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Please give me your experience and advice on the pros and cons of each. Hopefully in the near future I shall have to decide.
 

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I have dome both. A finely ground powder with powder coat will yield you a glass-like smooth finish, however it takes some pratice to get the thickness correct. Even then there's a chance that it will be too thin or too thick. Too thick will remove any crisp lines and sharp engravings/markings (which must be done extra deep). Too thin will make it feel like sandpaper. Also, to remove powder coat is a b*tch. So if you do make a mistake, kiss a few more hrs goodbye.

The big plus to pc however, besides its finish is it's durability. No cure time required and it's tough. Other than the required equipment, pc is an inexpensive product.

DuraCoat is what I use now. Its advantages and disadvantages are like any other paint product. Easy to apply, easy to repair, if done corrently will look very good. Lines and markings remain crisp. Cons are that it can take up to 30 days cure for full durability and it shows EVERYTHING. So take extra care in preping your surface.
 

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Excellent . Thanks for the update on specs etc. one day I will get my call from the FFL and I can also brag about my D54
 

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I have dome both. A finely ground powder with powder coat will yield you a glass-like smooth finish, however it takes some pratice to get the thickness correct. Even then there's a chance that it will be too thin or too thick. Too thick will remove any crisp lines and sharp engravings/markings (which must be done extra deep). Too thin will make it feel like sandpaper. Also, to remove powder coat is a b*tch. So if you do make a mistake, kiss a few more hrs goodbye.

The big plus to pc however, besides its finish is it's durability. No cure time required and it's tough. Other than the required equipment, pc is an inexpensive product.

DuraCoat is what I use now. Its advantages and disadvantages are like any other paint product. Easy to apply, easy to repair, if done corrently will look very good. Lines and markings remain crisp. Cons are that it can take up to 30 days cure for full durability and it shows EVERYTHING. So take extra care in preping your surface.
Have you ever done Cerakote? If so, how does it stack up against the other two?
 

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Have you ever done Cerakote? If so, how does it stack up against the other two?
No direct experience with Cerakote but I have heard many good things about it. Once we get the new cure oven done I think I'll give it a try to see how it is. I did hear it goes on very thin which I'm not sure that I personally like for roller-lock guns. I think these guns should have a finish that's a little thicker.
 

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I am sure you already know this but you can cut that cure time down tremendously by oven curing the Duracoat. 200 degrees for 2 hours and it is pretty dang cured.
 

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I am sure you already know this but you can cut that cure time down tremendously by oven curing the Duracoat. 200 degrees for 2 hours and it is pretty dang cured.
I've recently started oven curing for 5 hrs at 135-degrees. Might have to try the higher temp. Thanks!
 

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Have you ever tried Norrells Moly Resin?
No. There are sooooo many different firearm finishes to try them all and thus far, I've been really happy with DuraCoat. We just invested in a new professional HVLP spray gun and the guns are coming out great. I still want to explore Cerakote at some point, but I think that's going to be the extent of it.
 

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Ceramic coatings are the kitty
 
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