[timeinspace]

What is the Difference between the H&K Grey SL8-1, Black SL8-1, & the Black SL8-6 ???

What is the Difference between...

the H&K Grey SL8-1, the Black SL8-1, & the Black SL8-6 ???

I have heard that some early (Grey?) models had some sort of deffects to them...


Anyone know what were the actual deffects and how to look or know for those possible deffects to see or know about them before the purchase ?


Also why three different models, and what is the difference between these three different model rifles, even though all three are supposedly the very same model rifle ???


And also on the New Black SL8-6, I see that some rifles have the writting on the Left side in a Black color and some are in a White color,
Like the Warning safety, Caliber, HK address, and the Made in Germany,
Why the two different colors ?
Would one possibly be a First Generation and the other a Second Generation, even though both are still the very same exact SL8-6 model rifles, if they are same exact ?


Thank you so much for your time & a clear explanation,
as well as the facts to those who know the actual facts & the truth...


; )

 

[swenk]

I dont think there ever was a black SL8-1 sold, only grey with dye jobs.
I just sold a SL8-6 that had all black lettering, and bought one that had white/red lettering. I dont think the colored letters are factory, just done at home. Dont know for sure but I am thinking its done just like all the red/white USP slides etc.
SL8-6 are factory black and have a different raised shorter sight rail and vented forearm, I think thats about the only difference.

 

[holshot36]

I dont think there ever was a black SL8-1 sold, only grey with dye jobs.
I just sold a SL8-6 that had all black lettering, and bought one that had white/red lettering. I dont think the colored letters are factory, just done at home. Dont know for sure but I am thinking its done just like all the red/white USP slides etc.
SL8-6 are factory black and have a different raised shorter sight rail and vented forearm, I think thats about the only difference.

I noticed some factory black SL8-6's that are actually engraved SL8-1 on the side and the serial # plates are silver my black SL8-6 has no engraving and just has SL8 on the side in the white and the serial # plate is black not silver.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

SL8-1: Grey, non-vented forearm, long (low-profile) polymer target rail with iron sights, standard s/n format.

Early SL8-6: Black, vented forearm, short (medium-profile) aluminum pic rail, marked SL8-1, s/n prefixed SL8.

Late SL8-6: Black, vented forearm, short (medium-profile) aluminum pic rail, marked SL8, s/n prefixed SL8-6, raised white letters on markings.

Yes, the SL8-1 suffered from the lower cracking although I do not know the specific details of the defect.

 

[holshot36]

SL8-1: Grey, non-vented forearm, long (low-profile) polymer target rail with iron sights, standard s/n format.

Early SL8-6: Black, vented forearm, short (medium-profile) aluminum pic rail, marked SL8-1, s/n prefixed SL8.

Late SL8-6: Black, vented forearm, short (medium-profile) aluminum pic rail, marked SL8, s/n prefixed SL8-6, raised white letters on markings.

Yes, the SL8-1 suffered from the lower cracking although I do not know the specific details of the defect.

do you by chance know where the lower would usually crack at? I also have a SL8-1

 

[timeinspace]

Swenk,

there is one now on GB for sale new in box and is clearly marked SL8-1 and is all black and is new in box, unaltered, so yes they are made,

on the SL8-6,
the White lettering versus the Black lettering I am currently seeing are on the New made current SL8-6 models,
all are new made in their original boxes, unfired & unaltered,
these are not home made job letterings,
these come like this from the factory,

just curious to know why, as they probably are a different Generation rifles,

wanted to know what differences if any they would have other than the colors of the writting on them, (personally I like it all black with the black writting)

???

 

[Chopstix Kid]

do you by chance know where the lower would usually crack at? I also have a SL8-1

IIRC, they cracked just in front of the BHO but my memory is fuzzy in my old age, lol.

Swenk,

there is one now on GB for sale new in box and is clearly marked SL8-1 and is all black and is new in box, unaltered, so yes they are made,

on the SL8-6,
the White lettering versus the Black lettering I am currently seeing are on the New made current SL8-6 models,
all are new made in their original boxes, unfired & unaltered,
these are not home made job letterings,
these come like this from the factory,

just curious to know why, as they probably are a different Generation rifles,

wanted to know what differences if any they would have other than the colors of the writting on them, (personally I like it all black with the black writting)

???

Correct, the white lettering is from the factory. I do not know what material the lettering is, but it's hard, REALLY hard. I did a conversion on one and the only thing that took it off was sanding... and the depth of the letters after you remove it is only around .005". So essentially, if you remove the white letters, the letters are gone completely.

Hardware-wise, there is no difference between the early SL8-6 (engraved letters only) and the late-models (white raised letters).

As with anything, changes are usually driven by the need to reduce production costs... but that's just speculation on my part.

 

[swenk]

Swenk,

there is one now on GB for sale new in box and is clearly marked SL8-1 and is all black and is new in box, unaltered, so yes they are made,

I think all SL8's are marked SL8-1, I personally have never seen one marked SL8-6.

 

[swenk]

Early SL8-6: .... marked SL8-1

Late SL8-6: ..... marked SL8

What he said... lol. I have never seen any SL8 marked SL8-6, doesnt make any sense but thats the way HK does it.
If its new and black, its an SL8-6 but wont be marked as such. My SL8-6 is marked SL8-1.

Good to know about the factory white letters. I was guessing home job because the one I just bought has both white and red letters I think he did the red himself.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

What he said... lol. I have never seen any SL8 marked SL8-6, doesnt make any sense but thats the way HK does it.
If its new and black, its an SL8-6 but wont be marked as such. My SL8-6 is marked SL8-1.

Good to know about the factory white letters. I was guessing home job because the one I just bought has both white and red letters I think he did the red himself.

Yep, early SL8-6 with home-job painting... both the red and white.

I suspect the changes were made to accomodate the various exported models. With the new layout, they can use the same molds for all country models... the only thing they would have to change is the magwell mold, which I am sure is a swappable insert... one for low-cap and another for hi-cap.

 

[swenk]

Chopstix Kid, sending you a PM about a differnt SL8 magwell question.

Hopefully we got all the questions answered. One thing I have noticed is some people's lack of love for grey SL8 and USC rifles that were dyed black. They are really not inferior at all. The USC's I have dyed are ofter a nicer deeper black than some of the factory black from HK. If you find a good deal on a grey SL8-1 dont hesitate to grab it.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

Chopstix Kid, sending you a PM about a differnt SL8 magwell question.

Hopefully we got all the questions answered. One thing I have noticed is some people's lack of love for grey SL8 and USC rifles that were dyed black. They are really not inferior at all. The USC's I have dyed are ofter a nicer deeper black than some of the factory black from HK. If you find a good deal on a grey SL8-1 dont hesitate to grab it.

Agreed, a properly dyed SL8 or USC is and excellent alternative to the more expensive factory black variants. I get a lot of dyed SL8's for conversion and the dye penetration is more than deep enough to handle minor scuffs and scrapes.

 

[timeinspace]

the new black rifles on the body are marked just SL8,

but right next to the serial number it is marked SL8-6 followed by the serial number...

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=152810738


hope this helps.


oh and reason i had asked these questions,
is that i just located the early Grey SL8-1 near me for $1199.00 at a gun shop for sale, plus tax and papers.

it is like new.

so was thinking if i should get it, or spend a little more and get the newer black rifle which i can get for $1950.00

so if they are same exact other than color i think i may go with that Grey,

what do you think ???

 

[Chopstix Kid]

the new black rifles on the body are marked just SL8,

but right next to the serial number it is marked SL8-6 followed by the serial number...

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=152810738


hope this helps.


oh and reason i had asked these questions,
is that i just located the early Grey SL8-1 near me for $1199.00 at a gun shop for sale, plus tax and papers.

it is like new.

so was thinking if i should get it, or spend a little more and get the newer black rifle which i can get for $1950.00

so if they are same exact other than color i think i may go with that Grey,

what do you think ???

Exactly what I said earlier in your thread...

SL8-1: Grey, non-vented forearm, long (low-profile) polymer target rail with iron sights, standard s/n format.

Early SL8-6: Black, vented forearm, short (medium-profile) aluminum pic rail, marked SL8-1, s/n prefixed SL8.

Late SL8-6: Black, vented forearm, short (medium-profile) aluminum pic rail, marked SL8, s/n prefixed SL8-6, raised white letters on markings.

Yes, the SL8-1 suffered from the lower cracking although I do not know the specific details of the defect.

$1200 for a mint SL8-1 is a fair price.

 

[Blast]

Not a 100% but I was thinking the 6's had a refined trigger pack over the 1's. Also on the newer 6's it seems like left side reciever where all the hard points are in the polymer has been smoothed out better, not so bumpy as the older ones I've seen.

 

[Flying cow of death]

1,200 is reasonable for a SL8-1.
If you are going to get it converted, why not go gray. It's means some extra cash for the work--you're already milling the receiver if you want a double-stack setup. Other than color, as noted by Chopstix, the only substantial difference will be the rail, unless this has been changed by the previous user.
But if you really want black, you can find a SL8-6 for around 1600 new--you just have to be extra patient and willing to "shop" a few months. I saw one go on GB for 1,624 in Nov. and during the summer for 1,500. Those prices show up, but it means waiting.

 

[timeinspace]

actually was just going to leave it as is, if i got that Grey colored rifle for $1199.00,
with no conversions of any kind,
i even like that original grey color it came in, but do love the black more,
and ofcourse it being newer and perhaps better with the original box and such for a few hundred more the new black may be the one to go with if i can find one for about $1600.00...

so thats why i wanted to know what differences they would have other than the colors,

where exactly did the Grey rifles crack, at what point or exact area i should look for ?


thank you to all for the help, advice and all the input with the facts.

 

[HKPB]

where exactly did the Grey rifles crack, at what point or exact area i should look for ?

At the front of the buttstock/lower receiver, near the mag well pin. See here for details:

http://www.sminnick.com/gun/sl8crack.html

 

[marko]

I had an early one and the bolt hold open after last round was a problem, I sent it to HK and they replaced the bolt with one that didn't have the angled lug, so is that a G36?

I dyed mine black and then also noticed that the lower cracked in front of the bolt hold open. There was lots of talk on this way back when and just did a recomended epoxy job that worked just fine. There was also some guys not getting warranty if they dyed it, not sure if true. I also didn't want to send in the whole thing, just to have it returned and with no clear fixes at the time, have a new one crack. It never cracked again, and many also ran as is as the crack is not a stress or function area, but the bolt catch hits there. Not good but not so bad. I then went to SW lower with US made bolt and all is well. Lower is now gone and Chopstix is working his magic.

 

[timeinspace]

wow, thanks a whole bunch to everyone, you guys saved me from making a big mistake earlier today,

with this knowledge i went to the shop today prepared to actually buy it at $1199.00 plus tax and papers,

but i asked them to take it apart and was confident that it would not be cracked since its a very reputable shop and they are an HK dealer and know their stuff,
and also figured what are the chances of it being cracked the same way since it was near mint and really was like new...

well, to my surprise it did have that very same crack as pictured in the above link, at the very same exact spot,
and though i was very upset about not getting the rifle and still am since i wanted one real bad and the price was sweet and the rifle was near mint and came with all the accessories and a manual,

but am very glad that at least i knew what to look for and it actually had this very same exact crack in that spot as you guys warned me of,

even the shop owner was surprised and upset since they never took it apart to check,
and said they would send it to HK,

so what will HK do, repair it or replace the entire back end section in the same Grey color, and will it be an updated more reinforced part ???

thank you so much to all, to say the least...

fair to say that it seems all these early Grey model SL8 rifles, will sooner or later have this same exact damage apparently at some point in their life.


: )