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Discussion Starter #1
Well, after a lot of e-mails about this I decided to order a $50 LEM kit from CDNN and make the conversion on my USPCT clone but retain the safety.
If you do not have instructions print them out from my other post on the USP/C LEM installation. You need the instruction because they are more complete than I am being here.

Here are the parts from the kit that we will use. Clean well to remove all the grease then coat lightly with CLP or Militec 1.



I want the light trigger pull so I am going to retain the USPC firing pin block spring as well as the USPC trigger return spring, so the TRS in the kit will not be used.
I am also going to use the USPC safety, detent plate, slide plate and compression spring, and hammer axle. Therefore I will not be using the hammer axle in the LEM kit.

So, unload and remove the mag and the slide. VERY carefully let the hammer down with your thumb. DO NOT SLIP HERE or frame damage can result.

Remove the lanyard loop pin with a small punch, remove the lanyard loop, and hammer spring. Save the hammer spring. You may not want to use the spring provided in the kit. More on that later.


Using a 3/32 punch, lightly tap out the sear axle from left to right with the muzzle of the frame pointed away from you. Watch it because when the detent plate clears it will come out. Remove the detent plate and save because you will use it later.


Remove the disconnector, part on far right.



Remove the catch.



Remove sear complete



Remove the sear (I found it easier to remove the sear complete first, then the sear even though the directions reverse these two items.



Using a 1/16 punch push down on the slide plate, rotate the control lever to 12:00, and pull out completely.
Then using the punch through the control lever hole, push up on the slide plate and remove it and the spring. Save the slide plate and spring because you will put it back in later.



Now, use a larger punch, 3/32 worked fine, push down on the trigger bar with your finger and and push out the hammer axle left to right. Also lift out the hammer.


Following the directions in the kit, assemble the hammer and cocking piece and cocking piece spring. The spring goes to the left of the hammer with the right leg of the spring facing up and in the notch on the muzzle side of the hammer and the left leg pointing toward the muzzle.
Put grease on these parts to hold them all together and while pushing down on the trigger bar again take the OLD hammer axle and with the notch facing down, slip it through the three parts.
Notice the position of the spring leg on the face of the hammer.


Now, install the slide plate and spring, depress with the 1/16 punch and with the control lever at 12:00, slip it in.



Now the fun part and where the dental pick comes in real handy.

Use the hook to grab the leg of the spring and pull it toward the rear of the frame and push the sear down, making sure the leg rests on the rear face of the spring when you release it.


Install the disconnector, assemble the complete sear and catch together and drop in, making sure the hook goes around the hammer axle.
Now, take that 3/32 punch and start working it through from the right side until you get all the parts aligned, then push in the sear axle from the left, pushing out the punch as you go, but this time, push it in until it is FLUSH with the LEFT side of the frame, sticking out a little on the RIGHT side of the frame. Take your detent plate and slip it in just as it came out, compressing the side plate and spring slightly. Once in, completely push in the sear axle and make sure it seats flush on the RIGHT side of the frame, retaining the detent plate on the left side.

Now, you put back in the hammer spring, lanyard loop, and lanyard loop pin.
I used the hammer spring in the kit and got a 5 pound, 5 ounce trigger pull.
Putting back in the factory standard Compact hammer spring the pull was reduced to 4 pounds, 12 ounces and feels plenty strong to me.

Now you have your LEM AND a safety. Of course the decocker will not work but you do have a safety that so many people want.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
If you have read this, go back and re-read it and if printed out, make a new copy because there have been some changes made. I had some omissions in it that were brought to my attention and they have now been corrected.
 

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Great idea. One question : if I use a V9 control plate, will I get rid of the decock function and keep the safety ? I did not get the part yet but I'm eager to try...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The decock function will no longer work even if you do the swap to a V1 as I did. On a V1, after the LEM conversion the lever will still move down to the decock position but it does not decock so there is no reason as I see to not go ahead and use the V1 detent plate.
Now, if you do not like the lever moving down into the decock position even though it does not decock, you can put in the V9 detent plate and I think that will keep the lever from moving into the decock position but that is a personal call.
 

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OK, sorry for the misunderstanding. I just wanted to stop the downward motion of the lever with the V1 (V1 + V2 actually) plate. Of course it does not decock anything... I will get a V9 plate on Thursday and I will test it, but I'm pretty sure it will work.
We now have a nice setup. Let's call it V11. or V8. Whatever.
 
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LEM

Awesome step by step. Where did u get the kit ? I didnt see them on CNN website.
Thanks
 

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Where can I get one of these kits!!! CDNN does not have any, and I cant see to locate anyone else that has any??? Please help! Oh yeah, there is some guy sniffing paint that wants $125 for a kit. Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
CDNN is out now and the average price for the full kit is about $125. That is roughly HKs price but if you shop the usual HK sellers you may find them cheaper, but you won't find them anywhere near the CDNN $50 price.
 

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LANDPIMP gave me the hookup. Thanks for the info! I appreciate the response!
 

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Once the take up is "taken up" how comparable is it to the V1 SA pull? You said you bought your kit from CDNN? I couldn't find it on their website.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Remember, this was posted a long time ago. CDNN had the kits for about a year but they have been sold out now for quite some time.
The take up on the initial shot and break of the trigger is very similar to the SA pull on a standard V1 in SA mode except with the LEM you will see the hammer moving back to full cock as you pull the trigger. There is a little more stacking at the end but not much. I have not noticed it but others have commented that they feel there is a bit more stacking but that would mean that the take up would be lighter than with the SA V1 since they break at about the same pull weight.
 

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very nice and helpful. I have done some in depth Glock work but I know HK is a little different.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The safety still works I suppose?
Of course, wouldn't be much since in retaining it if it did not. However, the decocker will not work. It will depress downward but will not decock.
 

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OK, sorry for the misunderstanding. I just wanted to stop the downward motion of the lever with the V1 (V1 + V2 actually) plate. Of course it does not decock anything... I will get a V9 plate on Thursday and I will test it, but I'm pretty sure it will work.
We now have a nice setup. Let's call it V11. or V8. Whatever.
The V9 plate only has the safety and not the decock, correct? According to this article (old but did an amazing job explaining the LEM functionality) he had even the safety removed when he sent it into H&K for the conversion. So it has no control lever at all, right? Anyone else do this?

"The H&K LEM pistols, like their regular DAO models, can be obtained with or without a control lever safety. I chose to not have the lever retained when my pistol was converted to LEM. I did this for a number of reasons: (a) The safety isn't necessary; (b) No liability issues of whether the pistol was on safe or not prior to firing; (c) To eliminate concerns that the pistol might be accidentally put on Safe; (d) The pistol is more comfortable in an IWB holster without the control lever; and (e) The absence of the control lever gives a cleaner access to the slide lock release lever. "

Full Article
http://www.outdoors.net/site/features/feature.aspx+Forum+Firearms+ArticleCode+901
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The V9 plate only has the safety and not the decock, correct? According to this article (old but did an amazing job explaining the LEM functionality) he had even the safety removed when he sent it into H&K for the conversion. So it has no control lever at all, right? Anyone else do this?

"The H&K LEM pistols, like their regular DAO models, can be obtained with or without a control lever safety. I chose to not have the lever retained when my pistol was converted to LEM. I did this for a number of reasons: (a) The safety isn't necessary; (b) No liability issues of whether the pistol was on safe or not prior to firing; (c) To eliminate concerns that the pistol might be accidentally put on Safe; (d) The pistol is more comfortable in an IWB holster without the control lever; and (e) The absence of the control lever gives a cleaner access to the slide lock release lever. "

Full Article
http://www.outdoors.net/site/features/feature.aspx+Forum+Firearms+ArticleCode+901
Normally LEM conversions do not have any type of control lever. The only safety is the FPB, the long take up, and the safety between the ears. I chose to retain the safety for reasons I listed. With the V1 detent plate which I retained, the lever will depress into the decock position but it does NOT decock. The only difference between the V9 and the V1 detent plate when used in the LEM is that the V9 detent will not depress, but remember, neither will decock in the LEM conversion. Both work as Safe Only.

According to his reasons for NOT using the safety, here is my take.
A. That is correct.
B. Also correct.
C. When you train "on safe," there is no accidentally put on safe situation likely to happen: making up a reason here.
D. Not if the holster is made correctly which most are, in that they cover the slide and safety of the pistol on the body side completely.
E. Not if you are familiar and know how to use your pistol. If you know your pistol there is no fumbling and nothing is going to get in the way of your slide release. He is nit-picking here.
 
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