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PTR 91 GI Ammo and general recommendation list

26998 Views 42 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  ratassassin
Okay, got a PTR 91 GI on order, in the mail and in route to my FFL. I am pretty is my 3rd HK clone for the herd. Got my order in to RTG for some extra goods. I do have some questions for PTR GI owners.

1. Can you recommend some bulk ammo that worked for you?

2. I am gonna check bolt gap and try and run 100-200 rds through it and see how it goes.....see where the gap goes. I want to eventually duracoat the gun hk black. I know I have 1 year warranty and I read a lot of threads on this and other forums. My rifle is in the 800+ serial number range.

At what point would you feel I am good to go with bolt gap settling in and trunnion checks before I am good to go for the actual duracoating?

3. Any other recommendations? I will get the RTG G3/91 survival kit at some point.

THX in advance.
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I dunno if I have 11 or 12 flutes but I believe I have one of the Green Mountain barrels on my AW PTR and it works flawlessly with excellent accuracy
I dunno if I have 11 or 12 flutes but I believe I have one of the Green Mountain barrels on my AW PTR and it works flawlessly with excellent accuracy
Good to here bro, as long as your happy with it.But,the gi models do have looser chambers and are simply NOT as accurate as earlier Wilson& Tc barrels. Don,t get upset everyone,if your happy with U.S. made internals then God bless you. Hope you enjoy your purchase as much as I enjoy my JLD hkparts loaded weapons. My wilson has 10 flute and the TC has 12 and all shoot surplus. Happy shopping,this is why I had an FMP G3 kit built up. It has the chf mg rated chamber /barrel from portugal and will handle any ammo.It is still NOT as accurate as my 2 JLD builds. I actually shoot my rifles and maintain them properly and use many different kinds of NATO ammo and shoot at many different distances..I have all kinds of parts that I will probably never need.This rifle has 2000+ rnds thru it. I didn,t want to post this pic,but here it is. This was my out of the box 2007' JLD91k" after zeroing ofcourse" with the TC barrel with 12 flutes with iron sights at an 8" stick on at 100yrds with Australian surplus,the people at the range could not believe how accurate this weapon is,the holes are literally going thru each other.I shot a few high ones to. My friend cindy was spotting for me.Very fun.Needless to say, I use 5" stick ons now. Just keep her running right.
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That's pretty.

Of course I bought my GI because it would feed anything and be combat accurate with crap/combat/found on the road ammo (that and the welds didn't look like they were made by a drunk monkey with a wirefeed...). And in that, I'm satisfied.

If I was competing, I might think differently... but then I would have bought a heavy barrel too...
I agree ironsights ,reliability comes first always.They are very addictive. Glad yours is a good one.
TCR39, what was the typical fix you talked about on them? Was it a HK locking piece and +2 rollers? If that's it, that's cheap. Mine shot amazing well, after I fire-lapped it. Just did not like the ammo I had a bunch of. PTR actually answered the phone and were pleasent and nothing like the horror stories I'd heard. I got different ammo coming and I planned on it being a keeper. I am actually mounting the B&T mount and the stuff tonight on her.
B&T mount is hand down the best and does not move ,EVER. Make sure you equally tighten the screws. NOW,If bolt gap is around .012 or higher,your probably ok for now. In the future you can always put some +2 or +4 rollers in it later on. I have also found,and so have others;that a brand new HK locking piece FIRST should give you alittle more gap also. The key is,for the rifle to hold at the GAP its at from the factory.It seems alot of these newer rifles are coming from the factory with .010,.011 bolt gaps. Most of mine came with .015 or higher. So just keep an eye on it. It seems their still learning about setting bolt gaps HIGH enough. Wether its soft U.S. steel parts or wrong sized barrel pins,the bolt gaps should NOT be dropping so fast. I have 2000rnds thru one and its still at .012. I have found .012 to .016 to be the sweet spot for me.Just keep an eye on your trunion and check bolt gap after every range trip.Always clean these rifles ,no matter how many rounds you fired or if you think its clean enough. Fouling and carbon are what make WEAR on metal to metal contact area,s, that INCLUDES the barrel and throat errosion to.Again,i do alot of precision target shooting and keep my rifles very clean. Just my exp.
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It seems PTR INC has made the chambers a bit looser to handle surplus ammo. The bvac 150gr reloads from CTD are very accurate out of my FMP barreld rifle and even more so out of the heavier profiled Wilson and TC barrels. I shoot alot of portugese,but I also love the 155gr TAP from hornady. Prvi works well,lithuanian is awesome"if u can find",hirtenberger is by far the most accurate surplus,second to the Australian, wich is very rare now days. The german DAG ammo is very accurate also,but its very sticky nasty black TAR to clean up. I avoid it like tha plague. BVAC 150gr reloads are $116 for 250 rnds from cheaper than dirt. I use it alot and the brass is once fired Lake city military boxer brass. I,m rambling now. LOL enjoy fellas,and shoot straight.
My JLD gun, & my Vector V51P both came to me with a gap of .018". Standard rollers. New POF bolt. GARY N4KVE
Gents, I love these type threads.
The German G-3 and its clones are military type weapons. ie. mud, dirt, sand, water, limited maintenance etc.
It is reliable first and foremost.
One should not have to "baby it".
If one wants a sniper weapon, get a nice heavy barrel bolt gun with a thousand dollar scope and ballistics computer.
The PTR-91 should run all day on any milspec or commercial FMJ 7.62x51 NATO type ammo unless it and/or the ammo has been submerged in salt water for a year or two.
If the weapon doesnt- send it back and get it fixed.
A HK Fanatic that bought my first (2) PTR's that I could not get to run, cleaned them with Naptha-------yes lighter fluid. You can buy a gallon at Home Depot or Lowe's for $9. It dries slower than brake klean and does not hurt plastics or synthetics etc. And it cleans instantly. If you've shot some tar sealed stuff I dip a chanber brush then a barrel brush in it and scrub it a little then patch it out. Do it over a trash can or outside because the crap just runs out of the barrel. I put the plastic tube the brush came in into a round stopper so it will stand up and I can dip the brush in that and not use much Naptha and toss that little bit of contaminated stuff that washes off the brush. It is the best cleaner I've found yet (not for copper jacket fouling, you'll need something with ammonia for that like Barnes) but it's QUICK and CHEAP. Remember you will have to oil patch the barrel when done because it cleans the metal to the pores and left unprotected it will rust. PTR barrels are not chrome-lined I think, but then I assumed that and never looked. ken
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Hey TCR39-- I made my B&T mount 50% stronger, I'll post some pics on a post tomorrow. And yep I tightened it down evenly with rear sight removed so I could check being parallel with flat sight base. I used to race cars so putting on a B&T mount is kinda like torking down a set of high dollar flow-benched Dart Aluminum Heads. Have fun shooting this weekend. ken
As to what to buy next.. I would recommend a German claw optics mount cause they are drying up, and Military contract HK mags aplenty, including a nice stack of the cheap used ones just for target shooting

My next HK purchase is 2 more claw mounts for future HK clone builds. Anyone have a good price on these? CDNN is plumb out..
As to what to buy next.. I would recommend a German claw optics mount cause they are drying up, and Military contract HK mags aplenty, including a nice stack of the cheap used ones just for target shooting

My next HK purchase is 2 more claw mounts for future HK clone builds. Anyone have a good price on these? CDNN is plumb out..
I know,there,s a fero-z hendsolt on here for 600$. I paid 300$ for mine brand new 5 years ago. Damn inflation killin us.LOL
I like the low profile/flattop mounts better than the claw mounts... but then, I also like the A3 stock and there's no place for a cheek riser...
PTR barrels..not chrome lined, wish they were. That or nitrided
Isn't there a nitride barrel lapping compound or somesuch? IIRC reading about a lapping process that did something like that... ???
DUnno. I just remember some barrel lapping/coating product for sale a while back. Seemed a pretty easy to use product and did double duty lapping the bore and sealing the metal for easier removal of fouling...
Ironsights, I mentioned fire-lapping which was developed by David Tubbs and sold thru his company, Superior Shooting I had had unbelievable results with the stuff so I fire-lap everything, rifles, pistols 22's even had them make a kit for my 50BMG. You can buy the kit and load their bullets in your brass or buy pre-loaded complete ammo for those that do not reload. Instead of hand-lapping there are a package of bullets with different very mild abrasives in the bullet jackets. The compound made in the jacket uniforms and polishes your bore, throat and crown. It makes them shoot incredibly better and shoot longer before fouling and easier to clean. The whole process from start to finish will polish out about one ten thousandth of an inch. If it will quit raining I'm going to shoot my G.I. in the morning. Happy Shooting, ken
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That's what I remember, but there was also some sort of metal bonding/coating as well as the abrasive lapping. I'll have to dig.
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