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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tried searching multiple times but could not find it...
Would one of you mind pointing me to the tutorial thread
which shows how to swap out the Variant 1 detent plate to a Variant 3 detent plate?

Is the process the same for all USP and HK45 pistols?
I am looking to do this on a HK45C.

Thank you.
 

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There is none because it is so simple to do. I promise you, it will take longer to type this out than to do it, and I'm using cut and paste.
Same process for USP/C and HK45/C
Remove magazine.
Clear barrel.
Remove slide.
Lower the hammer all the way down and be sure to control the hammer as you lower it so it does not slam forward.
Look at the detent plate. See that little pin in there? Now, the detent plate is under slight spring tension so you need to control it as you remove it.
Take a toothpick or small punch and push out the pin until it just clears the plate.
Remove plate paying close attention to how it comes out.
Put the new plate back in the same way the old one came out.
Push back in the detent plate.
Oil lightly and you are done.
 

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Just a note to add to what Big Bore said.....
The V3 plate is the only one that's interchangeable between the USP and HK45/HK45c series. If you don't find one for the HK45c the USP V3 plate is the same.
 

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USP/HK45 Series Detent Plate Quick Swap by H&K 4 LIFE-

We will be performing a variant conversion on this USP .40 Custom Combat. The conversion demonstrated below is V1 to V9 (safety only), but going to V3 (decocker only) is performed in exactly the same manner only utilizing a different detent plate.



Step 1- Remove magazine and completely unload the pistol (this is always step one)

Step 2- Field strip pistol. Set aside slide with barrel and recoil assembly.

Step 3- Lower hammer. Pull trigger and gently lower the hammer with your thumb. DO NOT let the hammer fly forward under it's own force.

Step 4-
The only pin we will be moving is the Sear Axle (Part #24, 214101). The red arrow below indicates the Sear Axle. Note how the Sear Axle engages the notches in the top of the detent plate.



Step 5- Insert a punch down the channel in the frame that the ejector sits in. Use the punch to depress the Detent Slide (Part #36, 214105). You will feel this part under spring tension with the end of the punch. Pressing downward on this part will take spring tension off of the detent plate.



Step 6- With your thumb, depress the Sear Axle away from you until it clears the detent plate and is sitting flush with the frame. The Detent Plate can now be removed. It is not necessary to drift the Sear Axle any further then this. It is also safe to remove the punch (rest assured nothing will go flying out of the frame).



Step 7-
With the detent plate now removed, you will notice the Control Lever (Part #33, 214184) has lost spring tension and is pointing downwards. Also note Sear Axle now sitting flush with the frame.



Return the Control Lever to the neutral (center) position and insert the new detent plate. The channel in the detent plate fits into a groove on the control lever. With the Control Lever in the center position, it will line up properly like this...



Step 8-
Use the punch to once again depress the Detent Slide in the same manner as before. This will allow the Detent Plate to be lowered into position.

Step 9- With Detent Plate properly oriented, use your thumb to press the Sear Axle back towards you, causing it to engage the notches in the top of the Detent Plate. Push the Sear Axle until it is flush with the face of the Detent Plate. Remove the punch. The new Detent Plate is now installed.



Step 10- Check for proper function of the Control Lever (I.E. safety variants should have a working safety, decocker variants should decock, V1/2 should perform both functions)



Reassemble pistol, check function.
Done.



This post with pictures took a hundred times longer to create then to perform the actual conversion. :biggrin:

Disclaimer-
I am not responsible for the use or misuse of the information contained within this post. You are ultimately liable for any work you perform on your own pistol.
 

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This is some good info in this thread. I've been wanting to change my USP Expert from V1 to V9. Where is the best place to order the detent plate from?
 

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Thank you very much for this thread!

I'd shot IDPA a few times with the "house" gun...an HK45...instead of my usual competition gun, just to get the feel of using the pistol in such ways. On three different reloads, I inadvertently engaged the safety. I was caught by surprise, and stood there for a few seconds trying to figure out WTF was wrong with my weapon. I'll be going to V3, and will be much happier.
 

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Well, yeah, actually, but it's also a "hitchhiker's thumb". I can bend it back to almost 90 degrees. (My left does go that far. I used to shoot a lot of pool for extra money in college. I've been jokingly accused of using an illegal bridge. LOL)

When I rotate the weapon to accept the new magazine, my thumb tends to drift up in order to engage the slide release if the slide doesn't slam forward on its own. That action, coupled with my very large hands, drives the safety up. It's not a problem for my safety-less M&P Pro, and on my 1911, the safety is small enough and high enough not to be a problem. This gun is different. My greatest concern is that my wife needs to use the house gun, activates the safety inadvertently, and is defenseless.
 

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LOL. Her thumbs are opposable, though.

Her hands aren't abnormally large, either. I know you were joking, but she'd kill me if I didn't make sure that was understood. :)
 

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I'm also thinking about swapping out my V1 to V3. In addition to the detent plate, can I also purchase a replacement decocker lever made for the V3 that is not marked "S/F"?
 

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I'm also thinking about swapping out my V1 to V3. In addition to the detent plate, can I also purchase a replacement decocker lever made for the V3 that is not marked "S/F"?
Yes you can..I actually have some new and unused V3 unmarked levers available for $23shipped each if interested just PM me..
 
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