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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I THINK I've narrowed down my finish choices for a p7 that WILL be carried. I know the CCR vs ROBAR (NP3) debate is nothing new...but it's certainly the first time I've been caught in the middle when it's my gun that's going to be refinished.

METALOY hard chrome is also high on the list, I've got a hard chrome P7 and love it.

So the question is do you vets w any experience w either product have any guidance?! Is having a weather proof and self lubricating option worth the price AND break away from tradition ie HARD CHROME?

I do live in Nashville w humid/sticky climate which brings me to my next question. Will the NP3 "slick surface that'll protect against humidity etc...make it too slippery when mixed w sweaty palms creating a potential s*#t situation considering its a carry weapon. I'd say if the weapon is drawn the situation will suck just fine on its own with out any additional variables needed.

ANY experience w their new Poly t2, I'd also thought having the frame done in the T2 with NP3 or NP3+ on the slide and internals or visa versa w CCR ie Cera-plate & cera hide combo.

All of the advice and pics I can get will be appreciated.
 

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I always liked NP3. I've handled several Glocks with the finish and love it. When I get my P2000sk it's getting the treatment for sure. I didn't find it too slick, then again I am in Arizona. But the way I see it is a slick slide will allow for potentially quicker draws (I know, it's a stretch, lol), and if you carry your weapon with a round chambered, as you should, then I don't think it will be an issue. Let's face it, we own HK's, there is an infinitesmally small chance that you'll have a malfunction provided you are running good, tested ammunition.

I say go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you much! Agreed on carrying chambered, I'm certainly not going to need to rack the slide. I may send my p30 in as well to have the internals done...I'm pretty sold non the product , thanks again for the vote O' confidence.
 

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I say go with the hard chrome. I haven't tried the Cera-Plate, but the Cera-Hide started coming off of my P7s sharp edges where the holster touched within the first month.When I asked CCR about it, they did not return my inquiries. I have heard of some people that CCR daily were very pleased with Birdsong's Black-T.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I can't lie...having one in hard chrome, I keep wondering what more I really hope to accomplish, I love that gun. I think having the NP3 put on the internals and hard chrome the rest would be IDEAL. It's truly a damn shame that NO one company does this. I'd hate to have to send it off twice...and pay for shipping twice. OUCH. Sadly I'm more concerned about the waiting period than I am the $, maybe I need to work on my patience and suck it up/ do it right.
 

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I say go with the hard chrome. I haven't tried the Cera-Plate, but the Cera-Hide started coming off of my P7s sharp edges where the holster touched within the first month.When I asked CCR about it, they did not return my inquiries. I have heard of some people that CCR daily were very pleased with Birdsong's Black-T.
I wouldn't be surprised if Cera-Hide started showing wear quickly. It's just a baked on polymer finish, not hard chrome.

Thank you much! Agreed on carrying chambered, I'm certainly not going to need to rack the slide. I may send my p30 in as well to have the internals done...I'm pretty sold non the product , thanks again for the vote O' confidence.
The concern with a slippery slide is if you have to perform remedial or immediate action. So, the concern still applies if you carry a chambered round.

I have my P2000 fire control group plated in nickel-teflon (NP3 is nickel teflon). It's a nice feature, but it doesn't really do anything for you unless you're around a lot of salt water.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good call on CCW advice

I wouldn't be surprised if Cera-Hide started showing wear quickly. It's just a baked on polymer finish, not hard chrome.



The concern with a slippery slide is if you have to perform remedial or immediate action. So, the concern still applies if you carry a chambered round.

I have my P2000 fire control group plated in nickel-teflon (NP3 is nickel teflon). It's a nice feature, but it doesn't really do anything for you unless you're around a lot of salt water.[/

Are you saying Nickel Teflon in general isnt much use unless in a marine environment? I've heard that about the NP3+, but thaught the NP3 might be good for the TN humidity...on the internals.

OH, DID THE ACTION SMOOTH OUT? Or is this just marketing fluff?
 

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(NP3 is nickel teflon). It's a nice feature, but it doesn't really do anything for you unless you're around a lot of salt water.[/QUOTE]

I plan to use my P7 as a carry piece. What made me go with Robar NP3 Plus is that the P7 doesn't have the newer Hostile Environment finish of the more recent USP and P series pistols. According to G3Kurz (whose professional opinion carries a lot of weight with me) the P7 is prone to rusting if you sweat on it, due to the salts secreted in your perspiration. So it's not necessarily the environment you find yourself in, it's the environment your gun finds itself in (strapped to my sweaty hip down here in the humid Lowcountry of South Carolina). That, and the benefits of easier cleaning, were enough to push me over the edge and spend the money. The 20% discount last December helped too!

Cheers,

Paddy
 

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Are you saying Nickel Teflon in general isnt much use unless in a marine environment? I've heard that about the NP3+, but thaught the NP3 might be good for the TN humidity...on the internals.

OH, DID THE ACTION SMOOTH OUT? Or is this just marketing fluff?
Your P30 will be fine in TN without NP3 internals. Just don't leave it in your holster for weeks/months at a time after sweating through your holster and it'll be fine.

I had it done as part of GGI's trigger work, so it smoothed out but that's probably more due to the heavy caliper grease they used upon reassembly and any stone work they did. Even still, my trigger isn't remarkably smoother than a broken in P-Series. Getting NP3 alone isn't going to do much to improve the trigger smoothness.
 

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I wouldn't be surprised if Cera-Hide started showing wear quickly. It's just a baked on polymer finish, not hard chrome.



The concern with a slippery slide is if you have to perform remedial or immediate action. So, the concern still applies if you carry a chambered round.

I have my P2000 fire control group plated in nickel-teflon (NP3 is nickel teflon). It's a nice feature, but it doesn't really do anything for you unless you're around a lot of salt water.[/

Are you saying Nickel Teflon in general isnt much use unless in a marine environment? I've heard that about the NP3+, but thaught the NP3 might be good for the TN humidity...on the internals.



OH, DID THE ACTION SMOOTH OUT? Or is this just marketing fluff?
See my other post as to why I went with Robar. As for getting the "Plus", it was only $30 more, so I figured why not? As for smoothing out the action, I really can't say - I didn't pay a lot of attention to the action before - or at least I can't remember how it was to give an honest objective comparison. I will say it feels very nice as I sit here dry firing... no regrets.
 

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(NP3 is nickel teflon). It's a nice feature, but it doesn't really do anything for you unless you're around a lot of salt water.
I plan to use my P7 as a carry piece. What made me go with Robar NP3 Plus is that the P7 doesn't have the newer Hostile Environment finish of the more recent USP and P series pistols. According to G3Kurz (whose professional opinion carries a lot of weight with me) the P7 is prone to rusting if you sweat on it, due to the salts secreted in your perspiration. So it's not necessarily the environment you find yourself in, it's the environment your gun finds itself in (strapped to my sweaty hip down here in the humid Lowcountry of South Carolina). That, and the benefits of easier cleaning, were enough to push me over the edge and spend the money. The 20% discount last December helped too!

Cheers,

Paddy[/QUOTE]

Paddy,

That comment was directed at his comment about putting NP3 on the internals of his P30.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks a bunch for all the feed back, VERY helpful!
 

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My mistake TGS - I misread what you wrote.

One last thing - after I shipped my gun to robar I had this horrible feeling that I had made a mistake- that I wouldn't like the looks of it with the NP3 coating - that I should have gone with hard chrome. I have no regrets. It is true what they say - NP3 is hard to photograph accurately. I'm very happy with the look.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks P!

My mistake TGS - I misread what you wrote.

One last thing - after I shipped my gun to robar I had this horrible feeling that I had made a mistake- that I wouldn't like the looks of it with the NP3 coating - that I should have gone with hard chrome. I have no regrets. It is true what they say - NP3 is hard to photograph accurately. I'm very happy with the look.[/erQUOTE]


I know the feeling, felt the same way when I sent my p30 out for trigger work...in the end I couldn't be happier.
 

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A while back on www.parkcitiestactical.com there was a gentleman who had his P7s Melonited. That IS the guts of the "Hostile Environment" 'finish' that's on HK's other products. His pistols were gorgeous, too.

Ceramic coatings aren't bad but don't wear nearly as well as the non-decorative or performance PVD finishes like TiAlN, WDLC, etc.

IonBond in South Carolina offers WDLC to the public through several gunsmiths. Last piece I had done was $400 for a Les Baer TRS. You could have the slide of the P7 Melonited for under $100 then have it all sent to IonBond. One thing I would suggest is have the gun "dehorned" - radiusing the somewhat sharp edges on the slide as that's where ANY coating will begin to show wear.

Good luck with your research and decision.
 
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