true! cant forget thatHK UMP de-milled receiver section for fused jobs. And a rear axle pin to install HK stock.
My SL8 was gray and had the G36 rear fused. It actually gets painted, not dyed, and looks fine.Has any one ever done a fused job onto the back of a grey USC? And then got it dyed all to black. Wondering if it still looks funny as in color difference or not.
Many folks dye them before paint so that if they get a nasty scratch, you don't see it nearly as much when there is black below. I would suggest this approach. You certainly don't need to start with a black SL8.My SL8 was gray and had the G36 rear fused. It actually gets painted, not dyed, and looks fine.
The other part you'll need for a fusion job is a demilled rear section like this:i just found his price list in his forum section
what parts would I have to provide?
HK USC
HK UMP lower
HK UMP 30 rnd mag
3 922r compliant parts
HK stock
am i missing anything?
The chop job by Chop will have the same LOP, as he's grafting an original rear end of the receiver onto your USC receiver. I've only done the HDPS block conversions, and have one myself. The LOP seems very natural to me, I'm 6' tall.Anyone know the LOP difference between a UMP chop job and a TN or HPDS block? I don't think the LOP improvement on the USC is nearly as dramatic as on the SL8. I'm 5' 10" and the LOP was horrible on my SL8 with the TN/SW stock, even with the shorter C stock, but the LOP on my USC with the TN block doesn't bother me.
No, I mean the difference in LOP from the chop rear end conversion (which I understand is the same LOP as the real UMP) to the stock block conversions from TN or HPDS. In other words, how much does a chop conversion improve the LOP?The chop job by Chop will have the same LOP, as he's grafting an original rear end of the receiver onto your USC receiver. I've only done the HDPS block conversions, and have one myself. The LOP seems very natural to me, I'm 6' tall.