[paul123]

the PSG-1 clone in progress new updates!

it should be all welded togeather in about 2 week, all of the work has been performed be me, so far for what all of the parts cost me, RDTS charges to just build the rifle (i think he includes the barrel,rails and forward assist)

JLD receiver
Rhinemetal carrier, factory HK91 bolthead,lock pc,pin etc..
black market parts PSG-1 trunnion

the scope is a factory hensoldt ZF6x42PSG1

the cocking tube, scope tabs,notching for the forward assist on the bolt carrier, and the factory PSG1 forearm have all come from one board member who i cannot possibly say enough nice things about, THANKS JFK!!!!

factory PSG1 trigger pack and grip, its a joeken 25.5 barrel but i had it checked by a VERY trustworthy gunsmith, both rockwell hardness and bore are perfect,

the receiver rails are RDTS they are perfect (they better be for 195$

the forward assist assembly is made by DANO'S, and a VERY good looking piece. its machined from a chunk of steel on a CNC mill, RDTS's forward assist is cast and doesent look quite as nice,well it can look just as nice it just needs alot of elbow grease.

i can post a comparo pic for those interested.

i did not have any issues with dano as people have stated in the past, i sent him a money order and 3 days later i had my assist, he was a very nice person to deal with and i would do buisness with him in the future

thanks for lookin!!! oh yeah and sorry for the crapy pics, i have a 40$ olympus cam. (all my money was spent on the PSG1

 

[hkmatt]

Nice looking gun, please post a range report when you get it done. I am interested to see its accuracy. Also do you mind me asking how much $$$ you have in it?
Thanks

 

[paul123]

i think without busting the calculator out i have about 3100$ into it,
i try not to think about it and god help me if the wife finds out

i still need to get a butt stock though, the one i have is a friend of mines who was insanely cool enough to let me barrow it for a while

 

[11C ABN]

Good to Go

I’m going to chime in here and tell you that you will not find a more humble person then Paul 123. He and his wife have given freely of their time.

His knowledge of H&K, Gunsmithing and training as a machinist has made our group build a real pleasure. He freely lets us use his home and (snap-on tools) and other equipment. While showing us different methods with explanations as to why a certain options may work better when building our particular weapons.

About JFK – Ladies & Gentleman this person makes a product that is second to none. He also gives you detailed explanations on how to use and install his products. He is a wealth of knowledge on many of the issues you may and/or may not encounter in your build of H&K PSG-1 and/or MSG-90 or just H&K Clones projects. When he gets done with the DVD on building a PSG-1 clone I will be first in line standing at the door to purchase a copy. He is that good!!!!.....

Wait for the finish product of these builds.

 

[csbrit007]

Nice work nodder! PM sent with questions for you.

 

[jfk]

Thanks for the kind words Nodder and Robert. So far Nodder's gun looks like like it's coming along very well. I've been busy working on little side projects besides regular work and the family.

I'm still going to take pics and do a tutorial on how to build an MSG90 hybrid clone. (Hopefully before Fall/Winter. I have to dig a hole in the backyard 8'X15'x4' for the pond. The Fung Suei thingy I've been putting off for the last three years. Unfortunately I cannot get a small Bobcat into the yard so it will have to be dug manually so working on parts this winter will be minimal.)


A few little tips for Nodder:

25-35 amps on the TIG for the rails, scope tabs, and cocking tube. About 70 amps for the spot welds on the trunion.

The handguard should be installed and the cocking tube should be indexed prior to welding. Make sure the heat sink is used for the cocking tube weld.

I use regular steel MIG wire cut in small sections for filler rod. The filler goes on small and the welds will look great. No hiddeous globs of molten metal that will require grinding/sanding, jaws of life, plasma cutter, etc.

I believe Nodder has instructions and the jig I made him for the sight tab install.

Take your time for the rail install. One small weld/seam at a time. Allow the weld to cool down before moving onto the next one. If the bolt carrier gets stuck, you'll know which one needs to be fitted. Make sure you practice with some thin pieces of metal before doing the rails.

When refinishing the gun, make sure every nook and cranny is blasted before parkerizing. Either zinc phospahte or maganese phosphate is fine before painting the gun. I'd suggest buying a pint of Gunkote satin black and a pint of flat black. Use two parts flat black to one part satin black. The results will surprise you. Good luck!

Here's a pic of some JFK cocking tubes that were TIG weleded with MIG filler rod:

 

[paul123]

thanks for the tips jimmy! way ahead of you on useing the mig wire for filler rod it works good to control the amount of filler put in. the only disadvantage is its had to feed into the puddle when you have gloves on

the jig you made fits very well inside the receiver for the cocking tube

the park tank is all set up, im going to blast the gun completely the do maganese phosphate then airbrush it with duracoat H&K black. it should look pretty good when its done, barring any horrendeous burn through with the tig welder me and robert are going to cataloge the whole build with pics (i'll get a better camera by that time i promise

the barrel is allredy pressed in and is headspaced, i got it to .018 and that held after i drilled and cross pinned it into the trunnion. if it shifts after a test fire i'll compensate with some different rollers.

thanks for all your help jimmy. if i could get to your house sooner then 12 hours i would help with the pond

 

[hkhound]

Great looking PSG1. What about a paddle mag release? They sure are handy. Post more pics when you are done. Thanks.

 

[AviatorDave]

thanks for the tips jimmy! way ahead of you on useing the mig wire for filler rod it works good to control the amount of filler put in. the only disadvantage is its had to feed into the puddle when you have gloves on

Check one of these out:

http://www.daytonamig.com/images/Tigpen.jpg

They are great for feeding your filler wire.

 

[paul123]

that tig pen is pretty cool, i have to look into that.thanks dave


to answer the question about the paddle mag release, im not putting it on because a factory PSG-1 doesent have one. now if i were doing an MSG90 that would be a different story

 

[AGG]

Extremely nice! Any reason you did not go the MSG90 route?

 

[paul123]

i bought a factory PSG1 scope that and i really love the PSG-1.
I'm currently on the market for a Factory MSG90 scope and when i find that I'll start piecing together a MSG90, it may be a year or so down the line though

 

[AviatorDave]

that tig pen is pretty cool, i have to look into that.thanks dave


to answer the question about the paddle mag release, im not putting it on because a factory PSG-1 doesent have one. now if i were doing an MSG90 that would be a different story

Are you going to remove the claw mount bumps as well? I want to try one, but I'll practice on some demilled receivers first. I need to practice more until I perfect my mad tig skillz, yo.

 

[paul123]

no the claw mount bumps are going to stay, to me it seems like alot of extra work and im not that skilled with a tig........yet if i was doing the build on a real H&K receiver i would.

BTW did that inventor file for the forward assist houseing work out for you???

 

[AviatorDave]

no the claw mount bumps are going to stay, to me it seems like alot of extra work and im not that skilled with a tig........yet if i was doing the build on a real H&K receiver i would.

BTW did that inventor file for the forward assist houseing work out for you???

Yes, I got the inventor file, but the actual pawl is missing. I was going to email you about it, but forgot.

And I'm going to practice tig welding until I can get good enough to fuse a 94 receiver with a MP5/10 or /40 receiver. Hopefully the Miller Dynasty 200DX I've been searching for will help me in that regard. The scope bumps actually look easier to remove than the /10/40 build, but time will tell.

 

[csbrit007]

Dave when you decide to attempt the 10/40 conversion I sure would like to see some pics of where you cut and fuse the parts together.

 

[paul123]

almost finished check out the new pics

i finally got it all together and parked the rifle, welding on the side rails was probably the most difficult thing, i melted the front off of the left side rail and had to build it back up and grind it to look like the rest of the rail, that sucked

scope tabs took me forever to align correctly, but the time paid off the scope doesnt cant left or right and it sits nice and level.

please give me an honest opinion on the welding if it sucks really bad i might go back and re do some, it still needs to be duracoated and there were some rust spots starting to form so i had to oil the rifle, but when i get ready to paint it ill clean it all off.

and once again i apologize for my photo taking abilities

here ya go!

 

[jfk]

I think it's coming along well, especially for a first build.

 

[paul123]

well at least i didint pick a 21 for the first time

 

[AviatorDave]

i finally got it all together and parked the rifle, welding on the side rails was probably the most difficult thing, i melted the front off of the left side rail and had to build it back up and grind it to look like the rest of the rail, that sucked

scope tabs took me forever to align correctly, but the time paid off the scope doesnt cant left or right and it sits nice and level.

please give me an honest opinion on the welding if it sucks really bad i might go back and re do some, it still needs to be duracoated and there were some rust spots starting to form so i had to oil the rifle, but when i get ready to paint it ill clean it all off.

and once again i apologize for my photo taking abilities

here ya go!

I think the welding looks ok. Especially compared to what I've seen from some other mass clone producers. You can clean them up with a dremel a little and they're look really nice.

What are you using for a tig welder?