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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry if this is a rookie question, but my V51 has been having some issues with failure to eject and doublefeed. Usually what happens is the brass is lodged between the bolt and the forward lip of the ejection port, with the receiver edge cutting almost down the middle of the case mouth. I've heard a couple of opinions on this, including the bolt assembly not retracting far enough under recoil and the stock Vector ejector not being right somehow. There is a noticeable gap, about 2mm, between the top of the ejector channel in the bolt and the top of the ejector when the bolt assembly is fully retracted and the cocking handle is locked back. Is this normal in an HK? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated, as always.
 

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Sounds like ejector is to low. Probably because of either the trigger pack being to low or the ejector itself is bent or modified. If the empty does not eject properly it and the next round in the mag fight for space. Not pretty.
If it's double feeding the bolt is moving back far enough to catch the next round in the mag, not likely.
Now, when you say double feed do you mean two rounds out of the mag trying to enter the chamber or do you mean live round and the empty?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's only stripping one round off the magazine, which is failing to chamber because it gets stuck against the brass that is lodged between the boltface and the ejection port in the receiver.

If the ejector is the problem, how do I fix it? I've heard of shimming the trigger pack, but that would mess up the selector alignment through the grip housing, right?

I can actually push the ejector up until the channel on the bolt with my finger no problem, but the spring it's on pulls it back down leaving that 2mm gap. Can that be adjusted perhaps? Thanks.
 

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Make sure the chamber is clean any oil residue will cause a spent case to stick and short stroke the cycling of the bolt.

Bill
 

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You don't want to shim the pack inside the grip housing, you want to shim the shelf the housing locates on.

When the gun is assembled can you push up on the trigger housing and move it?

Use a little cyanoacrylate to temporarily attach a shim made of pop can or thick paper or something to the top of the shelf. Install your lower assembly and operate the bolt to make sure the ejector still clears the bolt. If so, check that 2mm gap, it should be smaller.
That's a good sized gap. I'd start with a shim around .050 and check the result. After you shrink the gap and do a function check, go test fire it and see how it goes. If things work much better that's probably most of the problem. I like that gap to be as small as possible without impacting the bolt, which is indicated by wear on top of the ejector.

If it turns out that fixes it you know what you need to do. That glued shim is very temporary so get one of the good smiths on board to modify the shelf or the grip housing to correct the problem permenantly.

edit: Look at the ejector very well and try to determine if it's been modified in any way. If it's been ground down somewhere on the rear or front top then replacing it might take care of the problem. If you find evidence of home gunsmithing let me know, I have a couple of used factory ejectors and would be glad to send you one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the advice. Sure enough, the whole grip assembly has just a little play when fully assembled (damn ATF and their pushpin ban) and if I push up on the trigger itself the housing moves inside the grip too when assembled. Between these two tiny bits of movement the ejector moves up from nearly flush with the edge of the boltface (about 2mm gap in channel) to nearly touching the channel, maybe .2 or .3 mm gap (which is how it should be, I'm guessing?) As far as the ejector itself, it doesn't look modified, but I probably couldn't tell if it was. I'll be taking it to the range this weekend and see how it works out with some cardboard jammed in between the shelf and the housing. It looks like there's no moving parts there so I'm not worried about it coming loose and flying around, right?

If this completely solves the problem, who should I talk to about getting something welded in there? Would I have to ship the whole rifle or just the trigger pack? And I've seen some posts here about trigger jobs, it would be great to get that fixed too, like 6# or so. Right now It must be 14# and is extremely gritty. Who should I be talking to? OK I'm out of questions :)
 

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No, there are no moving parts in that area, not anymore anyway. Used to be where the auto sear was. Just put in your shim, make sure all is tight and test it.
To be honest about the repair, I'm not sure who does what to correct the problem. Others may know more.
Tradition and common sense tell you to modify the cheapest part which means that you should modify the lower housing. BUT, in this case, if that is done it will be mated to this gun and more than likely not usable on another. And, if you decide to change to a different style grip housing it won't work unless the same mods are done to it.
I'd go for having the shelf on the gun modified. That would be the best way to go. I'm not sure what the most popular way to fix it is but I fixed a real junker a few years ago myself by welding a shim in place and touching up the finish. One could add material to the area with a welder then shape it to the proper dimension. One could also use something like JB weld or some other epoxy to build up the area then grind it to shape.
Ask around the boards and you will get some good advice on it.
As far as smiths go I have used Jayson at Investment Grade Firearms to do most of my work. He's good but being such he is probably behind some.

Email [email protected] Phone 870-656-9840

Bill Springfield (bspring on the boards, he actually replied to this thread) can take care of that grunter trigger you have for a small fee. I've used him also, and he does very nice work. And he may also be able to help you with that shelf problem, especially if you just want to modify the trigger grip housing. http://www.hkweaponsystems.com/cgi-bin/forums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=007770

Adam Webber c/ps his own housings and may have good advice for fixing the problem. http://www.hkparts.net/

He also has some of the best deals going on parts.

Gordon Miller (gm on the boards) is a great guy and is a great source of anything HK. http://www.hkspecialist.net/index.htm

Any of these guys can help you in some fashion from parts to who can help fix your problem. Many, including myself, have delt with all of them and you can't go wrong. These are just a few of the best names in the HK world.

Edit to add: If you get a trigger job done the only thing most smiths need is the trigger group itself, not the whole gun.
 

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Just thought of the obvious. Is the gun a Vector factory made gun? If so, they have pretty good customer service. Send it in for warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the advice, hkshooterusp. It is a new factory Vector, but I think I'd rather epoxy the shelf than send it to the factory, if that's what I need. Since there's no moving parts I would think the epoxy would last forever. I'll contact Bill about the trigger too.
 

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squid ship driver are ya?

DDG-43 myself. But no ship driver. Super naval intelligence propulsion engineer.;)
 

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Just a thought, but a couple of layers of electricians tape on the top of the shelf near the lip might do your job for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It's definitely a trigger pack height problem. I shimmed it with some cardboard and it ran like a top for 60 rounds with very little fouling getting into the mag. I've also put a standard G3 locking piece in there instead of the Vector 50 degree (G3K, V51) piece. Not sure if that makes a difference for ejection, but it has softened felt recoil a bit. I guess an MSG90 buffer is next on my list. Those do fit in JLD A2 stocks, right? I'm sending the trigger pack to Bill Springfield for some TLC, he said he can help the ejector problem too. If it still needs tweaking when he's done with it I'll have to figure out something more permanent than cardboard! Electrical tape and epoxy, as have been suggested, both sound like good ideas. I'll let you all know how it turns out!
 

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Glad you figured it out. Go shoot!
 
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