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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The only thing keeping me from getting a Century C308 is that welded-on sight rail. Sorry, but I think it's fugly. Does anyone know if it's possible to remove that rail without screwing up the receiver? Does any competent gunsmith offer this work?

Tnanks in advance,
Dep

:biggrin:
 

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There are older century built Cetme,s without the rail. If I may suggest, why not save up a few hundred more and get a Ptr91? The iron sights are much more precise and it's a definite upgrade from the century C308. Just my advice, but yes; I suppose you could cut the weld with a thin cutting wheel and a steady hand, but it seems unorthodox and would look unsightly. Let us know, and welcome aboard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There are older century built Cetme,s without the rail. If I may suggest, why not save up a few hundred more and get a Ptr91? The iron sights are much more precise and it's a definite upgrade from the century C308. Just my advice, but yes; I suppose you could cut the weld with a thin cutting wheel and a steady hand, but it seems unorthodox and would look unsightly. Let us know, and welcome aboard.
Great suggestion! See post #38 in this thread:

http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-clone-talk/308418-official-ptr91-owner-s-thread-4.html

I am aware of the older Centurys without the rail. I had two of them.
I was asking about current version. :biggrin:
 

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Ghillie bear at PCS here in the vendor section is a great guy and can surely help you out with removing the rail if that's the route you go.
 

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It runs about $200 to add a rail so I would imagine it would cost about the same to remove one. A person is obviously free to spend their money anyway they like but you would now have spent PTR GI non-rail money to have a C308 that is worth even less then you just paid for it.

The C308 is also not a true CETME as it is a mix of CETME/PTR91 parts.

If you don't care how it looks and just want to rail gone, then some careful work with a dremel cut-off wheel will take care of that for less then a dollar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It runs about $200 to add a rail so I would imagine it would cost about the same to remove one. A person is obviously free to spend their money anyway they like but you would now have spent PTR GI non-rail money to have a C308 that is worth even less then you just paid for it.

The C308 is also not a true CETME as it is a mix of CETME/PTR91 parts.

If you don't care how it looks and just want to rail gone, then some careful work with a dremel cut-off wheel will take care of that for less then a dollar.
I doubt it would cost that much. It's a simple grind-off operation that would take a competent gunsmith about 15-20 minutes to do. And yes, I know it's not a "pure" CETME". Those are nearly impossible to find and WAY beyond my budget. DYI is still a possibility. If I can get most of the sight rail off without getting into the inside of the receiver, it would be fine. I would just slap on some flat black paint and be good-to-go. I mean a Century gun is hardly a safe queen. :biggrin:
 

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Grind off, smooth everything out and then refinish. Cost will be close I am still going to say.

If you are fine with a Dremel and spray paint then like I already said, go for it.
 

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Removing the sight rail from a Century C308. Easy. Run it over with a roller/compactor. Then buy anything else starting with HK, EBO, FMP, and then PTR.
 

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Removing the sight rail from a Century C308. Easy. Run it over with a roller/compactor. Then buy anything else starting with HK, EBO, FMP, and then PTR.
He is not wrong, no HK snobbery in that statement. A freind bought an older Century CETME at a gun show. Wouldn't run right (the RADWAY green and accessories that came with it were worth what he paid.) It is one that they ground the rear of the bolt head to create a fake bolt gap. Picked up a "new" carrier assembly from APEX. The bolt gap is .028 with cocking support removed from gun, or .030 if the cocking support is in the cocking tube because there is no cocking tube gap. This is after having fixed the magazine well by reshaping it and some other work on it. I have seriously considered cutting this apart and rebuilding it as a parts kit. As is it needs the barrel repressed and the front of the carrier milled to create a cocking tube gap since the cocking tube is mispositioned from the hacknee milling of a bolt that threw all the dimension off.
 

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Lmao!! I gotta admit that I bought a century years ago and the lower kept falling off the shelf every few rounds. They are just not worth the problems. Just m.o.
 

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Yep, think that's the ticket. :biggrin:
Just keep in mind you WILL be lowering the value of an already low value rifle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Careful everyone....this guy will start throwing around insults in a hissy fit and demanding your credentials soon. Then when you give them he will claim they are the wrong kind. LOL
Sorry if my comments upset your delicate balance. On the internet, you can say and be anything you want. So I question EVERYONE when they start making "authoritative statements" based on what they read ON the internet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So they have one monkey that didn't screw up. I still stand behind my statement.
Tell you what, I'll buy one and when I test fire it you can stand in in place of a paper target. Since you are so sure it is junk, you won't have a thing to worry about.
 
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