Well I had an early SW3 and it worked quite well. It was built during the Clinton AWB and had a fake flash hider. After the ban sunsetted I tried to install and collapse a retractable stock, but it was not possible. It would also not lock a Thermold in place, but I have seen SW3 guns accept Thermold magazines, so that is not a blanket statement. I paid $1000.00+ for it during the ban era when Hks in genral were pricey as there were very few US mfg clones like there are now. Obvioulsy that has changed with JLD, so adjust the price down according.
If you "Have to" / "Want to" get an SW3, the best way to do it is in person so that you can Inspect it.
Not all of them are Turds, but you really have to check it for yourself.
I do have an SW3 that seems to be in spec and has never given me problems. It shoots Straight, takes all kinds of mags including Thermolds, and aftermarket stocks. Then you hear about the Horror stories of the SW3's that won't even eject a round or cycle properly in semi auto.
Good Luck if you go after it!
The receiver on those are not stamped, but cast stainless steel, which is a bit thicker, so mounting a optics on it is going to limit you to the B&T low profile mount. I bought a CENTURY C-99, and a CETME that has the same SW receiver.
With a SW it's going to be a hit and miss on it functioning.
There were Stamped SW3's early on from flats that he had just like the MP5 flats that he sold/is selling on gunbroker. His cast receivers must have come from his reverse engineering efforts and are a bit thicker. Either way buying anything that he produced is hit/miss so it is always better to inspect in person.
Make sure that the barrel is fluted properly. Some of the SW barrels had shallow chamber flutes and would not extract properly. On a properly fluted barrel, the flutes should look rounded at the bottom. On the old stainless SW barrels, the bottom of the flutes look as though they've been cut with a sharp tool, and have a "V" shaped profile.
I have a original claw mount from H and K... I had my local gunsmith who is familiar with H&Ks look at it and he used a small fine belt sander to take some material off the mount feet... He said it was normal for most factory guns to need a small amount of material removed from the mount... it was a really close... He said that the (left side) feet are also replacable... at least they were in 99... not sure if that is true or not.. but my scope mount rezeros perfectly after being removed... I love it...
I tried a retractable stock and it did not fit. The mag release/well works well for thermolds only... I bought a steel mag that did not fit... I think it is a common thing to look for so make sure it comes with mags or works with the ones you have...
The manufacture did not put the clamp on the cocking tube that has a hole for the push pin for the hand gaurd/fore stock... The fore stock rattles... I want to fix this...
I was hoping that I can get it refinished and have that front mount put on...
At the time because of the CA ban it was the only thing I could get... i wish PTR/JLD was around then... I could not afford a real and K but should have tried to spend the extra $1000... I was just out of college at the time.... I could afford it now!!! Stupic CA laws!!!!
Mine is fine. It needed to have it's trigger group shimmed up so it would function with lower powered ammunition. Never pay too much for one of these, $300-$900. Either make arrangements to shoot 60 rounds of ammuntion through any prospecitve gun or negotiate the right to return the firearm if it does not function with your chosen ammunition. It is also polite to clean the weapon if you decide you don't want it anymore.
Mine is not a tack driver, but I can hit a pepper popper pretty consitantly at 50 yards on the move.
Clones are for treating badly and wearing out. My HK91 is scoped long range rifle that gets lots of TLC.
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