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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My P2000 (BE date code) has developed rust in the proofmarks and HK laser etched logo. I've removed the rust with some CLP and scrubbing, but now the gold has turned dark grey, which I'm sure is a product of the corrosion. Has the laser etching cut through the tenifer treatment, or is the paint used by HK to color in the etchings oxidizing? This is a result of contact with sweat. This is a carry gun so I'm not worried about the aesthetics, but if bare metal is being exposed to the elements I might have to remedy that somehow. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, but that doesn't really answer the question. Has the laser cut through the tennifer or is it just a paint applied to the etching?
 

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I thought I did answer your question, Eezox makes the problem go away... it is completely trivial whether the metal treatment was cut through (likely) as you can keep it from rusting with Eezox. I've noticed the same thing on my carry pieces, no big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I thought I did answer your question, Eezox makes the problem go away... it is completely trivial whether the metal treatment was cut through (likely) as you can keep it from rusting with Eezox. I've noticed the same thing on my carry pieces, no big deal.
Will it remove the tarnish on the Gold etchings?
 

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Another Eezox user here!
 

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Concerning Eezox; gloves and adequate ventilation should be used when applying Eezox . I am not sure it's safe for plastics. Again, it is great for corrosion protection.
 

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Thanks, but that doesn't really answer the question. Has the laser cut through the tennifer or is it just a paint applied to the etching?
The Gold/Yellow is a byproduct of the heat from the Laser etching. The Hostile Environment finish is fine. Keep oil on the entire metal surface.

Ezzox is a great dry rust prevention.
 

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Concerning Eezox; gloves and adequate ventilation should be used when applying Eezox . I am not sure it's safe for plastics. Again, it is great for corrosion protection.
This is great advice, it is strong solvent and known carcinogen... if using indoors I do so in a room using negative air pressure (strong ventilation fan in window pointing out with strong seal in frame with a window open on another side of the house. I try to limit to outdoor use only which gives the least possible exposure through the lungs, though this is not practical when it's sub freezing outside...

Also, a little of this stuff goes a LONG way... I usually just dampen the end of a q-tip or cotton cleaning swab. That will basically clean an entire slide, close the lid between dabs on the swab... use another q-tip (or three) to clean off what's applied, then reapply VERY light coat and let dry. It's extremely easy to use too much on the final coat, if so it won't dry after many hours... you'll need to remove the excess to the point where it is just barely visible and has a slight sheen.

Gloves are a must as your skin is a passageway rather than a barrier and will directly absorb the chemicals which bypass your liver ending up in your bloodstream, I use neoprene coated gloves as recommended in MSDS... still using the same pair as it's pretty good at resisting the chemical attack... other types will likely not fare so well. Eezox will not harm the finish but I would not recommend using on plastics, I simply wipe down plastics with cool damp cloth to get the lead/carbon fouling off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks, but that doesn't really answer the question. Has the laser cut through the tennifer or is it just a paint applied to the etching?
HK uses tenifer?
As far as I know HK uses tennifer. It may not be "tennifer" but it is a nitrocarburization process which is all very similar. Melonite, Tennifer, Armornite, etc. if done properly is basically one and the same.
 
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