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Discussion Starter #1
I have my SEF Fleming sear pack apart right now, should I install my new Urbach re timed hammer in it. Or save it? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would unless your existing hammer is already a re timed hammer.
No its not. I will be shooting it in MP5,MP5K,HK93 and HK91. I bought and I honestly don't know what a re timed hammer even is. I know that's stupid on my part. Thanks for the reply.
 

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No its not. I will be shooting it in MP5,MP5K,HK93 and HK91. I bought and I honestly don't know what a re timed hammer even is. I know that's stupid on my part. Thanks for the reply.
Transferable sears are a unique design and are relocated in the trigger box from where the original sears were. The retimed hammer simply corrects the geometry to put the hammer in the correct position when the sear is engaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Transferable sears are a unique design and are relocated in the trigger box from where the original sears were. The retimed hammer simply corrects the geometry to put the hammer in the correct position when the sear is engaged.
Thanks for clearing that up for me!!
 

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Yeah... the Fleming "H" series style sears (and others) are relocated a mite lower and further back from where the "catch" (sear) was normally located. The retimed hammer puts the geometry back in sync.
 

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I'm wondering what you would "save" it for? You need it now! Never knew how much difference it made in timing, etc until I had my sear put in a factory pack by TSC. Now all my hosts run like they are suppose to run.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm wondering what you would "save" it for? You need it now! Never knew how much difference it made in timing, etc until I had my sear put in a factory pack by TSC. Now all my hosts run like they are suppose to run.
I had it in my parts kit. I didn't really understand how much it would help me until now. I really didnt understand what a re timed hammer was until now. I finally got the nerve to disassemble my SEF pack, so I installed it. It stayed in my parts kit for three years because of my ignorance. Thanks for the post.
 

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I had it in my parts kit. I didn't really understand how much it would help me until now. I really didnt understand what a re timed hammer was until now. I finally got the nerve to disassemble my SEF pack, so I installed it. It stayed in my parts kit for three years because of my ignorance. Thanks for the post.
Well they have still left out some key information. By placing the hammer back in the correct geometrical position, that slows down the cycle rate of the gun by making the required travel distance farther. This gets it back to near the normal rate for a factory full auto weapon. And this is the key reason it is called a re-timed hammer. This very small amount of delay helps the bolt assembly get into full battery before the hammer makes contact with the firing pin. This greatly improves most problems with getting the timing corrected in these converted guns.
 

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Additionally, here's Adams photo showing how much lower the re-timed hammer sits in the left trigger pack.



Another thing this is quite helpful for is the .22 conversion kit you can get for the G3. With the standard hammer, you have to put a 2" rubber tube over the recoil spring to keep from getting the bolt locked back behind the hammer. With the re-timed hammer, it's not a problem, as the hammer sits low enough not to catch the bolt.
 

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I'd rec' just leaving everything exactly like it is (not replacing the hammer) IF the pack runs great in all your hosts and you've been happy with the ROF, etc. While a re-timed hammer prob couldnt hurt...why risk it. Honestly though...the hammers are fairly easily exchanged so you could try it both ways , etc.

hh
 

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I'd rec' just leaving everything exactly like it is (not replacing the hammer) IF the pack runs great in all your hosts and you've been happy with the ROF, etc. While a re-timed hammer prob couldnt hurt...why risk it. Honestly though...the hammers are fairly easily exchanged so you could try it both ways , etc.

hh
+1 to the second part "Honestly though...the hammers are fairly easily exchanged so you could try it both ways , etc." about trying it both ways. If you have never experienced proper operation, how would you know how the system should run? When I bought my Vollmer converted 94, I checked into the difference between a standard F/A hammer and a retimed hammer with a registered sear. My understanding is a standard hammer with a sear will make for faster cyclic rate. I bought the set up specifically to compete in subgun matches. I had used a 9mm conversion in a Colt M16 RR and had function problems. My brother, on the other hand, had bought a converted 94 with a sear. The only problems he had were problems he created. Running in a subgun match with steel targets, being able to pull singles makes ammunition management easier.

IMHO, compared to the cost of a HK host and sear, a retimed hammer is cheap. If you are using a standard F/A hammer with a registered sear, my understanding is function will tend to be faster (higher cyclic rate) than a factory gun. Some like faster cyclic rate. Although I'd imagine that the faster than factory function would tend to make for function problems in a "K" platform. The "K" is known for a fast cyclic rate to start with. I'd think that between the fast function of a standard F/A hammer with a sear and the faster cyclic rate for a "K" would make for function problems. I'd imagine with that high a cyclic rate the mag would have a hard time keeping up.

I should be home from the out of state job I'm on. I can't wait to try the "K" clone Jeff made for me (SW receiver with factory K parts set). I don't think that will be a gun that I'll use in subgun matches. But it should be a blast to shoot when "burning ammo" for fun. My wife told me my three "Dragons" (53Ks w/ SW53 AR receivers) Jeff built have showed up at the house. Again, those will be for "shock & aw" ammo burning. But with the speed of a K system I'd want it slow enough that I don't have function problems. Good luck with your retimed hammer project. YMMV.

Scott
 
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