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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All,

I have a Vector V93 that is failing to fire. I can't replicate any sort of way to get it to always happen. It seems quite random. Anyways, the gun will be ready to fire, I pull the trigger, and the gun goes click. The hammer is audibly dropping so I assume it is getting reset. I eject the round and check the primer and there isn't even the faintest of mark on it...or anywhere on the back of the round. I can put the round back in the magazine and it will fire the next time.

Does anybody have a guess as to what might be causing this? Is it a weak spring in the trigger pack? Is it a weak firing pin spring? Does it maybe have something to do with the size of the rollers or locking piece?

Thanks!

EDIT: The bolt gap is .013 by the way.
 

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why even mess with it, or pour money into it, that may or may not be the problem? just contact VECTOR get a return authorization number, and have them fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm asking before I put any money into it. I have actually had the gun for years, and it has never really worked right ever since the first time I took it out and put 140 rounds through it perfectly. It has been back to Vector once, and they didn't fix the problem. I got annoyed and just threw it in the back of the safe for a while until I pulled it out today to go to the range. So it is out of warranty and it doesn't even seem like Vector is capable of fixing it properly anyways.
 

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Hey tomcon. Generally, we like to have more information than you provided in your first post in order to assist. You said the rifle worked perfectly the first time you shot it, right? Did anything change, other than the rifle getting dirty? Any replacement parts? Different trigger pack parts? Different magazine(s)? Do you clean the internals of the rifle, including the trunnion area where the rollers engage? What ammo are you shooting? Have you tried other ammo with any better success? Pics / vids also help tremendously.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I have gone through and cleaned the whole gun before shooting it each time. I take the whole bolt carrier group apart and clean the individual parts. I have the flute cleaning tool and the chamber face brush for cleaning those areas. When I sent it back to Vector the grip housing had lots of horizontal play in it. I suspected that may have been the problem. They replaced the grip housing, and it fits perfectly now with absolutely no wiggle or movement. Other than that, I have replaced the extractor spring due to an old problem I am going to describe next.

It used to fail to eject and the casing would get jammed really tight in the chamber. It took a lot of force to eject the spent casing. That force bent the extractor spring, and I had to get a new one and install it. Vector told me to switch over to steel case ammo for a while until the gun breaks in more. I thought that was kind of ridiculous since I get through 140 rounds of brass case ammo perfectly fine the first time I took it out, but I followed their advice. The steel case ammo ejects nicely. I haven't had a problem with that since I got it back.

I have 3 different types of magazines. I have the original aluminum 40 rounder that it came with, I have 3 MKE polymer 30 rounders, and 3 of the new Promag polymer 30 rounders. The failure to fire problem happens with all of the different types of magazines.

The first time I took the gun out I used the American Eagle .223 from Walmart. The next time I went out I used more of that and had problems. I also had the same problems with PMC Bronze .223, Wolf .223 steel case ammo, MFS .223 zinc plated steel case ammo, and some unbranded brass cased stuff that I bought at my gun range that came in a clear plastic bag. I don't have any recollection of firing any actual 5.56-rated ammo through this gun.

What kind of pictures would you suggest providing?
 

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Excellent information tomcon, thanks much! So the rifle is getting cleaned properly, and since you are cleaning the flutes and hitting the chamber face, you're in great shape there. That chamber face brush helps clean the roller pockets in the trunnion as well, so it sounds like we are working with a good clean gun.

You've used a variety of ammo with the same results, so we can probably rule out the ammo as well, although I've noticed both the PMC and Wolf are not that hot in my guns. I have not shot any MFS, but I'll bet it's not as hot as 5.56 ball, but I don't think that's the issue here. You've tried all mags and they don't change the issue either.

You know, I've seen an issue on my 23 / 53 / 93 guns when they get a little dirty from shooting full auto, that I see the exact same issue you are describing here...bang, bang, bang, click. I've figured out by watching the gun that the click is due to the bolt not fully closing, but closing enough to allow the hammer to fall and strike the firing pin, but the firing pin is back an 1/8 of an inch or so because the gun is out of battery, so it doesn't contact the round. You can watch for this checking the position of the carrier after each shot...you will see a gap through the ejection port. You have to see the carrier out of battery BEFORE you pull the trigger, because the hammer hitting the back of the carrier will push it closed and leave you scratching your head as to why the primer is untouched.

Since your gun is clean, I wonder if the recoil spring is up to par. Do you ever have problems getting the gun to feed the first round with a full magazine, or does it snap shut with authority? If the recoil spring is worn, that would cause roughly the same problem I have when my guns are dirty...a bolt group traveling forward without enough energy (because the dirt is slowing it down) to fully close. If the recoil spring is in good working order, then maybe the carrier is not traveling far enough to the rear to create enough force in the spring to send it forward all the way. You might try 100 rounds of M193 or M855 as a test.

Extraction and ejection is functioning as it should, so I think your trigger group is at the right height and geometry, but check the gap where the receiver and the trigger housing meet and ensure it is consistent along the housing...not higher in the front or back.

If the primer is untouched it could also be a slightly mushroomed firing pin at the hammer end. Make sure it's in good shape and the hammer end is not flared.

Does the carrier slide easily in the receiver when you are taking the gun apart, or does it stick?
 

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Good advice above, I would also suspect recoil spring.

The bit about this....

"but check the gap where the receiver and the trigger housing meet and ensure it is consistent along the housing...not higher in the front or back."

It's a rare clone I've seen where this gap is perfectly parallel. I usually see the grip frame low in the front and this is on perfectly working rifles. YMMV but I don't think I'd sweat this to much. The rifle ejects fine so like was said, the geometry is good enough to keep the rifle happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm going to pick up some M193 and give that a try. I will try to pay attention to see if the bolt is going to fully into battery. I have looked in the past and there has been no gap where I can see inside of the receiver. The ejection port is completely closed. Next time I take it apart I will look for a mushroomed firing pin too.

I don't ever have problems getting the gun to feed the first round of a full magazine. It snaps shut pretty hard. I don't think the recoil spring is weak. It's a bit of a workout to pull it back each time a round doesn't fire and I have to eject it to feed a new one.

As far as the grip frame is concerned, it looks pretty level to me. If I push/pull really hard on the trigger guard to get the grip frame to move, there is the smallest amount of movement to it. I'd say it is half a millimeter if that.
 
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