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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody! This is my first thread I'm starting!

I was looking to get a general consensus of what to lube 9X's with. My Vectors came with (what looked like) white lithium grease while my Coharies came dry, IIRC. I just got my SP89 clone back from Jeff (will post a thread on this weekend) and put AeroShell 22 grease on the rails and Rem Oil in/on the BCG and the FCG. The pistol ran just fine, very smoothly, and no FTE's or FTF's.

Does anyone here know about AeroShell 22 grease and if it is a good or bad lube for the rails. I think it's ok since it's only on the rails but if I'm wrong, please enlighten me.
 

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No grease. Clean that white crap out of there. Then oil and wet wipe clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks gents. Jeff said the AeroShell was ok, only on the rails, not on bolt head, chamber face, etc. I applied the AeroShell w a brush, so it's pretty thin. A coworker said the powder residue is gritty and clean the grease out after every usage. However, I've only been shooting 9X's since '06 and not nearly as often as any shooter would like, so I felt like I needed to ask.
 

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The only place I would use a grease is on a surface that didn't move or moved only slightly. In cold weather grease almost turns into a solid which is slightly less than desirable in a gun. I use SLIP 2000, CLP and other mystery snake oils sold as the end all cure for anything that ails ya... but no greases. My .035 cents (adjusted for Obaminflation)

 

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Liberal helpings of plain ol' Hoppe's 9 oil works for me. I don't bother with grease on rifles.
 

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For your "lubricating a firearm" consideration -- There is an age old adage for the M1 Garand rifle: "If it slides - grease it, if it rolls/rotates - oil it." Point being, if you have metal parts that slide back-and-forth on each other, consider using some sort of grease. If the parts under consideration for lubrication twist on each other or otherwise roll against each other, then use oil.

I personally use a firearms grease on all my handgun or long gun component part that "slide" against metal-to-metal.
 

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For your "lubricating a firearm" consideration -- There is an age old adage for the M1 Garand rifle: "If it slides - grease it, if it rolls/rotates - oil it." Point being, if you have metal parts that slide back-and-forth on each other, consider using some sort of grease. If the parts under consideration for lubrication twist on each other or otherwise roll against each other, then use oil.

I personally use a firearms grease on all my handgun or long gun component part that "slide" against metal-to-metal.
I use the M1 logic on all my guns. Hasn't failed me yet.
 

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For your "lubricating a firearm" consideration -- There is an age old adage for the M1 Garand rifle: "If it slides - grease it, if it rolls/rotates - oil it." Point being, if you have metal parts that slide back-and-forth on each other, consider using some sort of grease. If the parts under consideration for lubrication twist on each other or otherwise roll against each other, then use oil.

I personally use a firearms grease on all my handgun or long gun component part that "slide" against metal-to-metal.
This is my mantra also. I like Ballistol because when the vehicle evaporates it leaves a durable lubricant film (rollers, LP, carrier, bore) and a thin film of Tetra grease on the rails and bolt carrier rail interfaces. Plus Ballistol is good for corrosive ammo,copper deposits, powder residue without all the hullaballoo. Worked good for the "Jerry's" during WWII. Don't like the idea of steel sliding over steel non lubricated. Something about friction......
 

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royal purple 10 w - 40 in high fiction areas in my MKE 89K. Thing runs great with HK mags. Any lube is better than no lube
 

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Well whatever you do, don't get grease in the rollers. Not a place you want to get gummed up with crud buildup. Keep those things lightly oiled only.
 

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Well whatever you do, don't get grease in the rollers. Not a place you want to get gummed up with crud buildup. Keep those things lightly oiled only.
Interesting. Guess I've been doing my rollers within my PTR-32 incorrectly during the course of the last year. . . I've always applied a light coating of grease on them. Over a thousand rounds (300+ per shooting session) and never an issue. Nonetheless, I should heed my own advice, "...if it rolls/rotates - oil it." :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
How 'bout pig lard? Can I use that on the rails?? J/k

Seems that I've been using the M1 way of lubing with good results.
 

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How 'bout pig lard? Can I use that on the rails?? J/k

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It'll make it smell good when you shoot it. I know a guy with a biodesiel old mercedes station wagon and he burns the grease that the fast food joints put out back for fuel and DAYUM it smells like Long John Silvers when he drives it. Always makes me hungry!
 

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Sorry had a corny outbreak. Ive been using those little milsurp grease cans with the yellow caps on the bolt carrier of my c93 and k clone. I always clean after every outing and do use clp for the rollers.
 

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Whatever! But ,I have been using a very tiny dab of TETRA gun grease on each roller window for 10 years now and haven,t seen any roller window wear,worn rollers,worn locking piece or bolt gap loss of any kind. I live in florida and there is no FREEZING temps.The metal to metal contact of the rollers to trunion and rollers to the windows of the bolt head and to the LP are the main area,s of wear. I use TETRA on this area and wipe everything else down and mostly dry with CLP. Works flawless
 

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I too use Tetra on my AK's & never a problem, I also live in Florida where it's nice & toasty. I haven't shot my HK's since I started using Tetra, but the next time I shoot my PTR, & Vector, I will be using Tetra. As an oil, the SLIP 2000 EWL seems to work fine for my pistols. GARY N4KVE
 
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