HKPRO Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What is the best or fastest way to clean the corners behind the chamber where the bolt hits on a HK-91 or clone? I sprayed some Naptha in there and it really softened it up, but it's hard to get to. I am concerned about using a long small flat screwdriver and a piece of rag. I bought a chamber brush and the square black plastic brush from HK Parts but it did not get it clean enough and it was effecting my bolt gap. Any tricks would be appreciated. thanks, ken
 

·
H&K Certified Armorer
Joined
·
8,216 Posts
If it's super thick and hardened, use an eye dropper to apply a generous amount of bore cleaner and let is soak over night. Then go at it with a dental pick. Once you have it all broken free, use the chamber face brush to get the rest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
228 Posts
I soak a rag in a strong cleaner, wrap it around my finger, and reach up through the mag well and start scrubbing. You'll get everything but a tiny part of the corners which can be gotten with either a toothpick, a q-tip, or a dental pick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,734 Posts
I soak a rag in a strong cleaner, wrap it around my finger, and reach up through the mag well and start scrubbing. You'll get everything but a tiny part of the corners which can be gotten with either a toothpick, a q-tip, or a dental pick.
+1 ,I call it finger f***ing the trunion area.liberally LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
571 Posts
I think routine moderate cleaning is good maintenance practice. That said, i have seen plenty of DOD weapons thag were scrubbed out of tolerance. I think in some circumstances too much cleaning can be a bad thing.

Imo the best way to solve the need for excessive cleaning is to prevent the need for it, using good preventative maintenance habits.

This isnt intended to be slam on the op. I dont know how it got that way in the first place.
 

·
H&K Certified Armorer
Joined
·
8,216 Posts
I've learned the hard way.... Shoot the guns dry and use the chamber brush on a cordless drill at the lower speed. After 1000 rounds, I can get an MP5 spotless in about 15 minutes including the bolt group. Remoil on the bolt and bore help get them clean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,251 Posts
I've learned the hard way.... Shoot the guns dry and use the chamber brush on a cordless drill at the lower speed. After 1000 rounds, I can get an MP5 spotless in about 15 minutes including the bolt group. Remoil on the bolt and bore help get them clean.
Hell yeah... the E&L chamber face brush and rod mounted up in a cordless drill. Just flare the bristles out a bit and let it rip. Clean as a whatzat in minutes... then gooch the whole thing in a dunk tank to rinse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
If you do not have a dunk tank..

I soak the area with BreakFree. If you do not have the H&K brush then I use my fingers, then later a couple of big patches on a slotted tip.

This gets the bit chunks out.

Some times I give the H&K a whore bath, hosing everything down, first with Break Free, let it set for an hour or two, then again with Birchwood Casey Gun scruber, a time or three. After using the Gun Scrubber you must go back and re-oil everything with Break Free.

If you have shot the rifle a bunch, a quick whore bath, including the re-oil will keep you up and running durring a high volume school or a "real deal".

The thing with BreakFree is, if you keep the "gun parts" always wet with BreakFree, the Carbon does not ever get "real" hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
If you keep a H&K in standby ready, say in your trunk, behind the seat, in the house, garage, ie where ever, here is what I do.

I spray the inside of the reciever, the bolt carrier, and down into the trigger group woith a liberal anount of E&L Gun Lube.

This is a Graphite lube that dries in place. I work the action a few times to be sure I do not have it on too thick.

This stuff stays in place FOREVER. Water will not wash it off, including heavy rain...
Five years later this lube will still be in place.
The H&K will shoot for hundreds of rounds with just this spray lube.
It is perfect for a grab and go gun.

You can also apply liquid lubes on top of it, it will soften it up a little, but it does not gum up.

Gun Scrubber will remove it.

I have been using this stuff for over 30 years.

E&L Gun Lube

E&L MFG Co. Inc.

Cave Creek AZ

602-488-2598
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Wow, thanks. I'll get the E&L chamber brush and rod and their dry lube. I like the idea of a grab and go gun. The only place I had a problems are the corners, the Naptha softens it right up and will not hurt forends or anything. I just did not like using a long metal tool with a rag to clean it. I did not want to take a chance on scratching the back face of the chamber. All the tricks sound great. Thanks, Ken
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,845 Posts
I have use a small lab size ultrasonic cleaner at times to clean bolt groups and MAC 10s (why a MAC 10 needed to be that clean is another discussion ;-), however, I typically use one of two version of a "dunk" tank or "parts washer" , unless just using the "Whore Bath" like NE450No2 covered nicely, with better language than I ever could ;-).

The shop has the standard 20 gallon parts washer filled with a 140F+ flash point (Flash point - Wikipedia) parts washer fluid that is solvent based, not water based (this fluid is really highly refined mineral spirits that has the lighter factions removed to raise the flash point from 104F of mineral spirits to over 140F). A 20 gallon parts washer is $99 at Harbor Freight but the pumps are typically only rated for water based solvents and don't last long with the mineral spirit type solvents. While a lot of people have, would recommend not use odorless mineral spirits (flash point 104F to 120F depending on type) inside a closed space due to the risk of fire from vapor build up. Menard's in Indiana has been carrying the solvent based parts washer fluid, along with some auto parts stores (not the major chains though).


The portable "cleaning" tank to use way from the shop or when at home, is a tray from Lowels, made to mix mortar in, to which I ad a gallon two of high vapor pressure parts washing solvent from gallon paint cans (which work fine just as is for cleaning smaller internal parts) and brush until nominally clean. I then have a pint bottle with a spout to flood/rinse the bore and chamber with. Blow or drip dry as need and then lube with Break Free. Note have used a few percent Break Free or ATF in the solvent to help clean and leave an oily film. A few photos at Gun Cleaning


Cleaning Pan w/o Solvent Added


Cleaning Pan and Drain Rack



Cleaned Parts with Break Free Draining Off (Excess Break Free can be added to the solvent)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,410 Posts
+1 for Joe. another tip......clean immediately after done shooting for the day. Put that chamber face brush on a cleaning rod, chuck it in your cordless drill.........and away we go!
Dj
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
If you keep a H&K in standby ready, say in your trunk, behind the seat, in the house, garage, ie where ever, here is what I do.

I spray the inside of the reciever, the bolt carrier, and down into the trigger group woith a liberal anount of E&L Gun Lube.

This is a Graphite lube that dries in place. I work the action a few times to be sure I do not have it on too thick.

This stuff stays in place FOREVER. Water will not wash it off, including heavy rain...
Five years later this lube will still be in place.
The H&K will shoot for hundreds of rounds with just this spray lube.
It is perfect for a grab and go gun.

You can also apply liquid lubes on top of it, it will soften it up a little, but it does not gum up.

Gun Scrubber will remove it.

I have been using this stuff for over 30 years.

E&L Gun Lube

E&L MFG Co. Inc.

Cave Creek AZ

602-488-2598
Thanks for the info, I looked them up online and called them and ordered a bunch. The 602 number is not correct, it is a private residence in Arizona. The number from the link is 541-874-2137. But they were really nice and answered alot of questions. It all ships Monday. Ken
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,514 Posts
I'm often puzzled by folks who shoot HK's often then still insist they are hard to clean. There have been many good ideas posted here that will keep your HK clean and running well as well as make them easier to clean. Once upon a day I finger fkd my guns too but then got hooked up with the chamber face brush. Since then it takes me less time to clean my HK type rifles than any of my other guns besides a bolt action. Today I average about ten minutes per weapon from start to finish and close inspection will not find crud or mud in my guns. I use Balistol and electronics cleaner or brake cleaner to clean and lube my own. I'm intrigued by this E&L lube someone mentioned though. I may have to read up on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Call E&L and talk to the guy about it. I was worried about a rust preventitve once it's really clean with brake clean, gun scrubber or Naptha and that's not graphite, but he said after you apply it you can oil a patch or whatever and wipe over it and it will suck it in like a spnge and you'll have both. I'll have to try both ways and if any of ya'll try it please post your results/thoughts. That can of Graphite Dry spray lube is only $7.99 and their #590 kit for $24 has the chamber brush and the brush for behind the chamber and the knurled 15" rod too. He said to do it by hand and not use a drill probably because some folks would go crazy with it, but like the guys said flair the bristles first then just go slow and easy. And that 10-minute clean I'm sure is very doable.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,514 Posts
Yeah, I'm not sure where the benefit is if one has to use oil along with the lube to keep things from rusting up. Just oil it and be done with it. And I already take about ten minutes to clean.
I've used dry lubes before but only in very particular places like bolt actions and airguns. And I agree with him, I do not use a drill with the chamber face brush. In my opinion since it's stainless steel it would be way to aggressive so I only use mine by hand. Comes out clean every time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,845 Posts
Can't clean mine in 10 minutes, would not be long enough to listen to a few songs and put away the ammo and empty brass ;-).

Besides typically have an evil AR or M16 that needs to be cleaned also .....
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top