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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to decide on either a burst pack or SEF picto ambi. Aside from the KISS factor, why is it that most people recommend the SEF packs?

Also, I'd like to know what makes a burst pack more difficult to use with an HK sear. From looking at schematics, I can only see that the factory catch is different by being integrated with the release lever. Ok, so use an SEF release lever. It must not be that simple, though.

A number of people I respect have suggested that I forget a burst pack due to 'headaches', so I want to be sure and do my due diligence before discounting them.

Thanks for any tips!
 

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Trying to decide on either a burst pack or SEF picto ambi. Aside from the KISS factor, why is it that most people recommend the SEF packs?

Also, I'd like to know what makes a burst pack more difficult to use with an HK sear. From looking at schematics, I can only see that the factory catch is different by being integrated with the release lever. Ok, so use an SEF release lever. It must not be that simple, though.

A number of people I respect have suggested that I forget a burst pack due to 'headaches', so I want to be sure and do my due diligence before discounting them.

Thanks for any tips!
A burst pack is not at all more difficult to use with an HK sear, it's just a little more difficult (i.e. expensive) to convert to accept an HK registered sear. The factory roller catch in a burst pack is not straight across, it has an offset in it. Since registered sears don't have this offset, the pivot location for the registered sear must be moved, and a notch extension tab must be welded onto the hammer.

And they are definitely more difficult to dis-and reassemble because the mechanism is much more complex.

But what you can't tell from looking at diagrams is that the pivot hole for the registered sear must ALWAYS be relocated from the factory catch. By ATF law, they must be in a different location, which is why the registered sears are a slightly different physical size than the factory ones.

Once setup correctly, burst packs run just fine. However, besides the CDI (chicks dig it) factor, they are not at all necessary. With a little practice, you can do 3 round bursts on a full-auto pack when in the full-auto position just with trigger finger control.

I have a burst pack, but now use a navy pack all the time. I do use the burst pack every now and again for one thing - if I'm shooting the G3 with someone that's inexperienced with machine guns, and definitely with someone who is new to large caliber rifles alltogether, then I'll use the burst pack. I'll let them shoot it in semi mode a few times to get a feel for the recoil, then in burst mode a few times, and then finally to full auto.
 

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I can't speak to the complexities of burst packs, but the only gun I had with burst was never shot in burst mode. Actually, as was just mentioned, it was put in burst on 2 or 3 occasions for FA newbies. Even then, it was immediately thrown back into auto. If the idea of having a burst pack really trips your trigger, then get it. Otherwise, don't waste your cash.
 

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I have the Navy pack and love it.

It is not that complicated and even if the burst did go bad.... the Single and FA modes would still work.
 

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I have the Navy pack and love it.

It is not that complicated and even if the burst did go bad.... the Single and FA modes would still work.
Do you have a Navy pack and a burst pack? I have both, but haven't used the burst pack since I installed my sear into the Navy pack.

But you're right about the mechanism not being that much more complicated. More complicated doesn't necessarily mean more prone to failure. All the burst counter does is ratchet a lever forward, after the third shot, it allows the semi-auto trigger disconnector to re-engage.

It looked like it may have been a mother to design, but mine has been 100% reliable. And once you understand how it works, you realize it's just a SEF pack with a few extra parts in it. They just took what they already had and built upon it, like many products do.
 

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When I purchased my sear a year ago I was also trying to decide between a sef or burst pack. I went with the burst pack because I thought it looked cool.
If I could do it all over again, I would get the sef. Nothing wrong with my burst pack, but the KISS principle is definitely more appealing to me now!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the comments. Not an easy decision for me. I just dont want to be in a spot where I more often than not wish I had the burst feature (for whatever reason). Proper trigger control is of course better in the long run. But, I'm a big "what if" kind of person..

Someone with a burst pack, can I ask what the sear install was? About $1k?

Also, on a related note, apparently even installing into a navy picto ambi lower is more complicated than an SEF? Guess I figured they could just cut a hole and put another level on it..
 

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Skip the burst. Solution to a non-existent problem. More to break, and tempting and foolish to take apart.

Go NAVY!
 

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I agree with Pro! The burst pack is not needed for anything other than looks, so why bother? You can easily learn to do singles, doubles and triples (except for Diesel) in the full auto mode.

One reason that some folks prefer the actual SEF triggers (as opposed to other 3 position triggers) is that the SEF's have the thumb/finger groove on the grip. The Navy's do not. Personal preference.

FWIW, I got rid of my SEF Z group (worst abomination known to man) and put on a Navy picto ambi 3 position.
 

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Thanks for all the comments. Not an easy decision for me. I just dont want to be in a spot where I more often than not wish I had the burst feature (for whatever reason). Proper trigger control is of course better in the long run. But, I'm a big "what if" kind of person..

Someone with a burst pack, can I ask what the sear install was? About $1k?

Also, on a related note, apparently even installing into a navy picto ambi lower is more complicated than an SEF? Guess I figured they could just cut a hole and put another level on it..
Here's how my shooting sessions go with my burst pack - Flip from safe to semi-auto, then one or two shots on semi-auto. Then up to burst, fire off about 6 rounds. Then flip it up to full. For the rest of the session, it stays on full all the time.

And here's your "what if" you'll be thinking about - You'll be thinking "What I still had that extra $300 I blew on a burst pack?" Answer - shooting a lot more. That money would have bought a few thousand more rounds of 9mm.

Getting a reg. sear installed into a burst pack will run from ~$200 - ~$300. The pack itself will run anywhere from $400 - $600 depending on if you buy used or new.

But no, installing into a navy pack is no different than an SEF pack. The pack frame on a navy pack is absolutely identical to the SEF pack with one exception - the hole where the selector passes through the pack is a different size. That is it.

But the modifications to the pack frame to install a reg. sear are exactly identical in each - cut the front bottom corner off (including the original catch pivot hole so a factory catch can't be installed any more), relocate the catch pivot hole, install the reg. sear. Retime the hammer and go start using your high-speed MP5 magazine UNloader - the way it was meant to be done. :)
 
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