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Discussion Starter #1
P2000 date code AF.

I have carried this gun for quite some time and it has a bit of slide finish wear. Which doesn't bother me in the least. I normally carry in a Crossbreed IWB or occasionally in a Raven Concealment or Aker OWB.

But for the last few days I have been trying out a Smartcarry holster. I am liking the Smartcarry and appendix carry in general.

I was sitting home today and decided to strip down my P2000 and clean it out. It's my edc and I thought I would clean it up and relube it. While breaking it down I thought the proof marks and serial number looked odd. They are usually a little gold looking, today they looked orange. Upon closer inspection I could barely make out the proof marks. they were a solid blob of rust orange. I wish I had taken pictures but my first reaction was to grab some gun oil and a terry cloth and get to rubbing.

Most of it came off the serial numbers. It still has some on the proof marks.

Is this common? Now I'm debating getting it refinished in NP3 or CPII. Wear I don't mind, rust I can't handle.
 

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P2000 date code AF.

I have carried this gun for quite some time and it has a bit of slide finish wear. Which doesn't bother me in the least. I normally carry in a Crossbreed IWB or occasionally in a Raven Concealment or Aker OWB.

But for the last few days I have been trying out a Smartcarry holster. I am liking the Smartcarry and appendix carry in general.

I was sitting home today and decided to strip down my P2000 and clean it out. It's my edc and I thought I would clean it up and relube it. While breaking it down I thought the proof marks and serial number looked odd. They are usually a little gold looking, today they looked orange. Upon closer inspection I could barely make out the proof marks. they were a solid blob of rust orange. I wish I had taken pictures but my first reaction was to grab some gun oil and a terry cloth and get to rubbing.

Most of it came off the serial numbers. It still has some on the proof marks.

Is this common? Now I'm debating getting it refinished in NP3 or CPII. Wear I don't mind, rust I can't handle.
That doesn't sound right. Call up HK and be honest about your carry routine, whether you store the weapon in the holster after carrying, and your maintenance schedule, and hopefully they'll give you a new slide. A nitrocarburized slide shouldn't rust. It's not a "maybe" or "if" or a conditional statement dependent upon you babying the slide. The only reason undamaged nitrocarburized steel will rust is if it's nitrocarbed improperly, ala early make S&W M&P's, or exposed to a hostile environment for extended periods.

Unless, of course, those numbers are stamped after the slide has been nitrocarb'd. Then it'd just be bare carbon steel protected by the black oxide finish (read: industrial, utilitarian bluing). If that's the case, I wouldn't be surprised if rust were to develop when exposed to sweat or whatnot....but I think everything done to the slide is done before the nitrocarb process.
 

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That doesn't sound right. Call up HK and be honest about your carry routine, whether you store the weapon in the holster after carrying, and your maintenance schedule, and hopefully they'll give you a new slide. A nitrocarburized slide shouldn't rust. It's not a "maybe" or "if" or a conditional statement dependent upon you babying the slide. The only reason undamaged nitrocarburized steel will rust is if it's nitrocarbed improperly, ala early make S&W M&P's, or exposed to a hostile environment for extended periods.
I'm pretty sure that at least the proof marks are put in after the surface treatments. Not sure about the serial numbering.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That doesn't sound right. Call up HK and be honest about your carry routine, whether you store the weapon in the holster after carrying, and your maintenance schedule, and hopefully they'll give you a new slide. A nitrocarburized slide shouldn't rust. It's not a "maybe" or "if" or a conditional statement dependent upon you babying the slide. The only reason undamaged nitrocarburized steel will rust is if it's nitrocarbed improperly, ala early make S&W M&P's, or exposed to a hostile environment for extended periods.
I'm not the original owner. It had been carried some before I got it. Been carrying it daily for several months. I take it out of the holster before I go to bed, put a TLR-3 on it, lay it on my nightstand. Next morning it's back in the holster. Never had an issue till the Smartcarry. I will try to take a picture in a little bit.

I was able to find a couple more old threads on here concerning the rust on the proofs and serial numbers after I posted this. Something to do with the etching versus the roll marks. But very little was said about them.
 

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The proof marks I've seen I think are ALL that gold color and seem to be laser etched in after blueing.

Some HK's (later production) have all or at least most of the markings laser etched in gold; for instance the HK logo, proof marks, and serial #. Some have less gold/laser etched. Mine is all that black on black engraving. The only thing gold on mine are the proofs (stag horn, eagle, AH year code). The serial number is black on mine. . Just thought I'd through this in there.. I have seen other AH year models with gold etched serial numbers though. I guess mine came out during a transition period.. some serials gold, some black.

I heard when you get it refinished you lose all the gold though! Just a heads up.
 

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My P2000 has done the same thing in hot summer months when I sweated through a holster. I'm almost positive the numbers are engraved after the slide is treated. I prevented this by switching to using Eezox on the exterior of the slide. It is great as rust protection.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here it is. This is after oiling it well and buffing it with a terry cloth. Then I oiled it again, let it sit for about 30 minutes, and then buffed it with a towel again. I think this is as good as I can get it. It's a lot better than it was.

 

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I'm pretty sure that at least the proof marks are put in after the surface treatments. Not sure about the serial numbering.
My P2000 has done the same thing in hot summer months when I sweated through a holster. I'm almost positive the numbers are engraved after the slide is treated. I prevented this by switching to using Eezox on the exterior of the slide. It is great as rust protection.
Good to know about the etching.

I hadn't had this happen yet while I carried for 2 years in Virginia (talk about sweaty), but I also carry in a kydex holster. If it was me, I'd just wipe it with oil once or twice a week. Like you mentioned, it's only started with the Smartcarry, so apparently the gun is being exposed to swamp ass more than before.

If you still want to refinish, I thought this guy has an awesome looking P2000:
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-handgun-talk/122854-video-review-hard-chromed-p2000-9mm.html
 

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Good to know about the etching.

I hadn't had this happen yet while I carried for 2 years in Virginia (talk about sweaty), but I also carry in a kydex holster. If it was me, I'd just wipe it with oil once or twice a week. Like you mentioned, it's only started with the Smartcarry, so apparently the gun is being exposed to swamp ass more than before.

If you still want to refinish, I thought this guy has an awesome looking P2000:
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-handgun-talk/122854-video-review-hard-chromed-p2000-9mm.html
Wow that looks real nice. You can still see the HK and P2000 engraving clearly. It's not washed out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If I decide to refinish I will probably try CCRs CPII. They are within easy driving distance and would not have to ship.

The hard chrome above looks awesome. Wonder what that costs? Seems like I have heard some instances where the hard chrome started flaking. Have not heard anything negative about the CPII or NP3. Which I'm just assuming is very similar.
 

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Here it is. This is after oiling it well and buffing it with a terry cloth. Then I oiled it again, let it sit for about 30 minutes, and then buffed it with a towel again. I think this is as good as I can get it. It's a lot better than it was.

Doesn't look that bad. I can see the orange tinge to it. .. Are you using a silicone soaked cloth like a Rusty's Rag or Hoppes 9 silicone cloth? If not, I'd wipe it down once a week or so.. it'll clean it up and provide a long lasting coating of silicone that is not slippery, yet keeps your gun looking crisp and clean.
 

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If I decide to refinish I will probably try CCRs CPII. They are within easy driving distance and would not have to ship.

The hard chrome above looks awesome. Wonder what that costs? Seems like I have heard some instances where the hard chrome started flaking. Have not heard anything negative about the CPII or NP3. Which I'm just assuming is very similar.
If it's applied improperly it will flake, same with electroless nickle, NP3, CPII, Duracoat, Cerakote, or many various types of finishes. I'm sure you'd be served very well by CCR or Robar if you want that sort of finish. Would you add in the slide release levers? I think that's what "makes" Rican Havoc's HC'd P2000, having the slide release levers match the slide and barrel.
 

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If it's applied improperly it will flake, same with electroless nickle, NP3, CPII, Duracoat, Cerakote, or many various types of finishes. I'm sure you'd be served very well by CCR or Robar if you want that sort of finish. Would you add in the slide release levers? I think that's what "makes" Rican Havoc's HC'd P2000, having the slide release levers match the slide and barrel.
When the slide release levers are coated, it looks GREAT! totally makes it. I've even seen some USP stainless models refinished with the slide release lever coated as well. It looks very very good. ... here's a pic I found on the internet.. A nice comparison of factory SS USP and a refinished version (he added front cocking serrations as well)

 

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I highly recommend Eezox. While it isn't the best lubricant, I feel it is the best rust prevention you can get.

It isn't going to cure existing rust, but rather keep any further rust from developing.

 

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H&K 4 LIFE- You just sold me. I'm getting some Eezox tomorrow at the range. Is it just a a lubricant or a cleaner/lube combo like CLP .
 

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I highly recommend Eezox. While it isn't the best lubricant, I feel it is the best rust prevention you can get.

It isn't going to cure existing rust, but rather keep any further rust from developing.

Awesome, very telling. Thanks for posting!
 

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H&K 4 LIFE- You just sold me. I'm getting some Eezox tomorrow at the range. Is it just a a lubricant or a cleaner/lube combo like CLP .
It is supposed to be able to be used as a lubricant, but I do not use it as such. I feel it is too "dry" and there are other better products specifically designed to be lubricants available. Instead, I use Eezox as a corrosion resistant treatment for the exterior of the slide. I spray it on (outdoors), let it dry, and wipe it off.

Awesome, very telling. Thanks for posting!
Read the entire test here. :)
 
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