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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently just purchased a P7 Gen 1 (with bottom mag release) which is fairly in good condition but I see some slight rusting on the frame (trigger guard area) and some pitting on the slide serrations. Im thinking of having it refinished to seal the steel and prevent further rusting or am I destroying the gun by doing so? Im also thinking of replacing the grips where from what I hear some custom grips actually has an extended portion to cover the release lever to avoid accidental release of magazine. Any help on how to refurbish or fix the P7 would be most welcome. Tips on what to consider before doing it would be great. See pics to see what Im trying to fix:





Furthermore, is this a pistol that I should restore to its original like condition? and keep it as a collectors item? This is an original purchase from a friend whom I bought it from. I would say 200 rounds at most in 2-3 occassions and sat in the box. Are these the ones that will also turn to plum color? Any issues that I should be anticipating?


Many thanks.
 

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It's hard to tell the severity of your rust issue in the photos you supplied, but it doesn't look too extreme to me.

Refinishing will certainly detract from the future value of the gun. I would disassemble the gun and gently brush the rusted areas with a brass brush that has been moistened with oil. Do small areas at a time, and wipe off to check progress. After you're done, wipe off the pistol with an oil dampened cloth - just enough to keep it slightly coated, and you shouldn't have rust issues from this point forward.

Regarding the plum color, if it hasn't turned plum yet, it likely will not...
 

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Just refinish it and enjoy. There have been a glut of trade-in P7s released out on the market (granted, yours is a commercial import) the last few years and they were going for less than $500 as recently as 2010. Even now, if you look around, you can easily find one in excellent condition for less than $700. It'll be worth more for a nice hard chrome, nickel or Robar finish for the foreseeable future.
 

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Get some eezox, read the directions and apply it after you get the surface rust take care of. I've used the product on a number of blued steel guns and never had rust after use. And it's humid out here in WA state, granted my skin/sweat isn't particularly corrosive like some folks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just finished cleaning it up. Was able to take out some of the rust but definitely pitting is the issue. Thanks for the final advise kabob... Definitely getting refinished. Any experience on how fix the pitting or fill it before refinishing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks kabob... hope others can help. I have tried using a brass brush and used CLP to remove some of the rust but was careful (not putting too much) pressure as I didnt want to scratch too much and damage some other areas of the receiver or on the slide. You think I just brush it harder? Im thinking of using some 1000-1200 grit sand paper to remove the surface rust. What do you think?

Below are some photos of the P7 after I have cleaned it. Note that the flash on my iphone kinda brings out the rust color on the slide serrations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I wanted to make sure that all rust is removed before I sent out for refinishing and come out nicely and not seeing pits covered by NIB.

To summarize, here are the issues that I am encountering with the rust removal:

1. Rust/pitting on slide serrations - It seems the info Im getting is leading to sand blasting or beads.
2. For the receiver, I will try to continue on using the brass brush or the like to remove them. Will probably use a coarser grit sand paper as I dont want to end up with a mirror finish on the receiver.
3. For the other parts of the slide, sparingly use a combination of sand paper and/or brass brush on the original brushed finished areas.
4. I have no idea what to use except brass brush on the squeeze cocker. I dont want to remove the rough finish on the decocker.
5. Last but not the least, it seems to me that the HK INC ARL VA22201 on the slide after the proof mark seems to be printed on very shallow engraving. Not sure even if there is engraving. Will this come off if I brush it to hard? Will this marking still show once the slide is refinished?

Your comments to recommend best way to handle different rusting areas is highly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
unfortunately, I live in Asia where sending to Robar or similar outfits is not allowed internationally. So I have to prep the P7 myself and send it to the electroless outfit for refinishing. I have seen it done wrong before where a pistol is sent in for refinishing, cleaned and de-rusted but some areas where it should have been cleaned was not implemented.

Nonetheless, I have done some prepping already to remove the rusts on the slide and the frame, but had to stop myself at one point pending advise that I can get from members who have the same pistol. See pics below... apologies if some of them might seem cruel to do this but I have no choice as I will be using this as my EDC and keeping it as is does not make sense. Some questions on each photo below.



There are tooling marks on the trigger guard and the rounded areas of the frame. Is this present in other unrefinished P7's? What about those that have been refinished by Robar, etc.. did they they clean the tool marks up?



The VA and post code seems to be only printed, can anyone verify if this is correct? Or is it a filled?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks Jonbondave...I also asked the same question to someone in the forum but probably there is no way to check how it got here as I purchased this pre-owned from a friend of mine. From what I know, the HK dealers here in Asia gets their stock from HK-USA or whoever was the representative during that time. If you do find information on this, this would be good to add to history to it.

Im probably going to have the engraving deepened a bit to keep it. Thanks for the link... more things for me to think about before I finalize finish to use.

Furthermore, its quite difficult to find another owner of the same unit here so Im wondering if the refinished ones in the US have the tool marks removed by the gunsmith? or just kept it ?
 
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