[gorenut]

I found the thread yesterday but forgot to save it. Now I can't find it at all. Someone posted all the changes they did through out the years.

Mine is marked AA so it'd be counted as 2000. I want to check and see if my USP has all the upgrades H&K has done to USPs.

 

[cobrap]

Here's a copy from a post last week!

1993: Original USP9 and .40.

1994: Reduced the slide weight by 1.1 oz.

1994-95: Change to a polygonal rifled barrel (Prior barrels were standard land and groove)

1994-95: Change trigger transfer bar.

1994-95: Change recoil guide rod to a "captured spring version".

1995: Change trigger mechanism.

1995-96: Add rubber spur to hammer.

1995-96: Change angle on slide lock.

2000: Add locking feature to hammer strut support.

2001: Converted captive recoil spring retainer from c-clip to machined end on USP Compacts.

 

[Forgetfull]

Didn't they do something in the early 2000's that helped stop breaking firing pins?

 

[ETCP]

I belive it was in 2005 for the firing pin change.

 

[cobrap]

What's funny is, I've heard 3 different years on the firing pin issue. 2001, 2003, 2005. Big Bore, where are you? You know the answer to that!
But, I have read in a couple of sites, that "some" older firing pins were prone to breakage. And that a new upgrade pin alone, would not fix the problem.
Takes a few parts to solve the isssue.
I will look again for that info and post the site. Recommend snap caps on all dry fires (new or older guns)! That will solve the problem!
Going to research now!

Edit: HK did redesign the USP firing pins in 2005. They did not redesign them because they were made with bad metal, they redesigned them with more rounded edges to help eliminate breakage. Although it wasn't an epidemic, HK felt that they were having to replace enough of them under warranty that they should redesign them stronger. When upgrading to the newer firing pin, the firing pin block and firing pin block spring also have to be changed as they are different (same as P2000). I talked to Travis at HK today and ordered the parts to update my KF date code USP 45. I have an AB date code USP 45 that I will upgrade at a later date. The parts did not cost that much and if you have the know how to do it yourself, it will only take about 15 minutes or so to replace all those parts. Although what I stated in earlier posts was not totally wrong, I just wanted to get the proper info out on this subject.
202624 Firing pin (new style)
214190 Firing pin spring
209313 Firing pin block (new style)
209296 Firing pin block spring (new style)
980838 Roll pins (not a bad idea to install new ones and have extra)

I found this post under our forum!

 

[gorenut]

"2001: Converted captive recoil spring retainer from c-clip to machined end on USP Compacts."

What did this enhance? Thanks for all the help!

 

[AWD]

"2001: Converted captive recoil spring retainer from c-clip to machined end on USP Compacts."

What did this enhance? Thanks for all the help!

Ease of assembly.

 

[gorenut]

Ease of assembly.

Again, thanks for all the help. I just got into the world of H&Ks. I traded an old P226 with 1 mag for a like new USP 40 with 4 mags and living it (especially because the P226 cost me about $580).

 

[chuck s]

When did HK make the LEM trigger available?

I don't recall the LEM trigger being available in the USP series back 15 or so years ago when I had a USP45c. Found the DA/SA trigger to be heavy and the "cocked-and-locked" feature to be clumsy (compared to a good M1911). Sold the pistol not that long thereafter and went with the SIG P220 without the needless external safety.

Via this website I picked up that I could convert an HK pistol to LEM at my desk and had a chance to pickup a barely used USP9c in trade. Conversion to LEM was straight forward but not entirely satisfactory until I picked up the springs for Light LEM. I'd probably still have my original USP45c if Light LEM had been available (or I'd known about it) back then. Right now I'm waiting for HK to deliver the parts to make my new HK45c LEM into Light LEM.

-- Chuck

 

[H&K 4 LIFE]

As I understand it, the problems with the original firing pin breakages were directly associated with excessive dry-fire of the pistol.

 

[gorenut]

As I understand it, the problems with the original firing pin breakages were directly associated with excessive dry-fire of the pistol.

Does this have any relevance to dry firing with a snap cap? Just curious because I always dry fire with snap caps, except for striker fired and revolvers.

 

[Forgetfull]

Does this have any relevance to dry firing with a snap cap? Just curious because I always dry fire with snap caps, except for striker fired and revolvers.

Snap caps are fine. HK recommends them. The issue with dry firing without snap caps is that the FP is stopped by the FP block. This creates a stress point that caused issues a while ago.

When shooting ammo or snap caps the firing pin is stopped by the primer like it was originally designed to do.

 

[H&K 4 LIFE]

Does this have any relevance to dry firing with a snap cap? Just curious because I always dry fire with snap caps, except for striker fired and revolvers.

No it does not because the snap cap occupies the space where a live primer usually sits, thus preventing over travel of the firing pin and FP spring.

I only felt the need to comment to this effect for the people who own older USP's. If you do, I do not feel that lacking the upgraded FP is a big deal. When dry firing use snap caps whenever possible and keep empty chamber dry fire to a minimum and there should be no issues with the older design.

 

[VegasRaptor]

Hello everyone, I am new to the forum however not new to firearms. I work at a rental range in Las Vegas and have been in the firearms industry for over 10 years, enthusiast for 30. I own a lot of Glocks and a VP9 and VP9 SK but recently got into HK USP. I lucked out and scored a couple USPs Variant 2 on gun broker. They are both police trade-ins, one date code AG (2006) I'm guessing it was never issued as it appears brand new and the other KF (1995) about 90% appears to have been shot a bit but frame is flawless, no holster wear. I've been training with both and they're flawless. The KF seems to have a much smoother trigger in DA/SA. I have a few questions and you all seem very knowledgeable. After reading the quoted post I noticed the KF doesn't have many of the updates, I'm considering purchasing all of the update parts except the hammer and slide lock as I like it going into battery on a fresh mag. My concern is losing the smoothness of the trigger. As these are carry guns I need 100% reliability. I have received input from my armorers but I figured it would be a good idea to run it by you folks. I will be replacing recoil and extractor springs just for piece of mind. Also I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

ETA: I'm planning on updating firing pin and related components. Thoughts please.

Here's a copy from a post last week!

1994-95: Change to a polygonal rifled barrel (Prior barrels were standard land and groove)

- Both have a polygonal barrels

1994-95: Change trigger transfer bar.

- How can I tell which trigger bar it has? KF has significantly less trigger creep than AG and I would hate to lose that. How much reliability is sacrificed by keeping old trigger bar?

1994-95: Change recoil guide rod to a "captured spring version".

- Not concerned about this, should I be?

1995: Change trigger mechanism.

- I dont want to lose the smoothness of the trigger, am I sacrificing reliability

1995-96: Add rubber spur to hammer.

- Should I be concerned?

1995-96: Change angle on slide lock.

- Nope, if I could find the old revision I would put it in the updated gun. It's great going into battery with fresh mag.

2000: Add locking feature to hammer strut support.

- Reliability issue?

 

[TooSixy-closed]

Hello everyone, I am new to the forum however not new to firearms. I work at a rental range in Las Vegas and have been in the firearms industry for over 10 years, enthusiast for 30. I own a lot of Glocks and a VP9 and VP9 SK but recently got into HK USP. I lucked out and scored a couple USPs Variant 2 on gun broker. They are both police trade-ins, one date code AG (2006) I'm guessing it was never issued as it appears brand new and the other KF (1995) about 90% appears to have been shot a bit but frame is flawless, no holster wear. I've been training with both and they're flawless. The KF seems to have a much smoother trigger in DA/SA. I have a few questions and you all seem very knowledgeable. After reading the quoted post I noticed the KF doesn't have many of the updates, I'm considering purchasing all of the update parts except the hammer and slide lock as I like it going into battery on a fresh mag. My concern is losing the smoothness of the trigger. As these are carry guns I need 100% reliability. I have received input from my armorers but I figured it would be a good idea to run it by you folks. I will be replacing recoil and extractor springs just for piece of mind. Also I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

ETA: I'm planning on updating firing pin and related components. Thoughts please.

Try to separate or highlight your questions from within the post that you quoted. It's confusing to read to say the least.

 

[VegasRaptor]

Try to separate or highlight your questions from within the post that you quoted. It's confusing to read to say the least.

Sir, a highlight option was not available. I used BOLD and UNDERLINED. Does this work better?

- Matt

 

[PC7]

I would just run them as they are.
The only thing I would do is use a snap cap during dry fire, as they have the old style firing pin.

 

[Edsel]

I found the thread yesterday but forgot to save it. Now I can't find it at all. Someone posted all the changes they did through out the years.

Where is that thread, anyway?

Couldn’t find it, either.

Wanted to see if there was mention of the CB date codes not being embossed in the slide anymore...