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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
When you take out the hammer axle you have to press down on the trigger bar to remove the axle, and again when you install it. Under the trigger bar there is a detent and spring which puts upward pressure on it. Is there any chance that the spring/detent came out? The trigger bar fits in and is under the sear I believe and that little tit on the trigger bar trips the sear to release the hammer. It is pretty much a fixed item and cannot be installed incorrectly. If you have the trigger bar with its detent and spring in there and the sear went in, then the trigger bar pretty much has to be in position.
With the pistol unloaded and magazine removed, rack your slide and let it go forward. Then remove the slide from your pistol. With the slide off your pistol, take your thumb and pull back on the hammer. It should pull back easily since the hammer spring should be compressed. As you pull it back the trigger bar should move forward and the trigger should move to the rear. While controlling the hammer, pull the trigger and let the hammer go forward slowly. Then thumb back the hammer again. It should be quite hard to pull back since you will be compressing the hammer spring and you will hear two clicks and the trigger should move rearward as you thumb the hammer back. When you let go of the hammer it should return forward and so should the trigger. If all this is happening then the trigger bar is aligned OK.
If you racked your slide, then removed the slide and your hammer spring is not compressed or you cannot thumb the hammer back and cock the hammer spring, something is out of whack. It almost has to be the cocking piece is not installed correctly, the cocking piece spring is not installed correctly or is broken, or possibly the flat spring has been broken. The only other thing I can think of is the trigger bar spring and or detent is missing. I cannot think of anything else it could be.
 

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Big Bore,
You nailed it. The trigger bar spring was missing. It had fallen out when the strut fell out when I was initially disassembling the gun the first time. All is well and the gun now appears to be operating correctly. I will test fire it as soon as I can get to the range but all is well now. (I do plan, before going to the range, to tackle the trigger return spring replacement as I find leaving the original in there make for a too weak return for my taste.)
Thanks again for your detailed help and patience.
 

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Whoops, I have another question. I installed the TRS with no problem. However, I ended up with a 5-coil spring left over from the LEM kit. What's is this for and where should I have installed it? I didn't see anything in the instructions about this spring.
 

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Uh oh...

So I did the install using the v9 detent plate, when I rack the slide, the first trigger pull is VERY light. The subsiquent trigger pulls seem to opperate normally. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Whoops, I have another question. I installed the TRS with no problem. However, I ended up with a 5-coil spring left over from the LEM kit. What's is this for and where should I have installed it? I didn't see anything in the instructions about this spring.
5 coil spring, that sounds like the firing pin block spring. The one in your pistol already is fine. By changing it out to the kit spring you will add a pound to the trigger pull and leaving the standard FPB spring in there does not cause any problem like the leaving the TRS in there does sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
So I did the install using the v9 detent plate, when I rack the slide, the first trigger pull is VERY light. The subsiquent trigger pulls seem to opperate normally. Any ideas?
Are you racking the slide each time between trigger pulls? If not, that is the problem. The LEM needs the slide to cycle, like it does when you chamber a round or fire a round, in order to cock the hammer spring. If you are not racking the slide between pulls of the trigger you are having to compress the hammer spring by pulling the trigger. This action is normally done by the slide cycling.
 

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5 coil spring, that sounds like the firing pin block spring. The one in your pistol already is fine. By changing it out to the kit spring you will add a pound to the trigger pull and leaving the standard FPB spring in there does not cause any problem like the leaving the TRS in there does sometimes.
Thanks Big Bore for that info. I did replace the TRS and the mainspring with the ones that came with the kit. Took the LEM converted UPS 9mm Compact out to the range last week and it fired beautifully. I just converted my HK45C and plan to do my HK45 this weekend. Your instructions for the USP are easily adapted to the HK45 series. Thanks again for your great help!
 

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Since CDNN doesn't have them any longer, where can we find LEM conversion kits? Best price I've seen is on GB for $74.
 

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Thanks for the great pictures and instructions. Went together smoothly, other than the cocking piece wanting to move out of position. I did install a 5+6 detent plate for the safety, works great. I do recommend the 5+6 plate because its a cheap part ($10) and gives you a more positive feel when switching from safe to fire.
 

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BigBore, thanks for the write up. Correct me if i am wrong, but this will work for the HK45 as well correct? I was told no earlier. I have already installed the lem and just now found this post. IF it will work for the HK45 would I just simply have to use the safety control lever i took out earlier for the one i used in the lem kit? would that be all? thanks
 

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Yes it will work.

Just reuse your old Hammer Axle and Control Lever.

The safety works with the hook on the Control Latch and the notch in the Control Lever's axle.

The decocker works with the tab on the old sear, but I am not sure if using decocking with the LEM will cause damage to the gun or not, so I advise to NOT use the old sear. As long as you have the new sear installed you can not decock. The lever will move down but nothing will happen. I would also spend the $10 to get a 5+6 detent plate, makes safety feel more solid by getting rid of the decocking position.

Also note that older guns (USPs for sure) using newer style hammers with the old style catches will cause the weapon to fire when decocked. A hammer drop may have the same result. For safety sake be sure to get a new style catch if your LEM kit does not have one. HK sent me one free of charge. See image below if you have any questions.

 

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It shouldnt fire on decock or hammer drop because of the firing pin block. However, it is a layer of redundancy that should be there; so definite +1 to the above info which needs to be added to the OP on both of these USP LEM threads as the new kits are no longer coming with the right catch for the older USPs.
 

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Great 'how to'. I was able to do this successfully - with a 1/16 punch.

Used the 1/16 punch to hold back the spring while installing the sear -- just have to let it back gently so that it'll rest on the back part of the sear -- facing the hammer.

Purchased the kit from hk parts. net and also the V5/9 detent plate so there would be no down movement on the decock -- works great.

Trigger pull is amazing using the stock hammer spring -- now if I can only figure out how to take out some of the initial take up.
 

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Pretty sure this took me twice as long as going from V1 to LEM. But it works....

Then I threw in the LEM kit hammer spring to see how I like that.



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