HKPRO Forums banner

SP5: The one thing I hate about it, what do you do?

3.5K views 53 replies 37 participants last post by  bp77  
#1 ·
I absolutely love the SP5 but I’ve got one issue that bugs the crap out of me. The threaded barrel! For the life of me I can’t keep the thread protector from backing off while shooting. I just got my new Specter 9 which I plan on primarily using on the SP5. I only use 3 lug mounts on my sub guns.

I remove it when the can is on as I worry about the thread protector backing off and ruining my can and possibly more. But even without the can I have to take it off.

what do you guys do? I’ve considered rock setting it in place but wonder with the heat of the can if it would hold. It works on flash hiders so figured it would on the cap.

thoughts?
Image
 
#9 ·
Put some dings in the threads with channel locks, then use channel locks to put thread protector on :whistle: Yes's, I'm just trying to be silly/funny. I have never heard of the fingernail polish trick. I would think blue locktite would melt and not do much, But Josh is was smarter than me. I totally would give there ideas the first go ;)
 
#10 ·
I bought an MP5N kit that I haven't built yet. It didn't come with the thread protector. I spent the money and bought a real HK thread protector for it. I think it was like $59.00 plus shipping. hopefully i don't have this problem down the road
 
#23 ·
When I got the Octane 9 for my AP5, I purchased their tri lug adapter. I had read the can wouldn’t fit over the knurled MKE thread protector, so I ordered a smooth one. Sure enough, the can wouldn’t fit over the knurling, while it fit perfectly over the smooth one. Tightened by hand, it never budged after the range session. Just last week I started using an O ring. No loctite, no nothing. GARY.
 
#25 ·
The (FREE) Parker o-ring handbook has a great section on material selection. Grainger sells (Chinese-made) o-rings for cheap. McMaster-Carr's are usually a bit better. For "bottom of Lake Michigan for 1-year" instrument housings get the Parker brand from Great Lakes Rubber. Louis Viton <sic> for the win.
Loctite 222 (purple) if you prefer that path. You can also use it on scope rings for your .22s to keep them from vibrating loose if you travel with them a lot. A hair dryer or an electronics heat gun and a rubber strap wrench will remove the blue Loctite if the purple 222 doesn't satisfy you.
 
#29 ·
I’m lost on what you are saying.
He is saying that this:

I remove it when the can is on
...is a bad idea.

The suppressor needs the thread protector for proper alignment.

Because:

All three reiterated to me the importance of keeping the thread protector on when using the 3-lug option of installing a suppressor. Iirc, they said the 3-lug indexes on the thread protector to keep the suppressor from wobbling minimizing/eliminating the chance of a baffle strike.
 
#34 ·
I could not quickly find my HK blueprint, but here is a similar copy posted on this site by another member. The tip of a 3-lug barrel is the index inside of the can. From the tip down to the lugs. It needs to be .590" +/- .0015 other wise the can (especially a long can) will wobble and can cause a baffle or cap strike by the time the bullet gets near the end of the can.

The biggest problem is that the thread protector is machined separately. AND a lot of people can thread and knurl a small piece of tube.

Here is the problem-

There are two types of knurling, (1) distortion & (2) Cut. 99%, and most of what you will see or find, is distortion. It is usually meant for gripping by humans, or just traction for gripping a moving belt or something non-critical. It is usually made by 2 rollers pushing or squishing onto the metal (ie Distorting the metal) after the final cut. You have very little control over the ending diameter.

Cut knurling is more advanced and a "newer" process in where the cross hatched pattern is "cut" into the final metal profile (removing to create a valley) leaving the "peaks" at the O.D. the area was machined to, with out "raising" or "increasing" the O.D.

You could distortion knurl and then grind the final O.D. also, but that's another setup process.

A true "thread protector" is just that. It is a protector of the threads. The only dimension that matters is the inside thread for fitment.

However, on a "dual option" HK 3-lug, it is giving you a "second option" for attaching things to the barrel. The knurling is no longer just grip. Therefore the piece now has TWO critical dimensions- inside & outside. Most people don't know, don't understand, or don't care.

I have experience with buying a "high quality" barrel from a popular HK parts vendor, only to find out after cap strikes on a sub-gun that the "thread protector" supplied was NOT from the "high quality" barrel manufacturer, and was instead just a cheap distortion knurled thread protector from another party that the seller chose to substitute due to cost savings. That other party, that was just cranking out less expensive thread protectors to be competitive because a step was being skipped, they didn't know what they were doing, or they were not told what it was being used for. (buyer beware I guess) I blame the "popular vendor" who saved a nickel on matching two different manufacturers. But that is just my opinion. (the barrel manufacture knew the dimensions and the issues, but was asked to NOT supply his protector !)

On a second note- putting suppressors on 3-lugs is another one of those "American" things. HK did not design the 3-lug for a suppressor, it was designed to hold a bayonet and flash hider and some other light weight thing (or something like that). Similar to putting cup holders in a car. Another "Americanized" design.

Image
 
#35 ·
Really appreciate the explanation! I had no idea. How many people would read a manual emphasizing using the correct factory <insert part> and just say, "Bah! This one from Steve's discount is less than half the price" and F up their <HK, Porsche, TAG Heuer>.
 
#39 ·
As others have mentioned…. Purple Loctite. I had the same question about a year ago and that is what was recommended. I tried it and have yet to have an issue on mine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dtibbals
#41 ·
I always leave the thread protector on the barrel when using 3 lug mount and suppressor.

I personally have never had a problem with the thread protector backing off on either HK SP5 or the Zenith ZF5 and therefore never needed the use of Rocksett on either of these so far.

Regarding Rocksett, I’ve used extensively on AR15 and M16 muzzle devices and never had any issue with removing it when needed.

Just boil water in a microwave and insert muzzle into water and let set 15-30 minutes, and
unscrews easily.

High Temperature Resistance:
Rocksett can withstand temperatures ranging from -350°F to 2,015°F (-212°C to 1100°C), making it suitable for applications exposed to high heat like muzzle devices on firearms.

Removable with Hot Water:
Rocksett can be removed with a hot water soak, making it a good option for applications where disassembly might be needed later.