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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a PTR 32 PDW (Gen 1)in 2010 or 2011 and have not shot it much based on me being in the Navy and varying gun laws in the states which I have lived. Initially is would fail to eject about 5% of the time. I read on this forum that it may be best to change locking pieces to something with a larger angle so I bought a 60deg locking piece for PTR 32s from HK parts.net. The weapon now ejects great and always shoots the first round but after that I often noted (nearly always) light primer strikes. After further investigation I discovered that the weapon is not returning fully to battery. If I pull the charging handle about one inch and release it the weapon goes into batterie and fires. The more rounds I shoot the better the weapon performs but I suspect this is due to expansion when it heats up. Any recommendations anyone has to fix this would be much appriceated. Thank You!
 

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Did you check your bolt gap when you switched locking pieces?
 

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Is it oiled before you take it out? If you don't shoot it much, might need a good bit of lube, to get parts moving and help it break in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did not check the bolt gap. I will figure out how to do that, then do it. It was well lubercated, this time with oil but previously the same results with grease.
 

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I know the manuals state that until you have passed x amount rounds thru the weapon it is normal to experience ftfeed,fte,ftfire occasionally but after x amount the weapon is broken in and the bolt gap must be checked after x amount. I'm not sure but I think it's 500 rounds
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for the help. I just ordered a set of feeler gauges so I will check the bolt gap as soon as I get them and order new rollers if required. Some how the idea of bolt gap completely slipped my mind. Thank you. I will post more after I check.
 

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I had the same issue on my 32 when it was new, what ammo are you using?
I was using academy brand monarch ammo and had light strikes 70% of the time. I contacted ptr and they promtly gave me the propper cleaning procedure and said to use tula or wolf soft points. I chamged to tula hp and sp ammo and have subsequently solved my issue

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Heres what they sent me
"Hi Tyler,

* * * * * * I'm not surprised that you saw the issue that you did when firing the Monarch ammo.* It's underpowered and doesn't cycle the bolt bolt as quickly as it needs to cycle.* Slow cycling will lead to the bolt not going into battery/light firing pin strikes.* Due to our 32's design, they require FMJ rounds for best reliability as well.**


It's good to hear that the Tula worked better.* I think as the gun breaks in you'll see that the issue you had will clear up.* Please keep in mind that 7.62x39 ammo isn't made to highest quality, so you may encounter a hard primer/primer inset too far into the casing, which can look like your gun is light striking it.* This is the nature of the beast with this ammo. ********


I would recommend cleaning the gun really well per the instructions below to ensure that your chamber flutes are as clean as possible, and allowing all of the ammo's pressure to flow through.* I would also recommend sticking to steel case FMJ rounds.

Do 10 passes through the bore with a .30 cal. brass brush and solvent.* Do 10 passes through the chamber with a .45 cal. brass brush and solvent.* After doing the 10 passes through each area with the appropriate size brush, swab the areas out with cotton patches until the cotton patches come out clean and dry.* It's important to use the brush sizes listed, or else you won't thoroughly clean the bore or chamber.* Not cleaning these areas thoroughly will cut off gas flow/pressure through the chamber, and will lead to cycling issues.After cleaning the bore and chamber, wipe down the inside of the trunnion.* When wiping out the trunnion, be sure to clean all debris/fouling from the barrel face and the two roller pockets (the two vertical milled pockets at the rear of the chamber, they are located at the* 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions).After cleaning the trunnion, please disassemble the bolt group and clean all parts.* When cleaning the bolt head specifically, make sure to clean all debris/fouling from the circle where the back of the round sits, as well as any debris/fouling on/under the extractor.* When reassembling, be sure to put a small amount of lube on the locking piece, sides of the carrier, and the sides of the bolt head that have the bolt rollers.

Have a great day.


Best Regards,
Chris Petersen"

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Thanks for sharing!


Heres what they sent me
"Hi Tyler,

* * * * * * I'm not surprised that you saw the issue that you did when firing the Monarch ammo.* It's underpowered and doesn't cycle the bolt bolt as quickly as it needs to cycle.* Slow cycling will lead to the bolt not going into battery/light firing pin strikes.* Due to our 32's design, they require FMJ rounds for best reliability as well.**


It's good to hear that the Tula worked better.* I think as the gun breaks in you'll see that the issue you had will clear up.* Please keep in mind that 7.62x39 ammo isn't made to highest quality, so you may encounter a hard primer/primer inset too far into the casing, which can look like your gun is light striking it.* This is the nature of the beast with this ammo. ********


I would recommend cleaning the gun really well per the instructions below to ensure that your chamber flutes are as clean as possible, and allowing all of the ammo's pressure to flow through.* I would also recommend sticking to steel case FMJ rounds.

Do 10 passes through the bore with a .30 cal. brass brush and solvent.* Do 10 passes through the chamber with a .45 cal. brass brush and solvent.* After doing the 10 passes through each area with the appropriate size brush, swab the areas out with cotton patches until the cotton patches come out clean and dry.* It's important to use the brush sizes listed, or else you won't thoroughly clean the bore or chamber.* Not cleaning these areas thoroughly will cut off gas flow/pressure through the chamber, and will lead to cycling issues.After cleaning the bore and chamber, wipe down the inside of the trunnion.* When wiping out the trunnion, be sure to clean all debris/fouling from the barrel face and the two roller pockets (the two vertical milled pockets at the rear of the chamber, they are located at the* 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions).After cleaning the trunnion, please disassemble the bolt group and clean all parts.* When cleaning the bolt head specifically, make sure to clean all debris/fouling from the circle where the back of the round sits, as well as any debris/fouling on/under the extractor.* When reassembling, be sure to put a small amount of lube on the locking piece, sides of the carrier, and the sides of the bolt head that have the bolt rollers.

Have a great day.


Best Regards,
Chris Petersen"

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the insight. I generally shoot Wolfe, Tula, or silver bear. This stuff worked best for extraction compared to a large variety of other ammos. New rollers should be in on Tuesday so I anticipate swapping them this week and shooting next weekend.
 

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Bolt gap was .58mm so I ordered new, undersized rollers. Hopefully that will correct the problem.
Your bolt gap was fine. .58mm is .020" which is top of HK's spec of .018-.020" and as you shoot the gun it will settle in right about where you want it. The larger the bolt gap the more recoil energy the carrier has, so I dont think the issue was bolt-gap. I would have tried a new rifle-caliber hammer spring, and clean it well, then lube heavily.

But it sounds like you fixed it, so I guess new rollers will stay in. What was your gap and what size rollers did you go with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
New bolt gap is .36mm. Used -.08mm rollers, I also bought -.04mm rollers so if the gap shifts I may shift rollers. I also changed bolt carriers (even larger bolt gap originally with this carrier).
 

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Personally, I think you were fine at .020" gap, as it was a brand-new rifle. Shoot 500 rounds through it, and then see where it is. Bolt-gap will decrease over time as everything wears in. If anything, I would have only gone with -2 rollers, should put you around .018" which is ideal.
 
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