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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I recently got a VP9 after years of looking and drooling over it, it hasn’t even been 2 months. I have yet to put any rounds through her, but I’ve added a cheapo light/laser, it’s nice, but the attachment screw is rusting already, and I can’t tell if it’s oxidizing the serial plate under the barrel, and if it is, is that something to quickly adress or is it not a big deal? Thanks all.
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I have a Streamlight TLR-1s and the attachment screw needs to have a bit of oil on it since it is steel. It does not take much oil and don’t keep a light on my VP9 that often either. But the Streamlight instructions said to put a bit of oil on it.
 

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Dremel tool with a carbide bit to the serial number plate… haha just joking. I don’t see any rust on the pistol. Just wipe it down with a bit of oil.
 

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As soon as you fire it, it is a used gun unless it is a safe queen..

as others have said, swap out the screw and maybe a little TW25 grease on it.

the other concern might be how the cheapo light mars up up your mount rails...😆
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As soon as you fire it, it is a used gun unless it is a safe queen..

as others have said, swap out the screw and maybe a little TW25 grease on it.

the other concern might be how the cheapo light mars up up your mount rails...😆
Man don’t even get me started on the rails! That’s from an HK Parts Stand Off attachment that didn’t even come with all of the hardware or pieces! It slid on fairly stiff but I figured that’s how it rolls, then it wouldn’t budge to get it off. I had to use a vice to remove it, damaging the rails in the process. That happened within 2 hours of picking it up!
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When are people going to learn those stupid accessories do nothing but damage their frames?
Given the urge to put a flashlight on the gun and the plastic rails molded in by the manufacturers, I'd guess never.

The major purpose of those rail segments is to lock the pistol into a leather holster so you can't get it out when required. That leads to the proliferation of Kydex holsters that acts as sandpaper on the gun's trigger guard and the front edges of the slide.

BTW, IF you are going to use a stainless bolt then be aware that if the nut is also stainless they have a tendency to cold weld together. (Look up stainless fastener galling.) A pretty good way to cut down on rust is to use some car wax on the metal. Works great on blued guns.
 

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Say what?
Sorry, a tiny bit of dripping sarcasm on my part.
Point 1:
People being people they will almost always try cheap junk even when they know it is cheap junk.
Accessory rails on most handguns are pretty durable but molded plastic rails are plastic and when you clamp/screw stuff to plastic you often will mar it up. (Ditto aluminum, maybe to a lesser degree and steel is not immune although depending on the method of attachment and the finish might or might not show it. Reference the fact that when you slap a clam scope mount on a HK-91 it often results in scratches on the receiver.)

Point 2:
Building on historical commentary, particularly from when pistol accessory rails first started showing a few decades ago, regarding such rails hanging up on holsters. Part of this may have been trying to use a holster not designed for use with a railed gun. Part of it may be friction pinch bolts near the muzzle/dust cover that may have tended to lock the holster on the pic section of the gun. I know I have a couple branded Kydex holsters that are molded for railed guns where you can see the pic cross cuts as dimples on the outside of the holster and matching protrusions on the inside of the holster unless they've been sanded out. Combine the holster issues with the fact that a large percentage of folks never use the accessory rails for anything and you get my comment that they are mostly good for causing problems getting the gun out of the holster.
 

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Well designed weapon lights do virtually nothing to HK frames. I use Surefire X300’s on my carry guns and none of them exhibit the gouges and other damage that has commonly been shown to result from the use of these airsoft accessories sold as “compensators” and “standoff devices”.

Frame and slide wear from a holster is one thing, actual damage (gouges) are quite another.
 

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Well designed weapon lights do virtually nothing to HK frames. I use Surefire X300’s on my carry guns and none of them exhibit the gouges and other damage that has commonly been shown to result from the use of these airsoft accessories sold as “compensators” and “standoff devices”.

Frame and slide wear from a holster is one thing, actual damage (gouges) are quite another.
I’ve owned around 10 polymer HK pistols, I’ve used every type of tac light… all have left marks regardless of price. It is what it is.
 

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Rust does not spread like a disease from one part to another. It forms on the surface of any part which is subjected to enough oxygen and moisture, usually after a temperature change that causes condensation droplets on the surface of the part. I once turned a pistol from black to orange after leaving it in my car during the winter. It was resting on a rubber-lined pocket shelf just to the left of the steering wheel, and because it was freezing cold and I got in every morning and cranked up the heat, condensation had formed on the surface of the gun almost immediately. The pistol was orange in less than a week.

Don't put your VP9 through scenarios where it'll see constant high humidity (> 80% RH) or sitting condensation on it, and you'll be fine.

FYI - That orange discoloration on the threads of that screw might be some type of thread-locking compound. FN uses something that looks like dried Coca-cola on their SCAR rifles in various locations (e.g. barrel extension, muzzle brake) as a high temp thread-locking compound. Are you 100% sure it's really rust?
 
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