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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks, I got a PTR 101 quite recently and it's been giving me issues. The first 200 rounds were as expected, a few issues with jamming, ejection issues and the like as part of the break in process. However I've gotten to around 500 rounds and it definitely seems to still have issues, let me explain.

The main issue that I have is a failure to seat the round fully, as in, it's not really getting into battery. What will happen is the first round always fires, but atleast 3 to 4 times per magazine the round will eject and a fresh one won't go into battery, resulting in a click when I pull the trigger and a very light primer strike on the round itself. The bolt itself gets very very close to seating fully, you wouldn't be able to tell from outside the gun, but it definitely isn't going home, and I have to mortar the rifle to eject and cycle the gun.

The ammunition isn't the issue, I've tried New M80 7.62x51 rounds, I've tried some very hot hand loads from a friend, premium store bought match rounds, steel cased surplus, just about everything including very expensive hunting ammunition. That and the fact it doesn't fail to eject leads me to believe that the ammo is hot enough to get the rifle to work, in fact it tosses the casings so hard they often fly about 10 feet. I've also tried many different mags, both of the G3 style and the CETME style.

The one thing I have noticed, is that it seems to be less of an issue when I've just cleaned the gun and gets worse as the day goes on while shooting. So I think that may be an issue of too much oil being applied. As far as oil goes, I put a drop on each roller, a few on the carrier itself and the receiver. However I would like to know how you lube your PTR and whether that may be an issue or not. I have read that people put very light coats, IE a drop or two on a rag and just wipe it down.
 

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The one thing I have noticed, is that it seems to be less of an issue when I've just cleaned the gun and gets worse as the day goes on while shooting. So I think that may be an issue of too much oil being applied. As far as oil goes, I put a drop on each roller, a few on the carrier itself and the receiver. However I would like to know how you lube your PTR and whether that may be an issue or not. I have read that people put very light coats, IE a drop or two on a rag and just wipe it down.
Over lubrication is a myth with rare caveats (don't lube pistons for example) and not your problem. I slather the thing in a good coat of CLP with a shaving brush at every cleaning. I have done so with all my rifles including 26 years of US Army service. Properly set up, A roller lock is hard to kill and I suspect you have a mechanical issue. My PTR 91 GI runs like a swiss watch.

It sounds likes you are experiencing an incomplete lock up.

Disassemble the weapon and closely inspect it paying particular attention to the recoil spring as it is probably worn out or not functioning properly. Take pictures if you can as it will help and be very detailed in your description. Lastly, PTR has an excellent reputation for customer service. Do not hesitate to call them to fix the rifle.

Here is the Operator Manual and Armorers Manual for the G3 series. It gives detailed instructions on lubrication, operation, and maintenance.

Edit'd to remove part about checking bolt gap as you posted it while I was writing the post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Over lubrication is a myth with rare caveats (don't lube pistons for example) and not your problem. I slather the thing in a good coat of CLP with a shaving brush at every cleaning. I have done so with all my rifles including 26 years of US Army service. Properly set up, A roller lock is hard to kill and I suspect you have a mechanical issue. My PTR 91 GI runs like a swiss watch.

It sounds likes you are experiencing an incomplete lock up.

Disassemble the weapon and closely inspect it paying particular attention to the recoil spring as it is probably worn out or not functioning properly. Take pictures if you can as it will help and be very detailed in your description. Lastly, PTR has an excellent reputation for customer service. Do not hesitate to call them to fix the rifle.

Here is the Operator Manual and Armorers Manual for the G3 series. It gives detailed instructions on lubrication, operation, and maintenance.

Edit'd to remove part about checking bolt gap as you posted it while I was writing the post.
I highly doubt the recoil spring is bad, it looks fine to me. As far as wear goes, the bolt carrier has some wear along the rear and the front where the charging handle would interact. The head of the bolt itself looks like its in great condition. There's a tad bit of wear on the sides, but nothing that I would worry about. So I don't think any of the moving parts are really to blame and it might be the actual chamber and the area where the rollers lock into or something along those lines.
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I highly doubt the recoil spring is bad, it looks fine to me.
After ruling out ammunition and magazine issues. that is that exactly what the armorers manual says is your issue with the rifle not locking up. PTR still uses surplus parts. You would not be the first user of surplus parts to find a spring is bad because the surplus rifle it came from was stored with the bolt locked to the rear in the rack. You cannot necessarily visually inspect for a bad spring either.

Food for thought as we try to help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
After ruling out ammunition and magazine issues. that is that exactly what the armorers manual says is your issue with the rifle not locking up. PTR still uses surplus parts. You would not be the first user of surplus parts to find a spring is bad because the surplus rifle it came from was stored with the bolt locked to the rear in the rack. You cannot necessarily visually inspect for a bad spring either.

Food for thought as we try to help you out.
Okay, well ill order a new spring and install it. As well as some spare parts while I'm at it. If the new recoil spring fixes the problem I'll update you all so in the future someone else can use this as reference.
 

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Bolt gap is good... ammunition is not being questioned... magazines are a good option to check, as suggested... but the spring would be good to look at as well as there seems there is no obvious issues on the carrier or bolt.
 

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I'll update you all so in the future someone else can use this as reference.
Looking forward to hearing back from you in the hopes your issue is fixed!

I could not see anything obvious either RollerLOCKED. Unfortunately there is a lot we cannot see and 8 bucks is a cheap price to pay to eliminate the obvious issues.

If this does not work then it needs to go back to PTR IMHO. Something is not put together correctly.
 

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The condition you are experiencing sounds like bolt bounce. Replace your bolt latch spring (and inspect the latch just to verify no damage issues.) If the latch spring is bad the momentum of the bolt going into battery will cause it to bounce rearward just enough to get either light strikes or no strikes on the primer because the carrier is rearward enough that the hammer is striking the rear underside corner of the carrier. It can be maddening because everything appears good AFTER, Since the hammer strike usually finishes seating the bolt.
 

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The condition you are experiencing sounds like bolt bounce.
It is a very similar condition. Bolt Bounce is confined to fully automatic fire.


Bolt Bounce is also the reason why HK went to a tungsten filled Bolt Carrier.

 

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It happens with semis as well when the bolt latch spring gets tired
Yes, and it is called incomplete lock up in a semi-auto. It is a small point and in the scheme of things nobody really cares if you call your boats right side or starboard side. Unless you are pilot, crew member, or a mechanic nobody cares whether you face the front or the back of the airplane when designating the right or left side. It does help especially on the internet trying to figure out a malfunction over a BBS to use precision.

It could very well be the bolt latch spring as well and that is part of the lock up system of the weapon. However, the armorers manual says nothing about the bolt latch spring and most certainly says replace the recoil spring just as Vickers did to fix his Iranian G3 bolt bounce.

Personally if replacing the recoil spring does not fix it then I would send the weapon back to PTR instead of operating in the realm of "let's try this" anymore. The only reason I would even recommend trying the recoil spring replacement is because that is the specific fix to this specific problem according to the engineers would designed the rifle. There is no reason to invest expense and time into a rifle that should have worked correctly in the first place assuming the OP bought the rifle from PTR new. Once more, PTR has a reputation for excellent customer service and from what I have seen, would welcome the opportunity to make things right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay, so I've finally been able to test my PTR with a new recoil spring, annnnndddd.... it didn't fix the issue. I think the plan at this point is to contact PTR and ask them to warranty it.
 

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Yep. You got something going on in the basic build. It very well could be the bolt latch spring but I would stop with the troubleshooting and let PTR do their job.
 
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