HKPRO Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,460 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Gun:
IGF built 33 upper with malay barrel and Vector receiver. Full length gun. Standard, semi only carrier, unbuffered. New HK c&p'd Navy SEF grip frame, fits a bit loose in the front and isn't completely parallel with the receiver. Looks like the shelf is welded on to low by about 1/16th inch. The trigger pack is an HK factory frame with US hammer, trigger, sear, and a full length 33/93 ejector.

Performance:
As it is, the gun has run perfectly. It feeds and ejects fine and I'm happy about that. Ejection is consistant and very "energetic", as expected. Has run with Federal AE and Norinco perfectly.

Problem:
The low shelf bugs me. This is not the main problem. The main problem is, if I push up the grip frame so it's parallel with the receiver like it's supposed to be, and while holding it there hand cycle the bolt, the bolt hangs up just as the bolt head is about to clear the ejection port, or, about the same time the front of the ejector and the rear of the ejector should just about be meeting the bolt assembly.
If I let go of the grip frame and cycle the bolt, the grip frame will move down, much as if the moving bolt assembly is pushing it down. After this the bolt moves smoothly again and all is well. If I push up the grip frame and hold it the bolt will hang up again and will not move rearward fully until the grip frame is allowed to move down. It seems that the front of the ejector and the rear of the ejector are contacting the bolt carrier and bolt head at the same time, binding up the assembly. For that to happen the trigger pack would have to be to high or the ejector is to long, correct? Advice needed.

The fix:
Here's where I need advice from people who know what they are talking about.
I could leave it alone and get over my OCD.
I could file the top of the front of the ejector.
I could file the top of the rear of the ejector.
Could I replace the ejector with a 53 ejector?

I'm leaning towards adding material to the shelf to raise the front of the grip frame purely for my own satisfaction but I'm afraid if I do this the gun will not only not run but may also break something. So, I need to figure out exactly what is awry and fix that first. And I'm looking for what may be wrong that I havent thought of. Trigger box in the grip frame correctly? Seems to be, the safety goes in fine. I did have to grind out a lump of plastic in the grip frame to get trigger pack to go all the way in. Seems the elbow spring was hitting this hump and wouldn't allow the pack to go into the frame. Yeah, the elbow spring came from who knows where and don't look like it's probably bent correctly but it works fine so who knows. Regardless, the pack is seated in the grip frame fully and functions fine but could there be a problem there?
I've recently read where some folks are finding a 53 ejector works in some full size guns better than a standard, longer 33 type. Why? What kind of problems are they having that leads to the change? In my minds eye the long ejector is hitting in the front and rear, causing the binding. In theory, a short ejector would offset that timing and the binding would go away. But then would the gun run correctly, ejecting like it should?

Looking for input and experience. Thanks for taking the time to read all this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
I would email Jayson since he was the builder and see what he suggests. He is very good to deal with and may have a quick fix for you.

Best,

TC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,180 Posts
If you can push the trigger pack up in the front, I would check the small tabs on the receiver that are there to keep the FCG from moving, or should I say pivoting within the lower.
When you push up on the pack its seems that the reward movement of the bolt carrier coming in contact with the back of the ejector is causing the FCG to "pivot" within the housing and cause the front of the ejector to bind against the bolt head.

You should be able to see this by looking in the mag housing and cycling the bolt as you push up on the lower. This may also be the reason for the low shelf height, in which if in fact this is what is happening. The trigger pack being lower in the front will allow for any excess movement in its current state, but when raised it causes issues.

A close up photo assembled and disassembled might be worth posting for the true experts here to see. I am only basing my opinion on something that I have encountered with my (1) build.:90:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
259 Posts
I could leave it alone and get over my OCD.
The builder probably uses a template to position the shelves. Could you imagine having to adjust the shelves individually to each lower in a production gun? Every lower fits differently. Get over it. You have a gun that runs "perfectly". What's next, the angle of the cocking handle when it's at rest?:300000000:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,237 Posts
What's next, the angle of the cocking handle when it's at rest?:300000000:
You know... that's not the first time that's been brought up here... :biggrin:
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
879 Posts
You know... that's not the first time that's been brought up here... :biggrin:
Wait....is he asking if the op is a shower or a grower?

snerk!


Sorry....couldn't help myself......
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top