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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a vector mp5 that is a jam-o-matic, rarely get thru a magazine without some malfunction. tried new extractor several extractor springs, ejector lever was the latest part I put into it, tried all kinds of ammo cleaned it more times that I can count, mags are all hk my understanding is that all the parts are German with the exception of the receiver, just tired a screwing with it. if I could send it off and they could make it work that would be fine but don't want to keep dumping money into a turd. not fair and I wouldn't consider just dumping it, but I feel stuck. I like everything about the gun other than it won't work, pretty frustrating to say the least. vector is out of business if I had a contact to someone who works on these that would be reasonably priced, I would send it off.

if you look closely at the chamber area you can see a round below the spent casing and above the magazine.

 

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with a spent casing not ejecting clear of the gun that that looks like it might be the ejector issue, as the ejector is not fully filling the slot or is not centered on the bolt slot to make a good solid contact on the back of the empty case to eject it out of the gun.

sometimes it's called "stove piping", as the empty case doesn't fully ejector from the gun

try this, slowly pull the charging hand back while you eyeball the ejector port, the ejector should fully fill the slot on the bolt and in the center of the slot, there shouldn't be the slightest of gap in the slot and the ejector should be dead center of the slot, not right or to the left side of the slot
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
with a spent casing not ejecting clear of the gun that that looks like it might be the ejector issue, as the ejector is not fully filling the slot or is not centered on the bolt slot to make a good solid contact on the back of the empty case to eject it out of the gun.

sometimes it's called "stove piping", as the empty case doesn't fully ejector from the gun

try this, slowly pull the charging hand back while you eyeball the ejector port, the ejector should fully fill the slot on the bolt and in the center of the slot, there shouldn't be the slightest of gap in the slot and the ejector should be dead center of the slot, not right or to the left side of the slot
I tried that but there is play between the extractor and the slot. it looks like it is in the center with my eyes but I probably have no idea what I'm looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sell at loss. Buy legit HK. Reflect on spending redundantly. Move on.

Buy once, cry once.
not sure anyone would want this after I disclosed that it works about 10 rounds at a time on a good day. and would have no idea what I could even price it at. with all the videos on the hk weak extractor springs not too sure I would want to go back to an mp5. love the feel and looks of the gun but I want it too to run like my Glocks eating any and everything.
 

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I tried that but there is play between the extractor and the slot. it looks like it is in the center with my eyes but I probably have no idea what I'm looking at.
the ejector is located in the trigger group and come up into the slot located in the bottom of bolt.........that is what kicks the empty shell casing out of the gun. the extractor just pulls the empty shell casing out of the chamber and holds the empty casing on the bolt
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the ejector is located in the trigger group and come up into the slot located in the bottom of bolt.........that is what kicks the empty shell casing out of the gun. the extractor just pulls the empty shell casing out of the chamber and holds the empty casing on the bolt
I know that part sorry should have been clearer, I can stick a .035 feeler gauge between the head bolt slot and the extractor lots of space there. I considering taking my old extractor and building up the sides with my tig welder to see if that cures the problem, I can see now what you are talking about it not hitting the case dead center, thus causing a jam bending the extractor spring making it loose and compounding the problem, at this point I have nothing to lose.
 

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I know that part sorry should have been clearer, I can stick a .035 feeler gauge between the head bolt slot and the extractor lots of space there. I considering taking my old extractor and building up the sides with my tig welder to see if that cures the problem, I can see now what you are talking about it not hitting the case dead center, thus causing a jam bending the extractor spring making it loose and compounding the problem, at this point I have nothing to lose.
I would not recommend welding things inside of a chamber, that while 9mm, is still considered violent via the design action (roller locking delayed blowback) and may cause worse damage to occur.
 

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not sure anyone would want this after I disclosed that it works about 10 rounds at a time on a good day. and would have no idea what I could even price it at. with all the videos on the hk weak extractor springs not too sure I would want to go back to an mp5. love the feel and looks of the gun but I want it too to run like my Glocks eating any and everything.
Oh believe me, someone will want it. Some folks are just so ate up with the illusion of a “deal” that they will roll the dice on it anyways. A lot of folks just can’t help themselves.
 

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I had the same problem with my Bobcat after replacing everything it still didn't run. The problem turned out to be the
shell deflector was set back to far there was a gap between the bolt and the deflector so it would deflect the empty back in instead of out.
 

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Disclose the issue and list it for sale with a clean conscience. Get a HK or DT - you'll lose some money on the sale but end up with a better product that you'll be much happier with. Plus with the value of the time that you'd continue to put into it to try and fix it, money ahead selling.
 

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I know that part sorry should have been clearer, I can stick a .035 feeler gauge between the head bolt slot and the extractor lots of space there. I considering taking my old extractor and building up the sides with my tig welder to see if that cures the problem, I can see now what you are talking about it not hitting the case dead center, thus causing a jam bending the extractor spring making it loose and compounding the problem, at this point I have nothing to lose.
He didn't say anything about the position of the extractor in the bolt head, he's talking about the position of the ejector lever in the slot in the bottom of the bolt head. When you pull back the charging handle, look through the ejection port and observe the slot in the bottom of the bolt head. When the ejector begins to show at the front of the bolt head face it should be located completely up inside the slot and centered inside the slot. If it's off to one side, especially so for the outside or left side of the slot, or if it doesn't come completely up inside the slot, leaving a huge gap at the top, it won't eject empties properly.
I like to make sure there isn't slop in the pivot point of the ejector on the trigger pack. To do this I squeeze the ears together that hold the axle for the ejector until it moves freely but is guided very true with as little side to side wiggle as possible.
Something I've also made sure of in my clones is to be sure they all use the most current design ejector lever. The older G3 looking lever isn't as reliable as the newer design and a lot of the older/early clones used the old lever. Simply changing this part usually automatically makes the arm function better.

You said the best you can tell all of the part but the receiver are German. Does this include the bolt head and any/all extractors you've tried?

If you decide to give repair a chance Jeff @ PCS, as recommended above, is an excellent choice. He can look it over and give you an estimate for the recommended repairs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
He didn't say anything about the position of the extractor in the bolt head, he's talking about the position of the ejector lever in the slot in the bottom of the bolt head. When you pull back the charging handle, look through the ejection port and observe the slot in the bottom of the bolt head. When the ejector begins to show at the front of the bolt head face it should be located completely up inside the slot and centered inside the slot. If it's off to one side, especially so for the outside or left side of the slot, or if it doesn't come completely up inside the slot, leaving a huge gap at the top, it won't eject empties properly.
I like to make sure there isn't slop in the pivot point of the ejector on the trigger pack. To do this I squeeze the ears together that hold the axle for the ejector until it moves freely but is guided very true with as little side to side wiggle as possible.
Something I've also made sure of in my clones is to be sure they all use the most current design ejector lever. The older G3 looking lever isn't as reliable as the newer design and a lot of the older/early clones used the old lever. Simply changing this part usually automatically makes the arm function better.

You said the best you can tell all of the part but the receiver are German. Does this include the bolt head and any/all extractors you've tried?

If you decide to give repair a chance Jeff @ PCS, as recommended above, is an excellent choice. He can look it over and give you an estimate for the recommended repairs.
ok that makes sense, there is some slop or side to side movement at the pivot point I will tighten that up and see if that helps it does appear that the ejector goes to the top of the bolt slot. thanks for your help.
 
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