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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After a LONG battle with paint matching and weld cracking, Phase 1: Magwell Conversion is FINALLY done... and holding!









COMMING SOON:
Phase 2: Tbostic's Gen-3 kit
Phase 3: Optics
Phase 4: CAMO PAINT!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What do you normally paint it with?
Thanks everyone! Tbostic recommended Rust-oleum Textured Black for Platic available at Home Depot. My original dilema was too much sheen and I finally figured out to hold the can about 24-in away and let the paint go on "dry" with VERY minimal coverage on each coat. Took 3 applications to cover it (about 15 mins between coats).
 

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Very nice job with the magwell, CK. May I ask what filler you used?

And I know some sanding is involved and normally makes a new surface smoother than its surrounding. So how did you get the "haircell" texture to match? Is that from the paint itself? And did you mask off most of the receiver or did you just keep coating the magwell area? Looks killer!

Sorry for all the Qs. I've been wanting to do the same thing and you guys just inspire me to just do it. But I want to do it right.

All the best to you coming phases!

Tom
 

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Thats a mighty fine job you've done there! :D

Your planning on Tbostic's 3rd Gen block? or one of the less "intrusive" stock jobs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
May I ask what filler you used?

And I know some sanding is involved and normally makes a new surface smoother than its surrounding. So how did you get the "haircell" texture to match? Is that from the paint itself? And did you mask off most of the receiver or did you just keep coating the magwell area? Looks killer!
I didn't use filler, I actually plastic welded it. The "window" was made from the cheek-rest cover (notice in the photo that it's missing). Was a good piece to use because it's thick. My orginal piece was from the original magwell which was thin and was merely a bonded cover.

Anyways, I milled a "channel" into each side of the receiver so that they fit together without movement. Then I used a Weller 140 watt soldering gun with a flat tip and melted the seam area on each side about 3/4 of the way through (not for the faint at heart) refilling with the material the "oozed" out along with strips that I sheard off from the scrap cheek-piece. The trick was to go VERY slow so that the heat "liquified" the plastic. Then I flipped it over and did the same thing (only about 1/4 - 1/2 through) from the inside using a "pen" style tip. I did the same again to the top surface, welding the the thin plastic bar left from the initial mill to the window cover.

At this point, I had enough receiver to work with to hit it again with a mill to get the G36 mag to fit leaving an almost "factory" look from the bottom (my original finish came out much cleaner but I didn't have the mag handly to measure so I went back with a dremel tool which it why it looks a bit "rough").

Lastly, I went over the exterior welds with 120-grit on a small vibrating sander and then feathered/finished it with 200 and a Scotch-Brite pad. The interior welds were cleaned up by the milling process.

I flex tested the weld by gently twisting the receiver. I could see the flexing (much more than would be seen in normal operation) and the welds held. And after about 100-rds... still good to go.

The paint is textured. It's not an EXACT match of the original texture but it's pretty close. If the final is too rough, after 3-4 days of drying, put some lighter fluid on your finger tip and gently rub in circles across the surface... this will take off the "sharpness" of the texture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh yeah, I DID mask the receiver with an automotive masking technique which left a nice "feathering" affect.
 

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Chopstix...

That thing looks great!!!

Keep us posted!

V
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
what flashhider is that ,and is that the original barrel of the SL8?

Beta
I'm not sure whos flash hider it is. The dealer I purchased the rifle from had their smith do it... I simply requested a U.S. made 4-prong that as close a match to the "K" hider that they could find. I'll check with the dealer and see if he can find out.

Yep, original SL8 barrel cut down so that barrel & hider are 18.9" - G36E length. I opted against finding an "E" barrel simply due to cost and parts count. I may swap it out later when I'm completely done with the conversion for the mere sake of an "authentic" look but the heavy barrel really does shoot nice.
 

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Thanks for sharing your success story with the plastic welding and all. I have a couple decades of modeling and RC racing under my belt, so the Dremel and soldering irons are my friends. I now can't wait to do tackle this type of project.

Do you plan on doing this with Tom's Gen3? And does anyone have a pic of it?

Keep it up CK!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Do you plan on doing this with Tom's Gen3? And does anyone have a pic of it?

Keep it up CK!
Again, thanks everyone! Yep, just waiting on Tom to get back with on his preferred method of payment so I can get one sent.

Here's a slightly older post by SMGLee on his Gen-3.

http://hkpro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63491

The pics have fantastic detail of the process. Since I'm going to plastic weld everything I probably won't use the reinforcing rod other than to help keep things square during the welding.

Just remember, Nylon 66 melts at 400 degrees so you need a gun that's going to not only generate enough heat to do the melting on contact, but enough heat to also melt surrounding plastic WITHOUT contact (but not too much). 140W was adequate but it was slow to get he surrounding plastic to melt from the radiant heat. Something in the 180W-200W range might work better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Attn: Beta

Nice done what flashhider is that ,and is that the original barrel of the SL8?

Beta
I checked with the shop that I had do the work. They were going to check with the smith but I haven't head back yet. When I do, I'll let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
CK, how's your progress going toward Phase 2?
It's for the most part done. I ended up sandblasting (alum oxide) and spraying the entire receiver with textured paint so I'm just giving it a few more days for a full cure. I've documented the process pretty well so I might just wait until after I get the base Desert Tan sprayed on there and do a full write-up.

Thanks for asking!... almost almost!

FYI... The Gen-3 kit is NOT made from Nylon 66 so I couldn't plasic weld it... used Devcon Plastic Welder II and LOTS of it. I eventually got the strength and quality finish I wanted, but it took considerable more time vs if I was able to plastic weld it.
 
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