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I just checked the bolt gap. My smallest gauge is .008 and it does not slide in BUT the V53K runs great (I've got 1,300 rounds fired). I spoke with Jeff at the new Vector. He explained that the guns that were produced by Companion (sister co to Vector) were built with a bolt gap near .013 but later found the gap shrunk considerably. The new company is setting the gap somewhere .020 - .030 to compensate.

Jeff offered to send me a call slip & reset the bolt gap and check the gun out now or I can wait to do it later if the gun begins to malfunction later. What do you all feel is the right move? Shattered: please chime in as I remember you stating one of your guns rocks n rolls with ZERO gap.

Thanks
 

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Have three options:

Put in larger rollers.
Send it back.
Run it until is fails and/or get a lower gap.

I would consider larger rollers, if only because they live in the parts box, and typically send it back during the poorer shooting season. Which with the current temperatures is now in the south west and to a lesser degree the midwest ;-).
 

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My gap on my v53 was pretty much non existent. I found by changing to a genuine HK locking piece instead if the ground vector unit, it came right back into spec. Even though they were technically the same angle/number.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My gap on my v53 was pretty much non existent. I found by changing to a genuine HK locking piece instead if the ground vector unit, it came right back into spec. Even though they were technically the same angle/number.
fullmann: is yours a K? I don't think it is that simple a swap? If I'm wrong then which LP?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Of course the easy answer is ...... send it to OK for vacation and get it done correctly for a nominal price.
John: I hate to send in a gun that is running well unless continuing to do so would damage the gun or the operator. I assume from your earlier reply that I should not be concerned, right?
 

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Sounds like you answered your own question, or your like me and just waited for the reply you wanted.... :)
 

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Why not try over size rollers for the time being?

Too many variables for me to state that you are ok with a slightly out of spec non HK standard 223 (i.e. the barrel is a shall we say a little shorter than what comes out of Germany ... but looks interesting).... of course the other answer is call GB.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sounds like you answered your own question, or your like me and just waited for the reply you wanted.... :)
HaHa I can see your point. Just looking to those more experienced in case I was missing something. Think I'll add the +6 rollers and see how she does.
 

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fullmann: is yours a K? I don't think it is that simple a swap? If I'm wrong then which LP?
mine is not a K, I guess I missed that in the original read. but changing a locking piece is very easy. check HKparts and see what they have in stock.

as far as what angle, I'm not sure, being a k and all, I'd assume the standard 53 LP would work, but I dont know.

ETA:
when I shot mine with the non existent bolt gap, it worked fine, until I started adding stuff.... with the can it worked in semi, and with the sear, it worked in auto. but when I combined the two, the rate of fire was that of an m11 with a macjack in it, and the roller marks were all up and down the rails. then it jammed, and wouldnt fire with that combo again for the day. I learned my lesson, and never combined the two again.
 

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"Ground vector unit"????

Shades of century.. Vector is on my "don't buy" list now
 

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Thanks for the links, very helpful in understanding the roller lock. In thinking about this issue, has anyone ever used a high speed camera to establish reference velocity for the roller lock systems in various calibers? It seems to me this would be the one objective standard that could be used, and I am curious how the speeds differ (if they do) over the various calibers.

 

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Thanks for the links, very helpful in understanding the roller lock. In thinking about this issue, has anyone ever used a high speed camera to establish reference velocity for the roller lock systems in various calibers? It seems to me this would be the one objective standard that could be used, and I am curious how the speeds differ (if they do) over the various calibers.
Since the gun in question is a "HK"53K with the shorter barrel, I am guessing an easier opening locking piece than a HK53, the velocity differences would be an interesting option. Guess one could also put a pressure sensor behind and/or an accelerometer on the the bolt group.

On a budget wonder if coating the inside of the roller contact area with layout dye would show anything like roller "bumps" (aka pre receiver dimples).
 

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The gun I had with no bolt gap was my pounded to hell and back SW5. Todd has since repressed the barrel and it is now running at a nice 700 rpm. It was previously running at about 550 rpm and we jokingly referred to it as a slo-fire SW5.

I have used a real HK #15 locking piece and the 70 degree HK-23 locking piece with great results. Think that is a #20T locking piece. Runs a bit faster with the 20T, but mine is a LOT slower than a real 53K. I'm using a 53 type carrier and should have probably cut it down to 53K weight, which would have involved chopping off almost 2 more inches of the top of the carrier tube. I DO need to speed it up some and am thinking about swiss-cheezing the cocking tube to get rid of some weight. That way I don't need to lengthen the cocking handle tube. (then again... if the cocking piece was longer, it probably would stop trying to pop out the ejection port)...


sigh...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
John: my gun is a "V53K". After reading your great links I've decided to send her back to the Mothership. Vector said they will repress the barrel & get the head space to .020+. Let's hope she runs as good when she returns.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
V53K update: Vector was great and sent me a call tag and off she went. I checked in with Braden and found he hadn't gotten to her yet but was curious after I explained that I had zero bolt gap. He calls me back in 30 minutes to say that he and others checked the gap and that I'm at .018". The next day he checks her out real good and then test fires with my semi pack and then, at my request, installs one of their f/a packs and she runs perfect. I decided it must be my bad, but how? The day I checked the gap on the V53K I also checked it on 4 other hosts. All of which were .018 - .021". I did happen to verify the rollers were standard before sending and upon returning. And yes my .018" gauge slips in with a slight nudge to help. Have not had a chance to take her to the range yet.
 
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