which clearly indicated a "k" I would have realized what you were working with. I didn't put 2 and 2 together so I apologize. You are correct... no bushing on the "k" models so that is correct.

I still believe the holes were modified to make fitment easier because the finish has ben removed and it appears the holes a roughly chamfered but I wouldn't be surprised if that was done from the manufacturer.

The bolt gap is in the higher range but not unsuitable... but in combination with hot loads, this might have produced the wear in the grip frame you are seeing... still... nothing alarming there at all so I think you are in good shape.
Awesome thank you so much! I ordered a #28 LP so I will see what that does to my bolt gap once I get it in and will adjust accordingly.

Hopefully the reciever holes can be tightened up via weld and re-drill/ream or something.

Any Special Weapons parts on the gun that I should be particularly cautious of and that should be inspected/replaced? The back of the firing pin is slightly mushrooming over so have a new one on order, trigger pack appears to be a German conversion but with a different semi-auto only hammer (no sear surface). What about the trunnions? Are they of decent quality or will they become a danger at some point?

Thanks for the help!
 

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I'd like to see a picture of the fire control group/box from the front and side at least to tell you about the box. Is it SEF or Ambi?

The barrels generally work fine... I wouldn't replace the barrel unless it was necessary.

I haven't had any serious issues with 9mm trunnions from SW although 10mm and 40cal are an entirely different story. What I can tell you is that I have seen trunnions installed incorrectly causing false bolt gap readings (installed too far rearward causing the bolt carrier to interface with the trunion so that the bolt cannot actually travel forward further). This can usually be quickly identified by looking at the carrier through the ejection port. When in battery, you should not be able to really see the front of the carrier... when installed too far rearward, you can usually see the front of the carrier.

If everything looks to be installed properly, I wouldn't give it much thought unless the barrel gets worn out down the road.

The first thing I usually end up fidgeting with on SW guns is the fire control box... they can be very problematic.

The next thing I would consider replacing would be the bolt but not the carrier... carriers tend to be okay... but early bolts are MIM, later are "billet" but I have never touched one... and eventually Omega started shipping with Mad Max bolts.

MIM need to be thrown away... billet, I cannot say because I have no experience and the Mad Max bolts can stay
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'd like to see a picture of the fire control group/box from the front and side at least to tell you about the box. Is it SEF or Ambi?

The barrels generally work fine... I wouldn't replace the barrel unless it was necessary.

I haven't had any serious issues with 9mm trunnions from SW although 10mm and 40cal are an entirely different story. What I can tell you is that I have seen trunnions installed incorrectly causing false bolt gap readings (installed too far rearward causing the bolt carrier to interface with the trunion so that the bolt cannot actually travel forward further). This can usually be quickly identified by looking at the carrier through the ejection port. When in battery, you should not be able to really see the front of the carrier... when installed too far rearward, you can usually see the front of the carrier.

If everything looks to be installed properly, I wouldn't give it much thought unless the barrel gets worn out down the road.

The first thing I usually end up fidgeting with on SW guns is the fire control box... they can be very problematic.

The next thing I would consider replacing would be the bolt but not the carrier... carriers tend to be okay... but early bolts are MIM, later are "billet" but I have never touched one... and eventually Omega started shipping with Mad Max bolts.

MIM need to be thrown away... billet, I cannot say because I have no experience and the Mad Max bolts can stay
I will check to see what I can/cannot see through the ejection port later tonight

It is an SEF FCG and I will get some pictures when I get home. Hammer and ejector I am fairly certain is SW.

Bolt is a mad max
 

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So you probably have a later production Omega... I would consider everything installed to be of sufficient quality enough to not warrant replacement other than the fire control group box...which, even worst case scenario, if it is junk, you can buy just the semi box from RTG (the USA one they had made) ... they work very very well and are super cheap. 30 minutes and some fidgeting and you will probably be all sorted.... that being said, we are going down a path which is less and less likely to be problematic given the recent manufacture. I don't know that you need to replace anything and it would be extremely unlikely that the trunnion is installed incorrectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Pictures are attached of BCG in gun and the trigger box. Trigger box seems to me to be a German conversion as you can see slight reminiscence of the sear hole left where cut out. Pretty sure that at least the hammer and ejector are SW parts, maybe more.



Thanks again for all the help!

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FCG looks to be healthy as well. Looks like an RTG setup... probably POF ejector

Honestly, man... you mentioned you got it for a good deal... you might have stumbled on a winner.

Carrier looks to be in the correct position as well.

Go out and have some fun with it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
FCG looks to be healthy as well. Looks like an RTG setup... probably POF ejector

Honestly, man... you mentioned you got it for a good deal... you might have stumbled on a winner.

Carrier looks to be in the correct position as well.

Go out and have some fun with it!

Awesome man thanks for the help! I was able to shoot the gun with about 150rnds of my reloads and it functioned flawlessly. The previous owner did have reliability issues with anything but steel case or hotter brass case ammo. He sent the gun in but once he got it back 9mm was too expensive so he listed it for sale. Looks like they were able to remedy whatever issues he was having because I shot about 75rnds or normal reloaded 9mm brass case and about 75rnds of very underpowered reloaded 124gn with and without a can and it functioned flawlessly. All in all I paid just under $2k shipped and transfered for the whole package which inluded the gun, $500ish worth of POF mags (which I was looking for anyway), and a $400ish brace. I figure I have about $1,100 in the actual gun itself which I figure is pretty good for these times.

Thanks!
 
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