P2000/SK/USPC LEM Trigger Job Part 1

328488 Views 551 Replies 206 Participants Last post by medic2018, 3 mo ago

Big Bore

Discussion Starter · May 31, 2006

4

P2000/SK/USP/C LEM Trigger Job Part 1

I have been asked to repost the thread showing how to do the V2 to V4 and V1 trigger job on the USP/C LEM, P2000 LEM, and P2000SK LEM, so here it is again.

To lighten LEM trigger (USPC, USP, P2K or P2KSK) you need Trigger Rebound Spring and Firing Pin Block Spring to drop the pull to approx. 5 pounds. Price of these parts is 4.50 each, plus shipping.
Firing pin block spring # 214192
Trigger return spring # 214164
These parts are the same parts used in the non-LEM USP and USPC variants.

edited to add updated part numbers
To lighten the LEM pull on the USP/C pistol you will need part numbers
214192 Firing pin block spring USP/C if the gun was made before 2005
209296 firing pin block spring for guns made 2005 or later.
209266 Trigger return spring

According to HK, the following is needed to lighten the trigger pull on the P2000. You will need part numbers:
209296 Firing pin block spring
209266 Trigger return spring
These parts should eliminate the sluggish trigger return some have reported when releasing the trigger slowly but will also make the trigger pull slightly heavier.

However, note that this trigger job was done on the P2K/SK using the first part numbers listed in this post. That pistol is either an AD or an AE (03 or 04) so when doing the LEM trigger job on a pre-05 use the first part numbers listed originally, but if 05 (AF) or later use the new part numbers.

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Big Bore

Discussion Starter · #2 · May 31, 2006

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Part 2

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Big Bore

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 31, 2006

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Part 3

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Big Bore

Discussion Starter · #4 · May 31, 2006

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Part 4

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Big Bore

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 31, 2006

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Part 5

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flashman70

· #6 · May 31, 2006

I think this should be a sticky.

A6Gator

· #7 · Jun 1, 2006

Excellent!

mbsigman1

· #8 · Jun 2, 2006

LEM Trigger lightening

Mr BigBore,

EXCELLENT post! More explanative than the Armorer's Manual!

I have a Compact .45 with the LEM trigger. Tommy Thacker did the trigger job on that, and he did a whale of a job - it's slicker than grease on glass. But would it be possible for you to post the same type of trigger job explanation, WITH PICTURES (I'm a picture lovin' kind of guy - I need to see what I'm yanking and banking on) for the LEM Compact .40 and .45 series?

Thanks again for a super post.

Mike

MaverickH1

· #9 · Jun 2, 2006

Sweeeeeet

Big Bore

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jun 3, 2006

It would be almost the same for the USP/C LEM as it would be for the P2K/SK. The only real difference would be the lack of the right side slide release. Honestly, I don't think the differences would be worth the effort nor do I own a USP/C in LEM in which to convert. As much as the variant change helped the P2K/SK LEM I still do not like the LEM trigger as much as I do the normal V1 (SA/DA safe/decock) of the USP/C variety.

MrShipwreck

· #11 · Jun 3, 2006

Awesome dude

Vadge

· #12 · Jun 7, 2006

Thanks BigBore.

I just finished the conversion. It was a bitch getting the TRS in since my punch slid out while I was getting the old one out. After a lot of futzing, I finally just wedged a bunched up tissue behind the trigger so it would stay in position while I put the new spring in.

The trigger break is definitely a lot lighter now. However, the trigger is not as "springy" in the slack stage. In fact, if I take out the slack and let go without breaking the trigger, the trigger is barely resetting. I almost have to push it forward. Is that normal? It sure doesn't feel very HK. I can't imagine they'd let a V1 out of the factory like that. Did I screw up somewhere?

Thanks

ParChaser

· #13 · Jun 7, 2006

Please put this permanantly on the site. This is awesome and the type of info people would pay for. Great info!

Big Bore

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jun 7, 2006

Vadge, e-mail incoming. In short, check position of TRS legs.

David333

· #15 · Jun 8, 2006

P2K 9mm V2 Trigger Job

I got the two springs today and it made a difference on the trigger pull. Your instructions were right on! No way would I attempt changing a trigger pull without your post with pictures. Thankyou!

LostOne

· #16 · Jun 8, 2006

Thanks BB, the pics are a real help for people who have never done it before.

Vadge

· #17 · Jun 8, 2006

David333 said:
I got the two springs today and it made a difference on the trigger pull. Your instructions were right on! No way would I attempt changing a trigger pull without your post with pictures. Thankyou!

Is your trigger hesistant to return all the way forward if you take out the slack but not fire like mine is? Just wondering if this is to be expected.

David333

· #18 · Jun 8, 2006

Trigger Return Slack.

No problem with the trigger return, but the trigger isn't as tight up to the break point. It just feels different. If I shake the pistol the trigger doesn't rattle or anything like that. I did lube all the areas that were related to the two springs that were replaced. Its TRICKY but CRUCIAL that the LEGS of the TR spring are seated the same way as the original.Hope this helps.

David333

· #19 · Jun 8, 2006

Trigger Return Slack

If you take your pistol and turn it upside down look BEHIND the trigger close to the frame.On the RIGHT hand side (OF THE TRIGGER)is a small indentation or notch that one of the Legs of your TR spring should go. If you don't see the notch take the pistol out into the sunlight or under a brite light and you will see it. Again this is the spot that one of the legs on your TR spring should be seated.Hope this helps.

LostOne

· #20 · Jun 8, 2006

Okay, who has some springs? I made a few calls with no luck.....hkpartsonline wont have any for 4 weeks...

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