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Hello! New guy to the forums and I've been doing a lot of research into the Century C93. I'm a college student and I absolutely fell in love with the H&K 93 platform first time I held one. I'm about to buy a C93 in ten days, and I've had my experiences with CAI before (The golani sporter was a nice gun, but chamber was too tight to run anything but expensive brass cased ammo.). I'm very very excited to get mine, as they are not in high demand here where I live. However, I have some concerns.

1.) Bolt Gap
-If I got this right, Acceptable bolt gap for this rifle is between .010 and .018. Is that right? or is the tolerances bigger?

2.)Ammo types
-I'm thinking about running tulammo through mine because it's steel cased and wont rupture the case inside the chamber like brass cased will (from what I can understand.) Is this right?

3.)Manufacturing defects
-Besides from Bolt Gap, what else do I look for when i'm in the store, and I'm presented with two examples of the rifle? I've heard of canted front sights, but how do I look for that, and what else? I'm not too horribly sure of what to look for.

4.) Magazines
-I hear the MKE 30 Round Translucent magazines are great, and I'm thinking about picking up 2 more after I get them. Other than that, I dont know what other magazines there are besides that and the H&K originals (Crazy expensive).

I'm not sure if I'm missing anything. I know Im gonna have to work on this rifle to make it work perfect, and im willing to do that. I love guns and I love me an H&K!
 

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1: correct

2: steel cased ammo such as Tulammo will work fine.

3: Look at the front sight as you aim down the barrel. You can quickly tell wether or not it is straight... unless you're crossed-eyed.

4: The MKE mags may need to be fitted to your gun. They are certainly durable. The aluminum 40s and a couple of steel 25s are all I have however... besides the Beta C drums, that is.

Oh... and welcome to your new addiction... and this board.
 

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2.)Ammo types
-I'm thinking about running tulammo through mine because it's steel cased and wont rupture the case inside the chamber like brass cased will (from what I can understand.) Is this right?
Any case can rupture. However the steel case seems to work fine.

3.)Manufacturing defects
-Besides from Bolt Gap, what else do I look for when i'm in the store, and I'm presented with two examples of the rifle? I've heard of canted front sights, but how do I look for that, and what else? I'm not too horribly sure of what to look for.
Look for a fully and properly welded trunion.


4.) Magazines
-I hear the MKE 30 Round Translucent magazines are great, and I'm thinking about picking up 2 more after I get them. Other than that, I dont know what other magazines there are besides that and the H&K originals (Crazy expensive).
The MKE mags seem to work OK. Minor fitting may be needed. The OEM H&K mags work the best... quite a bit more money, but they are quite a bit better.
 

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C93 furniture quality can vary greatly. The bad stuff is easy to spot.

Also... check to see if the bolt face was ground down and resurfaced by a professional, or a body shop wannabe.

Check the welds and stamping points for cracks or creases.

If you happen across a good one, or even a fair one you will REALLY enjoy it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also... check to see if the bolt face was ground down and resurfaced by a professional, or a body shop wannabe.

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Thanks for the advice guys! I was looking at either this or the Polish Tantal, but I love me an H&K a bit more!

Would the bolt face look smooth if it was the first case? or would it still look like junk, just shinier?
 

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can someone supply pics and make it a sticky? side by side comparison of what to look for overall in a c93 as in good looks like this ---> bad looks like this --->

it would help me out as one would be a cheaper, cooler alternative to an ar (at least i it think it would be) but i have shied away from them as i would hate to buy one then have to spend just as much as it costs to get it right.

???
 

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CTREE makes mag adaptors for the Pmag magazines. I have put 3 together but havent been out to shoot them. Also, a groove has to be cut in the magwell so the mags fit but that only cost me $40.
 

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As Shattered said check for front sight cant.. use one eye and look down the line. if you have "machinist's eye" as I do it will be easy to spot
 

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I just purchased a C93 myself. I got one with the Serial Number on the top of the receiver which I hear is much better than the SN on the side. When I purchased it the bolt gap was .011. After 140rds I have a bolt gap of .005. Needless to say as soon as the tax money gets here next week Ghillie bear is getting a new rifle and barrel to work on in his mailbox. If you purchase one if I was you I'd plan for a re-barrel. It's a shame too because the first 140rds I had not a single FTF, FTE. It was accurate and kicked less than any M16 I ever had ahold of in the Corps. It's going to make me a great rifle but the fact that it needs work within the first 200rds is a little out of control.

Good luck,
Merritt
SGT USMC vet.
 

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I just purchased a C93 myself. I got one with the Serial Number on the top of the receiver which I hear is much better than the SN on the side. When I purchased it the bolt gap was .011. After 140rds I have a bolt gap of .005. Needless to say as soon as the tax money gets here next week Ghillie bear is getting a new rifle and barrel to work on in his mailbox. If you purchase one if I was you I'd plan for a re-barrel. It's a shame too because the first 140rds I had not a single FTF, FTE. It was accurate and kicked less than any M16 I ever had ahold of in the Corps. It's going to make me a great rifle but the fact that it needs work within the first 200rds is a little out of control.

Good luck,
Merritt
SGT USMC vet.
I will be in the same shape soon although the seller here says it has held gap. I know in advance that I needed a RCM barrel (have it now) and the help of Master Ghillie. He will do you right. Be sure to find out all he can do so you get a nice gun. IMO the paddle mag release mod is a must. He told me to buy the top serial number make as those receivers are better to work with
 

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Thanks for the advice guys! I was looking at either this or the Polish Tantal, but I love me an H&K a bit more!

Would the bolt face look smooth if it was the first case? or would it still look like junk, just shinier?
Ideally the bolt face would be untouched as from the HK factory. I have heard rumors that some of the Century C93's were able to ship this way, AND have the headspace correct. However, most of them have to have the bolt faces ground down to fit properly. It can be a light polish to a serious grind job. My rifle had a shabby grind job. I cleaned it up a bit, rechecked the headspace, it was OK... then spent a whole lot of time cleaning up the bad furniture and a few other imperfections. I must say though... after the break-in period, the rifle performed flawlessly and was a pleasure to shoot.
 

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What to look for on a C93? A Vector 93... :D


Sounds like you have a good handle on what to look for. The sight issue is the big one...
 

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Wait, is it the bolt FACE that's been ground or the REAR face, the bolt gap side? All these years I've been thinking it was the bolt gap side so fix me if I'm wrong.
 

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That is what I have read unless my eyes are crossed, it's the bolt gap rear side that the Century drunken monkeys did their grind-fu on
 

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If you EVER see one that has been ground, it will be INSTANTLY OBVIOUS!!
It should look as smooth and clean as the side of the bolt head, or almost.
I almost bought a CETME back in '07 until I tore it down and saw the MONKEY WORK!!
 

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Grinding the bolt anywhere does absolutely nothing for the gun. Yeah, the "gap" will appear to be correct after grinding, but the rollers will still be where they are, so if it's not working, grinding will not change anything. All it does is take a bit of heat off them temporarily when they frak a gun up during the build. Only reliable cure is to repress the barrel... correctly, this time.
 

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how much more than buying a century and getting all the crap fixed would it cost to just buy a 33 parts kit (under$350), a receiver from SW ($150), a RCM barrel or a used one from gunbroker or wherever for ($100-200), and a few little parts to make you 922 compliant and send it to Ghillie to be built right to begin with? You would know it was a quality build, that had correct gap, and a receiver you can use any stock on, or scope mount, paddle mag, etc...

I just wonder how much more this way would cost over buying a maybe decent gun, that prolly needs some kinks worked out? Just wondering not century hating.
 

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Because Century is like nickle slots, except you usually don't lose at least some of your initial investment. You may win big, or you may end up with a parts kit.

The lure of the big win is hard to resist, especially when it can be sorted out relatively easily if you lose.

That being said, although I'm a roller locking clone whore in .308 and 9mm, I've kept all my 5.56 guns limited to the AR platform.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
how much more than buying a century and getting all the crap fixed would it cost to just buy a 33 parts kit (under$350), a receiver from SW ($150), a RCM barrel or a used one from gunbroker or wherever for ($100-200), and a few little parts to make you 922 compliant and send it to Ghillie to be built right to begin with? You would know it was a quality build, that had correct gap, and a receiver you can use any stock on, or scope mount, paddle mag, etc...
Broke College Student. I can barely fathom up the money for a Century, much less a custom build that costs a lot more than what I make now. I think i'll just buy the century now, pick the best out of the batch, and when i get enough money, then send it to ghillie and have him repress the barrel and make it phenomenal. Right now, If it works, it's good to me.
 
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