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I purchased a JLD 10 flute PTR91 from a local guy. He said he had fired less than 50 flawless rounds out of it using SA surplus. I have only used Winchester White Box in it and except for the first round, I have had 17 straight FTEs with the brass being crushed, mostly on the front side of the ejection port, and sometimes on the lip of the chamber. After the first six or so, because the brass was so dirty, I gave it a cursory cleaning, and the chamber was filthy. After having the same issues, I gave it a thorough cleaning, and just now I had three more FTEs in a row. With the exception of the first round I ever fired, every round has been a FTE. When I hand cycle the weapon, the extracted rounds do not eject, instead staying hooked on the bolt face under the extractor.
I am not sure this has anything to do with my issue, but in this first picture the bolt is locked back. You can see a approximately 1/8 inch gap between the extractor and the top of the slot in the bolt;
I can push the extractor all the way up into the slot, but it springs back when I remove pressure. One thing I noticed when I pull the bolt back, approximately 1 inch from the bolt lock position the extractor is all the way up in the slot, and then when it reaches the bolt lock position, the extractor moves down into the position shown in the picture.
I will add that the bolt locking lever spring is EXTREMELY strong, and I cannot even depress the lever with a brass punch. This makes taking the bolt a part a reassembling it extremely difficult. Also, and not sure if this is related, but unlocking the cocking lever is pretty difficult.
This picture shows the extractor location when the bolt is about an inch from being in the bolt lock position. I am holding the handle in this position. You can see the extractor is all the way up in the groove;
This picture just shows me hand cycling the rifle with a bullet stuck on the bolt face. The bolt is locked back;
Here's my typical FTE;
Here's a couple of pictures of my crushed brass. The first picture is prior to a thorough cleaning of the rifle, the second after the cleaning. In the second picture the casing on the right was actually jammed between the buffer tube and the bottom of the bolt;
Here is a couple of pictures of my bolt, and one of the trigger group;
I can supply any other pictures required. And I appreciate the help.
I am not sure this has anything to do with my issue, but in this first picture the bolt is locked back. You can see a approximately 1/8 inch gap between the extractor and the top of the slot in the bolt;

I can push the extractor all the way up into the slot, but it springs back when I remove pressure. One thing I noticed when I pull the bolt back, approximately 1 inch from the bolt lock position the extractor is all the way up in the slot, and then when it reaches the bolt lock position, the extractor moves down into the position shown in the picture.
I will add that the bolt locking lever spring is EXTREMELY strong, and I cannot even depress the lever with a brass punch. This makes taking the bolt a part a reassembling it extremely difficult. Also, and not sure if this is related, but unlocking the cocking lever is pretty difficult.
This picture shows the extractor location when the bolt is about an inch from being in the bolt lock position. I am holding the handle in this position. You can see the extractor is all the way up in the groove;

This picture just shows me hand cycling the rifle with a bullet stuck on the bolt face. The bolt is locked back;

Here's my typical FTE;

Here's a couple of pictures of my crushed brass. The first picture is prior to a thorough cleaning of the rifle, the second after the cleaning. In the second picture the casing on the right was actually jammed between the buffer tube and the bottom of the bolt;


Here is a couple of pictures of my bolt, and one of the trigger group;



I can supply any other pictures required. And I appreciate the help.